California Apparel News

Los Angeles–based brand Boyish recently launched its new 30-piece Spring 2019 collection as a testament to its progress toward more eco-friendly jeans.

Founder and Creative Director Jordan Nodarse is part of the new generation of denim professionals who are learning from their predecessors how to bring more-sustainable practices into the production of jeans.

“Before, I was in factories a lot so I was always hands-on, learning more and more about how jeans were made and the different chemicals it takes to make them, how much water it takes to make them,” he explained. “It never seemed right to have so many different resources to make jeans.”

While Nodarse has worked in the apparel industry for more than a decade, it was his experience in denim that deeply affected his career’s trajectory. He worked with Revolve as the co-creator of Alliance Apparel Group’s Grlfrnd Denim and was the director of denim and special projects at the Los Angeles sustainable company Reformation. It was his time at Reformation that sparked his desire to create better denim.

“We focus a lot on recycling because there is a problem,” he said, noting that fashion is extremely wasteful, from disposing of old products to the whole supply chain.

Located in a 2,400-square-foot space in the Los Angeles Arts District, Boyish was started using Better Cotton Initiative cotton mixed with recycled cotton, which Nodarse says doesn’t add additional costs. Next, he used a blend of organic and recycled cotton, a formula that does command a higher price.

The recently launched Boyish collection relies on a formulation of organic and recycled cotton blends mixed with Tencel to achieve Nodarse’s commitment to eco-friendlier, quality pieces that are affordable. He also introduced a comfort-stretch version of his rigid denim in skinny, crop-flare and wide-leg styles.

“It’s very important that we build products that are not only sustainably manufactured but also sustainably priced and sustainably achievable in the market for consumers to purchase,” he said.

“We’re never trying to make something that is sustainable but has bad quality nor make something that has great quality but is not sustainable. They always have to go together.”

Nodarse requires certification for all the fibers he uses and follows the American Apparel & Footwear Association’s guidelines found on the organization’s Restricted Substances List. He works with Bluesign-certified partners to trace textile production to ensure best practices.

While certain Boyish pieces are made in Los Angeles, many are made with partners in Thailand and Turkey. The label relies on a supply chain where all partners are located close to one another, which increases efficiency and reduces the environmental impact of manufacturing.

“My spinner is right next to my mill, which is near my sewing and my laundry factories. They are all approximately 20 miles from each other,” he said. “That creates a very efficient supply chain.”

The company is also entering the circular-knits segment by using denim yarns to create organic cotton and Refibra garments with partners in Morocco and Barcelona, Spain. Nodarse hopes this will eventually lead to a zero-waste system that relies on recycling scraps dyed with natural products, but he also wants his products to look good.

“The whole essence of Boyish is built off of the concept that women wear men’s jeans. They buy these vintage Wrangler, Levi’s and Lee jeans. The aesthetic is boyish but sexy,” he explained.

As the owner of a sustainable-denim brand founded upon a commitment to better practices, Nodarse is not ready to stop innovating to create products through improved manufacturing. Next year, he will unveil a blend that uses Refibra Tencel Lyocell for the Spring 2020 collection, which he will begin offering to wholesale customers in July.

Boyish is available in sizes 22 to 32 and lengths from 26 to 32 inches with wholesale prices ranging from $43 to $80. The collection is available through partners including Nordstrom and Ron Herman and online at www.boyish-jeans.com.