California Apparel News

There were orders placed, but traffic was light throughout the Los Angeles Fashion District during the Aug. 8–11 run of Los Angeles Fashion Market.

Los Angeles’ August market is typically small. It serves a small delivery window—for the Holiday/Resort season—and it’s tightly wedged between other markets, including the massive Las Vegas trade shows.

For some exhibitors, the market provided a chance to check in with a few key buyers.

“The phones are still ringing, and people are still buying,” Carmela Fuccio, men’s sales director for Los Angeles–based premium-denim line Hudson Jeans, said. The company had a good market and landed at least five new accounts, Katherine Mintz, women’s West Coast sales director, said.

For up-and-coming brands, market was anopportunity to make important contacts.

“It’s good for networking, and networking will convert to sales,” said Michael Collins, designer and owner of Leadville, Colo.–based activewear brands Freeride Systems and Prospect Pants Co., showing for the first time at the Focus show at the California Market Center.

CMC forges ahead

The Dow Jones industrial index plunged 513 points on Aug. 10, prompting fears of a setback in the economic recovery. For many of the retailers and exhibitors at market, the news was cause for concern—but not alarm.

“We’ve had enough curveballs,” said Mark Goldstein, owner of prominent boutique chain Madison. “This is just another one. I’m not letting it affect my buying,” he said.

Los Angeles–area boutiques Planet Blue, Fred Segal, LF Stores, Kitson and Polkadots & Moonbeams reportedly shopped the CMC. Nordstrom and hotel retailers Ritz-Carlton, Pechanga Resort & Casino and Harrah’s also browsed the building’s showrooms.

Overall, CMC management considered the show a success. “We saw key retailers this market who left behind great orders, even with the Vegas shows just a couple of weeks away, affirming that this August market is still vital for both brands and buyers in L.A.,” said Joanne Lee, the CMC’s senior vice president, in a statement.

Rep Et Trois showroom owner Michael Gae estimated that retail traffic was lighter than the CMC’s August 2010 market but said he was glad nonetheless for the business at the recent show. “Last week, there was no business,” he said, “This week, there is a market.”

Chamian Renee—who recently opened her CMC showroom for her self-named Chamian Renee line of accessories, apparel and footwear—said market traffic was light for the show. “We’ll reach out to buyers outside of this market,” she said.

Style trends were heavy on outerwear, according to Goldstein. “There’s a big jacket outerwear trend. We bought a lot more jackets than we usually do,” he said. “There’s a lot more color.”

For Kelly Love, buyer for the Six Hundred boutique in downtown Los Angeles, it’s a trendless season. “As long as it is affordable and it is eye-catching, it’s what consumers go for,” she said.

In the middle at The New Mart

Although many showrooms reported being pleasantly surprised by business at market, traffic overall was down at The New Mart. Indeed, this was probably the building’s least-attended market ever, New Mart manager Ethan Eller said.

“Part of it is MAGIC having moved their dates up so far into August,” Eller said. (MAGIC and several satellite trade shows in Las Vegas kick off on Aug. 21. In years past, the giant trade show was held closer to the end of August.)

Despite the slower pace, buzz from the showroom floor was positive.

Lisa Ozur and Suzie Hart, co-owners of Niche showroom, said although it’s slower than other markets, business was better than last year. “It’s been busier for sure,” Ozur said. “People are buying closer in season, and people are here to write orders.”

The showroom carries Dora Landa, Acrobat and Laila Jayde, among other brands, and sells to stores such as Boulmiche in Beverly Hills, Jigsaw and Hot Mama. Animal-print jeans by CJ by Cookie Johnson have been one of their biggest sellers, according to Hart. “Everyone’s buying novelty. It’s all color, prints, sparkle.”

Robert Graham’s new premium-denim line and fall hats had been doing well, according to Mark Kanights, West Coast sales director for the men’s apparel company. He’d been seeing three to four buyers by appointment each day, he said.

Courtney Bradford, a sales account executive for the KLA showroom, said bold colors, nautical themes and faux fur were all big sellers. “August is usually slow, but business has been better than expected,” she said.

Not everyone sees the timing of the August market as a challenge. Stephen Briscoe, a buyer for Estilos boutique, said Market Week saves him work at shows in Las Vegas.

“It’s exciting to see the innovative collections at The New Mart and that it’s not all California trend,” Briscoe said. “I might not even go to Vegas this year.”

Quiet at the Cooper

At the Cooper Design Space, the halls were relatively calm during Los Angeles Fashion Market. Retailers were trickling in, but showroom reps were basically having a quiet market.

“It is immensely slow,” said Amanda Ezra, owner of the Junkyard Showroom, which carries various accessories, from necklaces to handbags. “This has been the worst market.”

She said the timing was off for this particular market because it has heavy competition from the big trade shows in Las Vegas. “Normally, we have eight times the amount of business we’ve had this market,” she said.

Sonja Young, owner of the Cricket Showroom, agreed that this market, which is always the least attended, was slower than normal. “It has been steady but not super busy,” she said.

Fortunately, she was doing well with the dresses in her Susana Monaco line out of New York. The label is known for its Supplex fabric, which is soft and durable. The designer creates her own colorful prints used in maxi dresses, skirts and dresses.

Aimee Moss, owner of the Blue Bird Showroom, said Los Angeles at this time of year is a weaker destination for buyers. “I would say it has been pretty quiet because people are gearing up for Las Vegas,” she said.

Gearless at the Gerry

Showroom reps at the Gerry Building weren’t surprised to see fewer buyers during the recent Los Angeles Fashion Market. Many retailers were either waiting to attend the various upcoming trade shows in Las Vegas or planning to peruse the aisles at the upcoming Fashion Market Northern California in San Mateo, Calif., at the end of August.

“August is always slower,” said Karen Kearns, owner of the Karen Kearns Showroom. “But we were open Sunday, one day before fashion market opened, and had a phenomenal day. The buyers like having Sundays to shop. We saw 14 stores on Sunday.”

Barbara Nogg, owner of the Barbara Nogg Showroom, said she knew what to expect before the August market even opened. “Market is quiet. It always is for August,” she said. “I still feel that buyers are not coming to as many markets as they used to. If they went to five markets before, they are going to three now.”

She described her Market Week as soft but not slow. She was excited on Sunday, the first day she was open. But each day had less and less traffic.

Nonetheless, buyers were trickling in to see her updated lines, such as Equestrian and Petit Pois, her strongest labels.

Showrooms carrying European lines had busier traffic because the deadline for Spring/Summer orders is at the end of September. “With our European lines, it has been very consistent, but with our domestic lines, it has been soft,” said Emmalena Bland of Salt & Pepper Sales.

Bland and her partner, Bea Gorman, were busy working with Sylvie Vidal, a retailer from Carmel, Calif., who was writing paper for Elemente Clemente, a pricy German line with wholesale prices that reach $140. Vidal’s store in Carmel Plaza caters to moneyed residents and tourists alike.

She has spent a lot of time cultivating her repeat customers and giving them advice on how to update their wardrobes at her Sylvie Unique Boutique. She recently opened a second store, with lower price points for a younger customer, at The Barnyard, another Carmel shopping venue.

Designers and Agents turnout slow but steady

Despite the recent economic turmoil, traffic at the Aug. 8–10 run of Designers and Agents seemed on par with previous years, according to exhibitors and show organizers.

“It’s been steady hellip; no surprises,” Barbara Kramer, director of the show, said. “Our numbers are consistent with last year.”

The latest stock-market drop had been weighing on buyers, but most of them “have weathered many storms,” so it did not noticeably impact buyer turnout, she explained.

Ben Deluca, national sales manager for renowned London hat maker Christys’ Hats, said he usually skips the August show but was pleased he attended this year. The label’s bohemian women’s floppy hat was a hit, along with its men’s wool felt fedoras, he said. “It’s been pretty slow, but we just keep on rolling. People are placing orders.”

Peter Russell of premium-denim line Genetic Denim said business had been quieter than other times of year, with only 20 to 25 appointments this show, compared with 150 at the June D&A, but he said that was to be expected because it’s a middle market. Sequined, velvet and faux-leather jeans (cotton denim treated to look like aged leather) were selling well for Holiday 2011, and skinny jeans still make up most of the line’s sales, Russell said.

Starr Gonzales, an account executive for Los Angeles–based Habitual, said it’s good to have face time with local stores when it’s not so hectic. The brand’s color-coated denim and “vegan leather” jeans (which are made from overdyed denim with a resin coating and retail for $242) were both big sellers, according to Gonzales. “People are buying these instead ofspending $600 on a pair of leather pants.”

Dara Gerson of Alkemie jewelry, based in Los Angeles’ Topanga neighborhood, said she always has a good show in Los Angeles and that her ornate jewelry and belt buckles made with 100 percent reclaimed metal were selling well. Buyers wereespecially drawn to her nature-inspired pieces, such as her wraparound starfish cuff bracelet and serpent necklace, she said.

With only 20 exhibitors, the Holiday/Resort D&A is known as a smaller, more intimate event than its Spring shows. “We take a lot of care with who we bring to the show,” Kramer said. “We’ve whittled it down to the best of the best.”

With buyer numbers appearing the same as last year, Kramer said the Holiday/Resort show plateaued this season after 14 years of growth.

Focus’ exposure and orders

It was a small show for Focus, the California Market Center’s gallery exhibition of emerging and established designers, which is produced in the building’s penthouse floor during L.A. Fashion Markets. Despite providing a showcase for merely 12 booths, the show’s emerging brands said it gave them some much-needed exposure.

“I like the size. It’s not too big,” said Freeride Systems’ and Prospect Pants Co.’s Collins. He said he met a Colorado retailer at Focus—one that he not met before despite wholesaling his Colorado-based brands all over the state.

Focus was good for networking and for business, said Kimberly Cayce, owner and designer for Los Angeles–based women’s activewear brand Kalyx. “We didn’t write big orders,” she said, although she added that she did land a few.

Retailers shopping Focus included Elizabeth Allen Atelier, based in La Jolla, Calif.; SixHundred, based in downtown Los Angeles; and Nouvelle Adornments, a e-commerce retailer based in Orange County, Calif. “It was very small,” Nouvelle Adornments President Jennifer A. Green said about the show. “I expected a few more vendors. But I made good contacts.”Immediates sell at Select

Despite light traffic, many of the exhibitors at the Select show said they landed orders at the Aug. 8–10 show. Produced by the CMC, the 30-booth show was held in the building’s Fashion Theater.

“We’re seeing a lot of repeat customers,” said Gillian Julius, who owns and manages Los Angeles–based accessories label Gillian Julius. “We’re confident about quantity of orders. They have not cut back.”

Retailers shopping at Select said their customers are still shopping. “They’re buying less-expensive things. But they’re still buying,” said Dena Ross, owner of the Mira boutique in Santa Fe, N.M.

Retailers were mostly interested in placing immediate orders, said Merci Borden, owner of Studio City, Calif.–based accessories line Merci Marie. She estimated 80 percent of her customers placed at-once orders and 20 percent placed orders for more than one month out.

Competition from the upcoming MAGIC trade show cut into Select’s business, said Steve Waller of the Royal Plush fashion label. “One of our regular customers just asked for immediate orders. She said, ’For new product, I’ll see you at MAGIC.’”

New York–based Minnie Rose reported good business at Select, including landing an order from high-profile Los Angeles boutique Madison.

“It’s always an amazing show,” said Minnie Rose sales executive Nina Frank. “I make appointments, and they come in and make orders.”Appointment-driven at Lady Liberty and 824

For many showrooms at the Lady Liberty building and the 824 Building, located in the first block north of the intersection of Ninth and Los Angeles streets, appointments were key.

“In the end, it proved to be a more successful market than we had originally anticipated—considering the number of shows concentrated in this six-week period,” said Eric Martin, founder of The Park showroom, which operates two showrooms—one for men’s and one for women’s—in the Lady Liberty Building.

Martin said he primarily saw local retailers but also met with several Japanese accounts and “a couple European customers who flew in.”

“A lot of customers want to avoid the hustle of the Vegas trade shows and knock out the better brands early,” he said.

It was a quiet market for Room4 Agency at the 824 Building because none of the lines carried in the showroom produce resort collections. But several of the showroom’s regular customers stopped by, according to co-owner Emilie Cooke, who said she saw more buyers from out of state than local stores.

“We did see JMR from Salt Lake City, also a store from Colorado,” she said. “Mostly accounts from other states who are trying to get their buys out of the way before Vegas.”

It was a similar story for Andy Hori, owner of AMH showroom in the 824 Building. AMH carries more men’s lines than women’s, and Hori said August is “mostly a women’s market.”

For August, AMH had new lines, including the newly redesigned Civil Society; Kane & Unke; and two T-shirt lines, Casualties of Sumer and Beach Life.

“Most people are going to Vegas,” he said. “But all our appointments who said they’d come by show up.”