History and Elegance Reign in Vionnet's Spring Collection
In a nod to the past, French fashion house Vionnet showcased its Spring 2012 runway collection at upscale restaurant Mr. Chow in Beverly Hills.
The Nov. 2 event was presented by Saks Fifth Avenue and hosted by Matteo Marzotto, chairman of Vionnet and former chief executive of Valentino, and Angelique Soave, an analyst with Soave Enterprises.
John Cruz, vice president and general manager of Saks, described the new collection as “so true to the house” and said that Mr. Chow was the perfect setting in which to display it. “It’s a Beverly Hills institution. Our customers love it,” he said.
Historically known for its innovative designs, the label was first started in 1912 by Madeleine Vionnet, the couture designer known as the “queen of the bias” for her bias cut and soft draping that highlighted the curves of a woman’s body. Two years ago, Matteo Marzotto purchased the rights to the brand, which closed in 1939 with the onset of World War II.
The new collection was elegant, yet flirty, and stayed true to its roots with plenty of Grecian-style pleating and draping. Keeping in line with the brand’s history,the label featured ’30s-inspired, floor-length gowns with trains attached at the shoulder and lots of silk and plunging V-necks.
Coral, sky blue and ivory were some of the colors for Spring. Patterns were a mix of color-blocking, floral prints and solids. Cinched waists, tight skirts and form-fitting short dresses were mixed in with box cuts and long, flowing evening gowns.
Some of the pieces were accented by cloth belts, gold buckles or a touch of fur, adding a bit more glamour. Many were accessorized with multicolored strappy sandals, delicate stiletto ankle boots, or jeweled cuffs and beaded chokers.
“You cannot succeed in fashion by remaking what’s already been done,” Marzotto said, explaining the collection. “There is a lot of history to be inspired from, but we’ve interpreted it in a more modern way.”
Unfortunately, much of the Spring collection was sitting in a warehouse in Kentucky because of a customs and shipping issue. Consequently, Spring pieces were mixed in with current Fall looks, Marzotto said.
With the elegance and history of the line so readily intact, it was hard not to imagine former Vionnet clients such as Marlene Dietrich or Greta Garbo dancing across the floor in flowing dresses. More recently, the label has been favored by celebrities such as Madonna.
Guests at the event included actress Abigail Spencer, Crystal Lourd and Joni Smith, chair of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s Costume Council.—Deidre Crawford
