California Apparel News

Los Angeles–based denim line THVM has delved into sustainability by adding eco-friendly denim to its core basic line of raw denim jeans.

The new “Air Wash” denim collection, launched for Spring ‘13, was created by collaborating with Istanbul-based Orta Anadolu, to create the fabrics, and Los Angeles washhouse Denim-Tech, which developed the “Air Wash” treatments.

THVM founders Brian Kim and wife Olga Nazarova have garnered a cool “fashion-insider” following for their denim line with its raw, artisinal aesthetic.

The new collection expands the brand’s product base—while keeping an eye on the big picture. “It just felt right for us to go the eco-route and really commit to it,” Kim said. “Once we decided to do it, we understood that it’s going to be a long commitment and that every season we’re going to try really hard to focus to improve the sustainability of it. It’s a good feeling, really, to work on something that has a good effect on what you’re doing.”

He explained that he and Nazarova are trying to make the process as eco-friendly as possible. “We want [to work with] everything from the mills to the laundry and everything in between to try to minimize the impact on the environment.”

Jeans are made from Orta’s “Alchemy One” fabric, created with a 90 percent sustainable process in which the fabrics are produced with recycled ammonia in the finishing process. The “Air Wash” treatments minimize water usage and are created with eco-friendly chemicals. The finished look of the “Air Wash” treatment resembles the look of denim after being worn for approximately three months. The Spring collection includes one women’s skinny jean and five men’s styles, including skinny, tapered and straight-leg options. Women’s and men’s are offered in a 10½-ounce comfort stretch. Men’s also includes an 11-ounce true indigo rigid cotton fabric. The retail price is $220, which is competitive for premium denim but a higher price point than THVM’s core basic line, which retails for $100 to $120.

“So, in a way, for a consumer who usually buys other denim brands, it’s pretty much the same price that they would pay, but it’s sustainable and it helps the earth,” Nazarova said.

The collection is small, but as better fabrics and techniques are developed, they plan to grow the category.

“Right now at this point in the industry, everybody’s been trying to do waterless washes and eco-washes, but it’s still a little difficult because of the technology from the suppliers of the machines for the laundry,” Kim said. “So we took it upon ourselves to work with the mills directly to create fabrics that work with the washes better.”

In addition to raw denim, the line includes a variety of novelty washes. “We’re pretty crazy when it comes to our novelty dye program,” Kim said. For Spring, they worked with laundry and dyehouses to create multi-process dye treatments to replicate the watercolor sketches that inspired the collection. “We’re learning new things together,” Nazarova said. “They might have the knowledge but never thought to use it in that way. It’s very beneficial for the developers and for us, too.”

The reaction to the Spring ’13 “Air Wash” collection has been great, according to Kim. “It’s something that we are working with the mill and the laundry ongoing. So every season we [will] improve it,” he said.