Krammer & Stoudt: Vintage Looks Its Own Way
There’s gold in vintage. Just ask “Mad Men” designer Janie Bryant and the staff of Gap Inc.’s Banana Republic division. Banana Republic’s Kennedy era–esque “Mad Men” collection helped Banana Republic this year post its best first-quarter sales ever, according to Gap Inc.
But “Mad Men” is not the last word in fashions with a period inspiration, according to novice designer Michael Rubin, a fine-arts painter, and his wife, Courtenay Nearburg, a photographer. They introduced 10-piece men’s line Krammer & Stoudt, which debuted at the Focus Apparel & Accessories show during its June 11–13 run at Los Angeles Fashion Market.
The line represents a do-it-yourself ethic polished by old-school tailoring. A veteran of Orange County, Calif.’s 1980s punk-rock scene and, later, of Southern California’s art-gallery scene, the self-taught Rubin often altered vintage clothes from the 1950s for personal use. Nearburg suggested they work on a men’s fashion line, and they mulled over what it should look like.
Vintage, yes. But not costumey and definitely updated to today’s tastes. The result was Krammer & Stoudt’s interpretation of the West Coast look of the 1950s and 1960s. It’s more Hollywood film set and sun-swept beach rather than Manhattan office.
With the collection’s suiting of the “Wesley” corduroy suit and the “Davis” velveteen suit, Rubin took the silhouettes of 1950s-era suits but shortened the length of the coats and made them more fitted. For tops, such as the “Cesar” wool shirt, Rubin took inspiration from 1950s Pendleton work shirts. But he shortened the hem for the Cesar. He opted for a single welt pocket, rather than the two pockets, and dumped the iconic plaids in favor of a camel-colored wool fabric on the top.
The collection offers 10 styles, which include two styles of blazer; two safari-style jackets; cotton, button-down shirts; and four pleated trousers. For jeans, the label went for a rockabilly look: loose fitting at the waist, with straight legs meant to be cuffed at the ankles.
Rubin’s raw inspiration was given a polish by a tailor with a deep pedigree. Veteran tailor and Orange County suits manufacturer Jaime Chimal has been in the business for more than three decades, and he acted as a consultant for the suiting. He also manufactured the suits.
“He believed in working on something original with Mike,” Nearburg said. Santa Ana, Calif.–based California Apparel Service manufactured the shirting and the trousers. They have plans to offer made-to-measure Krammer & Stoudt suits, a venture in which Chimal will play a role.
For more information, contact Courtenay Nearburg at (714) 290-2360 or court@krammer-stoudt.com.—Andrew Asch
