California Apparel News

The July 9–10 run of the Kingpins boutique denim trade show at the Cooper Design Space in Los Angeles included 44 local and international exhibitors.

Exhibitors showed a mix that included unisex knit tops and denim with new weaving techniques and embellishments, as well as thermal and performance denim and high-shine textured materials.

Longtime Kingpins exhibitor Tavex, headquartered in Madrid,was showing three major themes—“Author,” “Voyager” and “Enviromilitarist”—according to Richard M. Tobin, director of merchandising and product development.

“Author” is a preppy, traditional style but with subtle changes made to its silhouette to make it more contemporary, Tobin said. The “Voyager” has a more 21st-century look with a bit of sheen and laser-etched designs. “Enviromilitarist” is inspired by bespoke tailoring. It is vintage, authentic and hand-crafted.

To incorporate these trends, Tavex commissioned students in Puebla, Mexico, to create samples that incorporated the themes. “We gave the students fabric and let their minds run wild,” Tobin said.

Linesman Clothing Inc.,based in Commerce, Calif., has worked with major brands such as denim brand Levi’s and skate company Supreme.Collaborating with brands gives partners Alan McGrath and Eddie Flores the opportunity to create from concept to design, and, because they are local, they have the advantage of working one-on-one with their clients. Linesman has been around for 13 years, but McGrath and Flores have worked together in the industry for nearly 30 years.

The two develop fabrics, patterns, detail, washes, application and screen printing while working with other vendors on sourcing, fit, trim and construction.

“Levi’s came to us five years ago and gave us an old vintage fabric. [They] had no idea about contents but said, ‘We need you to replicate it,’” McGrath said. “So we came up with an idea of twisting different types of yarn together and then knitting it.”

Alberto De Conti, general manager of Garmon Chemicals and The Italian Job, works with the chemistry of denim design. Garmon specializes in garment finishing, fabric treatments and dye and creating special effects for fabrics. Based in San Marino, Italy, The Italian Job is Garmon’s design studio, which specializes in applying the company’s garment chemistry techniques. “We take the dye, using the chemical ingredients, and turn it into a product proposition while targeting established brands such as Levi’s, G-Star, Diesel out of Asia,” De Conti said.

Twice a year, The Italian Job develops a collection based on Garmon’s new innovations. This season the studio expanded beyond denim to create new pieces in cotton and wool.

De Conti said brands are responding to darker inline seams, coatings that are more natural with a stretch and softness to it.

TSF LLC was showing new developments for denim previously used for T-shirts.

“We decided to use those similar tee treatments and put them on denim,” said TSF representative Charles De Torre, whose background is in vertical knit manufacturing.

“We developed some inks that could stay in denim that are usually made for silkscreen.” The sublimation inks on denim will stay no matter how many washes, De Torre said. Juicy Couture used the process for a recent pant style, he added.

The company applies flocking, foiling and potassium printing on the denim. They also patented a photo-real embroidery technique. “We take the photos and can create ombré and half tones,” he said.

Invista’s Jean Hegedus and Rota Ratskoff said Lycra DualFX, with super stretch and great recovery, are popular for womenswear. For menswear, Thermolite denim and performance denim are doing well with activewear brands such as Nike and Levi’s skate jean collaboration, Hegedus said.

Women’s denim brands are also looking at the Coolmax for lightweight denim fabrics with moisture-management properties. Knit denim made from indigo-dyed knits is another area that is trending.