Molly Grad
Gottex’s creative director brings her couture pedigree to the swim company’s rich heritage.
Gottex is as iconic to swimwear as chic is to the South of France. The 55-year-old brand recently revamped itself when Molly Grad was named creative director in 2009. The Central Saint Martins–educated, award-winning designer held positions at Stella McCartney, Yves Saint Laurent and Gianfranco Ferre before joining the Gottex team. Based in Israel with offices in New York, the company has garnered new acclaim and followers due to Grad’s design flair and the contemporary femininity she brings to the collection. Artistic prints merge with beautiful fits, drawing on Gottex’s rich heritage to encapsulate the Cruise 2012 collection. Fashion Editor N. Jayne Seward caught up with Grad in a private suite at the Mondrian hotel in South Beach to talk fashion, fit and resort chic.
What you’re doing is quite sophisticated, but it’s also contemporary. How has the brand evolved since you became creative director?I feel like I’m taking the DNA of the brand, which is rich prints and a “wow” feel, and really taking it to contemporary, fresh ground. Even if a woman is mature, she does not want to feel that way. The key is making her feel special, young, contemporary, and, most of all, confident. This is my constant focus. I’m keeping the collections on par with what’s going on in the ready-to-wear world yet on a “swimwear level,” which is all about fit and technical support while maintaining a “beachwear look.” Gottex has always been the swim experts. Women come to us to look their best on the beach—and we provide both the fashion aspect and the right fit.
What is your goal when designing swimwear?I really [try to] understand what a woman feels like when she goes into the store and buys a swimsuit. I know it’s a challenging moment for women as they feel completely exposed and are seeking a suit that will make them feel confident with their body. When I’m designing, I always aim for many different types of women, not one specific girl. I try to think of their needs and really understand their wish list!
What are the key elements you employ in your designs?I really sympathize with how it feels to go and shop for a swimsuit because you need to feel complete confidence when you’re wearing a piece. The fact that I’m a woman helps me sympathize, naturally! There are a few aspects I employ when designing: First of all, on a technical level, the fit has to be absolutely perfect. On another level is the fashion-awareness level because you want to feel like you’re going to the beach with something that’s beautiful, colorful, special—and you want to feel like everyone is watching you for the right reasons. To me, it’s important to provide the right confidence whether it’s something more revealing or something that’s complete coverage.
What is the special flair you bring to your designs?I have an extensive fine arts and design background, as well as the fact that I illustrate and draw as my main working tool. That artistic feel gives the products depth and richness, which I think is very right for Gottex. It’s all about this beautiful, rich heritage.
What was your inspiration for this collection?It’s a compilation of diverse inspirations. It’s all about color, print and shape—all molded into one product. The collection has an ornamental vibe, which I love—and to me is very Gottex. It’s all about detail. For example, on one print we have delicate touches of gold, which gives a slight shine when in the sun. Or, in another design, the print was inspired by butterfly wings. It’s very abstract—strong, saturated colors. It was taken from a giant version of a butterfly wing and then drawn by hand, so it’s quite rich.
