California Apparel News

Now in its 20th year, Première Vision New York began this milestone anniversary in a new space, moving from Manhattan’s Pier 94, located between 52nd and 53rd streets, to Center415 on Fifth Avenue, between 37th and 38th streets.

The show is now providing a greater focus on sustainable sourcing. For this edition, which ran Jan. 21–22, the show launched a new area called Smart Creation, which brought together exhibitors focused on responsible practices.

“For the trends, we had a big focus on sustainability here in New York at PV,” said the show’s fashion product manager, Lucie Jeannot. “It’s something that is really important for us. The sourcing of the fibers, the technical areas and manufacturing based on three pillars—the company, transformation process and products.”

Through using these three pillars to recognize more-responsible textile providers, Jeannot feels that Première Vision New York has set important guidelines to support the transition toward more responsible manufacturing. At the start of this new decade, she says the current focus of the show is supporting brands that provide cleaner apparel-sourcing options for designers as the shift toward creating a less pollutive industry continues.

“We have creative and sustainable offers. A lot of exhibitors have important sustainable offerings in their collections, and they are working in that direction,” she explained. “We really focused on this new movement and flexible approach for positive production.”

While advancements in eco-friendly production continue to trend, the goal of apparel makers is to create clothing that is attractive to consumers in order to help build a solid clientele. Discussing trends in textures, Jeannot noted a demand for fabrics that are rich in composition and can serve as the foundation for clothing that will make a statement.

“It’s more of a take on nature,” Jeannot said. “Trends on workwear looks are based on fabric with more density. It’s not just plain—they are playing with twill, tweeds and crepes, textured fabrics. It’s not smooth and polished.”

Adding to the trend mix are styles that rely on abstract designs. Among the exhibitors’ trending textile styles were offerings that boasted more volume. Textile houses made room for ruffles, jewels, ribbon, appliqués, prints and embroidery over lace.

“It’s not very traditional, and if it is it’s twisted,” Jeannot explained.

On the color front, textile manufacturers worked with new approaches to blue, yet the fresh hues are not the standard. These blues are more connected to the elements—water and air or the clouds—rather than expected shades such as navy.

“They are blue, but not in a boring way,” Jeannot said. “It’s more profound, more creative and more surprising blue.”

While these trends in texture and color remain important, Jeannot returned to the topic of cleaning up textile production when asked about the biggest takeaway from this season’s show.

“We need more creative processes, from the sourcing to the company,” she explained. “We have a glossary with all the information on the fibers—how they can be sustainable and impact the environment. We want people to have the right information to make their own choices. It’s a bit challenging right now. But it’s time to take action.”

Photos by Stephane Kossmann