California Apparel News

Spirits were high and business was written at the West Coast Trend Show Spring ’16 menswear fashion market, held at the Embassy Suites hotel near the Los Angeles International Airport.

“We’ve had the most successful Spring show to date with the highest number of retailers and representatives in attendance,” said WCTS organizer Ken Haruta, who represents Bill Lavin Belts and SAXX Underwear. Haruta said this season there was a 20 percent increase in retailers over last year.

The sold-out show featured more than 100 representatives and more than 200 brands spread across three floors of the hotel. Officially, the show was held Aug. 9–10, but in recent seasons, many exhibitors and retailers start working a day early.

“This is my best show, no doubt about it,” said Ivan Quiteno, who represents Ibiza, Mac Jeans and Raffi Linea Uomo, “Saturday has become a complete extra day for me.”

Haruta attributed the increase in attendance to convenience and cost savings (some buyers are subsidized) as well as amenities such as complimentary coffee, lunch, afternoon drinks/snacks and Sunday-night dinner with entertainment.

“When you can see 20 people in a three-day show, it’s a big return on your investment,” said longtime WCTS exhibitor David Winston of Gramercy Foundry. “In two days, I can have 20 appointments that I don’t have to do in Las Vegas or on the road.”

WCTS draws buyers from mid-tier to upper-end specialty stores in California such as Patrick James in Fresno and Gary’s in Newport Beach as well as retailers from Alaska, Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Nevada, New Mexico and Washington state.

“The benefit is that it’s an intimate venue,” said Paul R. Desilet of Paul Richards Clothing in Bothell, Wash. “Most of the vendors I [work with] are here and in Las Vegas. I’m firming up Fall and Holiday buys as I move toward Spring.”

Retailer Ronnie Kemper owns Rainsong, three stores in California Wine Country carrying men’s and women’s apparel and footwear. “There are so many categories to get done in Las Vegas,” she said. “I had a lovely day in a calm and focused environment. It’s great to go back to the room in between appointments. I got a lot done with fewer distractions.”

First-time attendee Nick Blake from Desmonds in Billings, Mont., opted to shop WCTS instead of Las Vegas. “All but two of my key vendors are at this show,” he said. “I was able to see them and had enough time to pick up new lines.”

Jimmy Au, owner of Jimmy Au’s Beverly Hills, is a longtime attendee at WCTS.

“It’s so convenient,” he said. “I always find new vendors here, and it prepares me for Las Vegas.” There were several retailers from Las Vegas, includingHarris & Frank and Stitched, that shopped the show. Sam Glaser, vice president of purchasing and e- commerce at Stitched in the Cosmopolitan hotel, explained, “We do a lot of business with existing lines here, and it really frees us up to see five shows in three days during the Las Vegas market.”

Carter and Birer described the market as still flat since the recession.

“It’s harder today for a bricks-and-mortar retailer,” Birer said. “You have to be a great artist to be different. If you don’t have a relationship with your customer, you’re at a great disadvantage.”

For Michelle Carter, men’s swim and active buyer for KSL Resorts in Rancho Mirage, Calif., business follows the resort seasons. “We buy for eight properties,” she said. “Because we’re a resort, people have disposable income. When it’s in season, we’re in season and business is strong.”

Overall, business is rebounding, Glaser said. “We’re seeing brands taking more risks,” he said. “It’s key for retailers to find unique ways to deliver value to the customer and differentiate with regards to service and product mix.”

Trend spotting

From soft coats and lightweight knits to linen tops and bottoms, buyers at WCTS were looking for products to inspire their business. Desilet liked the five-pocket jean cut in a slack model by Ballin. “I think it’s done really well, and it’s gonna be the new pant category,” he said.

Mike Carter, owner of Carters in Phoenix, worked with key brands such as Peter Millar and Bills Khakis at WCTS. “I also added new lines Johnnie-O, Southern Tide and Vineyard Vines,” he said.

Jonathan Birer from Charlie’s Locker in Newport Beach, Calif., which caters to the affluent boater, said the bulk of his menswear lines is traditional. “I’m here for the paint and fluff, unique items to put in my store like Patrick Assaraf and Gramercy Foundry,” he said.

Gramercy Foundry’s Winston said the garment pigment-dyed linen and twill jackets are extremely popular. “We don’t usually do shorts, but people are asking for them, so we took our shirting and put them into shorts,” he said.