INDUSTRY FOCUS: DENIM
Even Denim Experts Need New Approaches to Their Blues
Seasoned denim experts must continue to learn throughout their careers in order to ensure the relevance of their brands over time. They know that true innovation in the industry requires blending their experiences with fresh knowledge.
Successful navigation of the denim industry lies not only in creating beautiful designs but also in continuing to pursue a lifelong education in the business. Experts who are moving the needle in denim making and shifting toward true positive change are now looking at who is making their goods, what types of products they are creating, when these goods will deliver the most-effective solutions, where the items are made, why the garments should be made and how their production will impact people and planet. Those in the know in the denim industry are approaching their craft supported by their own expertise while remaining open to learning from others.
California Apparel News asked denim-industry professionals: What lesson have you recently learned that left a deep impression or shifted your perspective regarding denim making?
Wilson Avalos
President
The Common Link
Our industry is driven by an economy that promotes overconsumption and waste, which demands a shift in mindset from all actors.
As stakeholders, we have the responsibility to raise consumer awareness about the environmental and social impacts of their choices. This includes encouraging conscious consumption habits like buying less and prioritizing high-quality, durable garments.
True sustainability extends beyond greenwashing marketing. It requires transparency from all actors regarding ethical sourcing, fair labor practices and a smart use of resources.
By focusing on producing timeless, high-quality pieces, we can minimize waste and foster a more responsible fashion industry.
Selen Baltaci
Marketing Manager
Calik Denim
With the changing speed of the world, innovations in our lives are happening at a tremendous pace in every field. This is also the case in the denim world.
Especially in recent years the high amounts of waste that have been going on globally, the consumption frenzy and endless demands while the future of our planet is being discussed every day have forced us to sit back for a moment and question this process. Because there is no end to it!
At this very point, beyond producing new innovations to catch the trend at all times, the more important and much more difficult task is to make that innovation sustainable in the future and to convince your target audience of this. We push our limits every day to achieve this.
Elena Bonvicini
Founder
EB Denim
Scaling a brand and maintaining sustainability is a constant balancing act. Moving production from Los Angeles to overseas was a difficult but necessary decision. While I loved the proximity and relationships built here in L.A., this change allowed us to prioritize long-term growth while maintaining quality.
Paola Corna
Chief Financial Officer, Sustainability and Human Resources Manager
ACM
From the latest market developments, it is evident that there is a clear and growing interest in upcycling and recycling, extending to manufacturing processes. This focus stems from the need to minimize waste and prevent textile waste from being sent to landfills or incinerated. Our customers have shown significant interest in this issue, particularly in ACM accessories such as buttons and rivets made from recycled zamak and labels crafted from reclaimed leather. Both are made from materials that, like our company, are GRS certified.
Anatt Finkler
Creative Director
Global Denim
One of the most impactful lessons I’ve learned this year came from events, meetings and gatherings with industry peers such as those organized by the Transformers Foundation. Despite how impressive or successful individual companies may appear in their communications, we’re all in the same boat and facing similar struggles in the world of denim making.
One of the biggest challenges we share is the prioritization of price over innovation or meaningful change. This mindset threatens to undermine the progress we’ve worked so hard to achieve. Recognizing this has made me realize how crucial it is to speak up and share these mutual challenges openly. By joining forces, we can create better solutions and drive real change together.
No business is without its challenges, and by embracing transparency—rather than masking issues with a façade of perfection—we can help each other and provide valuable insights for future generations. This approach not only fosters collaboration but also helps inspire and teach the next generation of leaders who will continue to innovate and drive the industry forward.
Paolo Gnutti
Creative Director
ISKO Luxury by PG
I believe that this is fundamental for anyone, whether experienced or not, who wants to continuously grow in their professional journey and beyond. But how can we always learn something new? It requires curiosity, a willingness to experiment, getting our hands dirty and, most importantly, making mistakes. Yes, because it is through mistakes that we learn from our errors.
I can’t provide a specific example that has changed my perspective on creating my denim capsules. The reason is that my perspective shifts automatically every time I create a new collection, capsule or product. I always look at the product I want to create from different angles. I listen to and observe young people—how they dress, what they want to express and how they communicate. Above all, I dive into the past, from which I draw stories and positive energy. Ultimately, my education comes from the road, the production departments, and my best teachers are my mistakes.
Adriano Goldschmied
Founder
Genious Group
Today I don’t think that our long career in denim is helping so much in a new scenario. What makes our job so interesting is the fact that it is continuously changing. This means that many of the things we learned in the past are not valid today. It is like a fire that I burn our knowledge and need new and more ideas to continue to stay alive and grow.
The passion that I have for denim is probably due to this competitive game. But what is impressive today is the speed of the changes and their complexity. Today, we have so many factors that we have to consider, which are integrated into our business. In addition to the traditional elements we are used to considering like technical innovation, aesthetic, quality, durability, fashion trends, today there are so many other things like sustainability, circularity, social impact and, very important, communication and marketing.
It is like somebody is constantly raising the bar and increasing the speed. This is changing the way of operating and managing our activity and makes the game more stressful and intense. Maybe only AI can help us in the years to come.
Juan Carlos Gordillo
Denim Designer
Throughout my career as an independent designer, I have learned that honesty and ecological innovation are fundamental for creating real change in the textile industry. This lesson applies not only to my development as a professional but also to the industry as a whole. I have had the opportunity to observe projects that implement genuine ecological practices based on a true commitment to sustainability, and I have seen how these authentic actions have a tangible impact, far removed from the deceptive greenwashing marketing.
I firmly believe that we cannot talk about real change in the industry without a solid foundation of honesty. The industry is made up of the people who drive it, and without an honest and transparent approach any attempt at change loses value. In a globalized world where companies seek to expand into markets such as Latin America, it is crucial that they arrive with authentic values and not empty promises. Transparency and honesty must be the starting point if we truly want our actions to make a positive and lasting impact.
Joy Gruver
Business Development Manager, Textiles
Eastman
As the denim industry evolves, one enduring lesson is the necessity of continuous innovation to meet shifting consumer demands. Recently we’ve learned that sustainability, comfort and versatility are not just trends but imperatives shaping the future of denim. This realization has deeply influenced our approach to fashion at Eastman, particularly with Naia Renew.
Denim’s iconic appeal must now align with environmentally conscious practices. Naia Renew addresses this by combining 60 percent sustainably sourced wood pulp with 40 percent GRS-certified recycled content, diverting waste from landfills through Eastman’s molecular recycling technology. This process creates a circular fiber with a low environmental footprint, allowing us to deliver denim that is sustainable yet uncompromising in quality.
Comfort is another growing priority. Consumers seek denim that feels as good as it looks. Naia Renew fibers bring a cotton-like softness and skin-friendly, hypoallergenic properties to denim, offering a lightweight and comfy wearing experience. Thanks to the fiber’s excellent moisture-management properties, denim made with Naia Renew ensures a drier, non-clinging feel, even in hot and humid conditions, making it the perfect choice for comfortable wear in all seasons.
From robust jackets to soft shirts and pants, Naia Renew empowers diverse designs while maintaining denim’s timeless structure. Its adaptability to various blends ensures performance and aesthetic appeal, catering to consumers’ multifaceted lifestyles.
This intersection of innovation and sustainability has reinforced our commitment to redefining denim for a dynamic and conscientious world.
Tuncay Kılıçkan
Head of Global Business Development for Denim
Lenzing
Constant learning is a fundamental pillar of denim making, especially considering how dynamic the industry is. Denim is perhaps the most ever-evolving segment in apparel, constantly exploring new materials, fits, washes and techniques—this is what makes it timeless. One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned recently has been the transformation of denim laundries, particularly the shift from conventional resource-intensive processes to more-innovative methods like ozone and nebulization.
These processes offer significant resource savings. With ozone, for example, it’s possible to achieve bleach looks, though not always with the same look as traditional methods, but it still serves a valuable purpose. Nebulization, on the other hand, uses far less liquid, leading to considerable reductions in water, chemicals and energy usage, especially considering the shorter drying time that follows. At first I didn’t expect such a profound transition. Of all the stages in denim production, from fiber to garment, this represents one of the most impactful steps toward more-responsible denim making. It made me realize that it’s possible.
Philippe Mignot
Project Manager
NextPrinting
I have been working in the textile industry for 30 years and have extensive knowledge of both the Italian and international supply chains. Initially I thought that in a sector rooted in tradition and the cult of vintage, like denim, there might be more resistance to digital-printing technology. However, I was pleasantly surprised; as with other emerging technologies, such as artificial intelligence, the initial impact can be challenging and sometimes met with skepticism.
I see companies and brands increasingly ready to integrate our digital-printing solutions into their processes. Digital printing does not replace the craftsmanship that we Italians value so deeply; rather, it offers different solutions and opportunities, particularly with a reduced environmental impact. The denim sector is open and adaptable to new perspectives as demonstrated by the interest we receive daily.
Ebru Ozaydin
Global Product Director
Category Leader Denim, Wovens and Ready-to-Wear
The LYCRA Company
If there is one constant in the denim category, there is always absolute and inevitable change in the making process. What I have learned recently that has shifted my perspective is that we now deal with a new type of consumer—one who is more educated, a researcher, an advocate of better ingredients and reduced-impact design, a label reader who is more vocal about what they are looking for. One size does not fit all when it comes to consumer needs anymore.
Conventional methods of making only constitute a basis, but the skill of engineering an ingredient matrix and understanding consumer needs in light of better practices is the real asset now. This comes with a heavy responsibility of material-science knowledge, calculation of impact—technologically and socially—seamless communication and supporting a design process for a 360-degree value proposition.
The supply-demand balance is more challenging to manage now compared to pre-pandemic times. The competition is much fiercer today, even if technology is accessible once you have the financial and technical resources, but vision and strategy make the difference. Understanding the end consumer is essential; offering them differentiation they are confident to invest in is now the challenge.
That, I believe, is the power of our company, stemming from the inherent brand value of The LYCRA Company—rigorous research, thinking outside the box, being courageous, backing our research with solid data, collaborating with denim value-chain partners and learning from each other for an impeccable outcome.
Kevin Reardon
Senior Vice President of Commercial Strategy
Cone Denim
Being in the denim industry for over 40 years, change has been ever present. However, the need for integrity, innovation, sustainability, flexibility and agility has never been stronger than it is today.
Today we have access to extensive data and information, allowing us to make more-accurate and thoughtful decisions. We must embrace this or be left behind.
In addition to constant change, strong relationships are key. We must not be afraid to be pioneers and take risks to achieve our goals.
We must always hold to our brand’s core values while simultaneously addressing the multitudes of influences that shape the forward path. Otherwise, we may lose our identity in the process.
Holly Sanders
Founder
The Angela
One of the most impactful lessons I’ve learned recently is the importance of connecting with the communities that bring my denim designs to life. By learning about their traditions, cultures and craftsmanship, I can create pieces that honor their contributions while integrating sustainable practices. It goes beyond design; it’s about building a business that highlights these communities and gives back in ways that genuinely make their lives better.
This commitment is already a part of my work as I’ve partnered with organizations like Days for Girls to provide menstrual products to underserved communities and donate books to classrooms for English-language learners. By listening to the stories and challenges of the people who help bring my designs to life, I can find meaningful ways to support them—whether that’s through fair wages, preserving their craftsmanship or addressing barriers they face in daily life.
Sustainability isn’t just about materials; it’s about sustaining the people who make this work possible. By uplifting their artistry and investing in their futures, I aim to create a cycle of design and production that inspires, empowers and leaves a lasting, positive impact. I’m in love with my work because I give and receive love from the people who make it all possible!
Katie Tague
Senior Vice President of Denim Marketing and Sales
Artistic Milliners PVT LTD
Brands must recognize that sustainability is not just a top-down initiative but a collaborative effort throughout the supply chain. For corporate social responsibility to be genuinely impactful, it’s essential for brands to hold hands in the responsibility, accountability and costs with their direct suppliers and beyond to the lower-tier suppliers.
These relationships are often the driving force behind successful CSR initiatives as suppliers at these tiers execute the on-the-ground work. Brands must recognize the need for mutual investment—not just in financial terms but in knowledge and technology—in addition to encouraging this sharing between their partners. When L1 and L2 suppliers are supported in meeting sustainability goals through collaboration and investment they become true stakeholders, driving lasting change.
Adam Taubenfligel
Co-founder and Creative Director
Triarchy
The more time I spend making denim, the more I am reminded of the simplicity required to do it right. Recently I’ve been struck by how deeply this perspective has shaped my understanding of responsible production. It’s not that such practices are impossible—they’re simply out of reach for many companies due to an unrelenting race to slash prices and outpace one another to the bottom, ultimately devaluing the industry itself.
But there’s a way that rejects shortcuts and embraces purpose over profit. I’ve found inspiration in companies that take a slower, more thoughtful approach, leaving a profound impression on me and proving that responsibility and accessibility can coexist. These companies remind me that denim, at its best, tells a story of integrity, care and longevity.
This perspective has reinforced my belief that we have the unique opportunity in denim to prioritize what truly matters. When our values guide us, they lead to incredible products and businesses. It’s about taking accountability for every stitch and every decision, ensuring that the impact we leave behind is one we’re proud of.
In a world dominated by fast fashion and fleeting trends, doing things the right way may seem like an uphill battle, but it’s a battle worth fighting. When we prioritize responsibility, we’re not just creating products—we’re shaping a future where quality, respect for the planet and human dignity take center stage. If these aren’t your priorities, maybe it’s time to rethink your approach.
Alice Tonello
Marketing, Research and Development
Tonello
My perspective is that we learn every day—from events, experiences, the people we meet and the projects we undertake. Life is a continuous journey of learning, offering new insights along the way. This is true in all aspects of life, including denim. The industry is constantly evolving, and we should never consider anything as fixed or permanent. There is always room for growth and innovation.
In denim making, I believe we need to shift toward a more responsible, future-focused approach. We must embrace positive change and remain open to new ideas that prioritize ethical practices and responsibility. This shift requires not only technological advancements but also a change in mindset—one that values people, the planet and long-term impact over short-term gains.
There is a clear need for a significant yet positive shift—one that looks to the future with an open mind, focusing on responsibility and integrity. We must embrace this change, hoping that the era of superficiality is fading, making room for more concreteness, authenticity and lasting progress.
Andrea Venier
Managing Director
Officina39
Officina39’s mission has always been focused on finding sustainable alternatives to the chemical-processing and -manufacturing practices that define the textile industry, particularly denim. This mission drives multiple levels of research.
On one hand, it focuses on targeted interventions to optimize consumption and minimize environmental impacts. On the other, it seeks to address processes in our industry known to be harmful to both the environment and human health, calling for their complete and immediate replacement. What has struck me over the years is just this: If we know certain substances and practices are harmful, why do we continue to use them? The answer, though simple, is troubling: It comes down to economics. So, we decided to take a different approach to our research and product development.
Sustainability is truly meaningful only when it incorporates the economic aspect, becoming competitive in both price and performance. One of our most recent innovations, Zero PP, embodies this principle. We developed an innovative solution to replace potassium permanganate. Our ongoing goal is clear—to continuously pursue alternatives that represent the best choice.
Hakan Vercan
Category Manager
ISKO
In the world of denim making I’ve learned that true innovation doesn’t happen just by reaching a point where everything seems good enough. In fact, we often think we’ve done everything necessary to succeed when we hit the first milestone. But that’s only 90 percent of the journey. The real challenge lies in that final 10 percent.
It requires far more effort, creativity and attention to detail in order to perfect what’s already been established. I’ve come to realize that the last 10 percent is where the real breakthrough happens—it’s the difference between good and truly exceptional work. This shift in perspective has made me appreciate the value of persistence and refinement in the process of denim innovation.
Luciano Vivolo
Founder and President
Vivolo
Denim is one of Vivolo’s core segments. We specialize in creating leather and alternative-material accessories that enhance each garment’s uniqueness and elevate its intrinsic value, aligning with the stylistic needs of our customers and their high-end brands. Even after nearly 50 years in business I’m still struck by how integral design and research are to our work, and their importance only continues to grow.
Fashion is a powerful communication tool. Conveying the cultural influences of a constantly evolving world through an accessory is a fascinating challenge that demands continuous creative effort. To this romantic pursuit, we add a pragmatic focus on sourcing increasingly sustainable materials and processes while adhering to more rigorous standards and certifications.
But the most important thing remains the aesthetic aspect. If we consider two pairs of jeans made from the same material, perhaps even by the same garment maker, what ultimately makes a difference and captures the consumer’s heart? That detail, that charm, that distinctive touch that transforms a garment into an iconic piece? At Vivolo, we live for that moment, designing and creating true uniqueness.
Vivian Wang
Managing Director and Global Sales Manager
Kingpins Show
One of my first jobs in denim was working with Adriano Goldschmied. That was an invaluable experience that formed the foundation for my work at Kingpins. Adriano believed that every detail in a design should have a reason, no matter how small. For example, why is the pocket placed in this particular way? Why does a certain fabric construction complement a specific design? These are the differences that set premium denim apart. Adriano impressed on me that I should always question why every decision is made.
That ethos has stayed with me over the years, and I often think about it when I look at new denim designs, developments and products.
I also carry that idea to Kingpins and think about the “why” behind each decision. From the food we serve to the layout of our shows, each decision is preceded by a “why.” Will this make it easier for our exhibitors and attendees to do business? Will this help them to meet their short-term and long-term goals? I credit that to Adriano.
The value of the “why” is related to another lesson I learned early in my career: The value of collaboration—long before the word “collab” became a buzzword.
That’s the thinking behind Denim Talks, our seminar series, and The Boxes, our installation space for creative collaborations. We are all looking to learn and be inspired. I believe taking a cooperative approach, working together, and sharing our experiences and insights is the best way to do that.
Ani Wells
Founder and Director
Simply Suzette
I’ve recently been reminded that the deeper we dig into denim the more we uncover how interconnected everything is. Nature, people and systems—we are all dependent on one another. Denim often starts as a single thread, but its impact stretches from the soil to the final wearer and back again. A big shift for me has been seeing how regenerative practices go beyond soil health to see the big picture. Regenerative outcomes are about restoring balance to entire ecosystems and empowering communities.
It’s also been a humbling reminder that innovation does not always mean creating something entirely new. Sometimes it’s about revisiting and tweaking heritage methods, listening to the land and rethinking how we produce in harmony with nature. Denim, at its core, has always been durable and resourceful; we’re just learning how to honor that in a more intentional way.
Responses have been edited for clarity and space.