California Apparel News

Philip Treacy demonstrates how to make a hat at the Academy of Art University, photo by Randy Brooke

Philip Treacy’s hats have topped the heads of Lady Gaga, the Royal family and walked the runways of haute couture shows. He has worked with Alexander McQueen, Givenchy, Valentino and with Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. Treacy’s designs for the Royal wedding - 36 including the wedding party – have made hats one of fashion’s most glamorous accessories. His name evokes fantasy, luxury and absolute chic. The Irish milliner is a fashion legend.

And so, it was an honor to watch the master of his craft give a hat demonstration at the Academy of Art University. Along with the students, there was an impressive audience on hand. Sarah Burton, H.R.H. Princess Reema Bandar Al-Saud as well as Suzy Menkes, Cathy Horyn and Stephan Rabimov watched Treacy demonstrate his couture millinery techniques. He also told behind-the-scenes stories of some of his famous creations including a Swarovski encrusted bowler made for Grace Jones and the Nandu feather hat custom made for the Duchess of Cornwall’s wedding to Prince Charles.

Lady Gaga in a Philip Treacy hat

Treacy, dressed in his favorite bright blue palette, was like a mad scientist cooking pots of potions with scissors and a needle and thread in hand. “Using glue is sacrilege, but I love it,” he quipped. Treacy showed how high end looks could be created from inexpensive materials found at Walgreens. Fashion is democratic and hats should be available for everyone Treacy told me following the demo. The key he said is being creative. “It’s exciting to make something from nothing.” Twisting brightly colored ostrich feathers with a curling iron and stiffening silk chiffon fabric with gelatin were just a few of his tricks. “No one is going to come along and say you’ve broken the rules,” he said. In fact, breaking the rules is part of being creative. “If it’s wrecked, maybe just wreck it more,” he said when styling an imperfect feather.

Treacy’s fascination with hats began in early childhood and is a lifelong passion. “Hats bring something different to everyone’s personality,” he said. “I make hats because I love hats and I love to make women look good.” It was the late Isabella Blow who championed the young milliner and wore many of his creations. Brimming with confidence and appreciation Treacy said, “When I was 22 I was introduced to Karl Lagerfeld by Isabella Blow and she thought she was doing him a favor.” Indeed, his impressive repertoire of work now speaks for itself.

Isabella Blow, photo by Kevin Davies

It was a rare treat to listen to Treacy banter with Burton about hats made for McQueen shows and the art of creating custom designs. “People can be fearful about the unknown,” said Treacy. “It’s not so serious, it’s meant to be enjoyable,” he said. Burton added that it can take a lot of fittings to make a custom garment. “It’s very rewarding when you have a relationship with [clients.]” she said.

With a master’s touch, it took Treacy no time at all to distress pink netting and made a head piece with a cloud effect similar to one he created in a Chanel fashion show. “[Karl] would say something like give me a cloud. I would go home in a panic and think what does he mean?!” Treacy joked. The key to creating hats is thinking on your feet he explained. And when working with Lagerfeld that was no easy trick as he liked to style his shows during fittings. Imagine creating hats on the spot with supermodel Linda Evangelista looking picture perfect in Chanel Couture and Vogue editrix Anna Wintour, photographer Herb Ritts and Lagerfeld himself watching? Not for the faint of heart and certainly not for those without creativity.

With Treacy’s quick wit, it is easy to see how he rises to the challenge. “They believe in originality,” he said of designers. “They like to see something they haven’t seen before.”

Philip Treacy's butterfly hat for Alexander McQueen, photo by Getty

Here are more photos from the demonstration at AAU. Photos by Randy Brooke.