California Apparel News

SAN FRANCISCO—Freezing in summer, sometimes balmy in the fall, the weather in San Francisco is famously unpredictable. Fortunately for the clothiers of one of the city’s top boutique neighborhoods, Hayes Valley, San Franciscans have established a style that might be as predictable as the fog that rolls into the city each day.

“A minimal, industrial look is very San Francisco,” said Keyvan Behnia, owner of Nomads, the oldest fashion boutique in Hayes Valley, located at 556 Hayes St.

Another high-profile Hayes Valley retailer, Cathy Chow of the boutique Azalea, located at 411 Hayes St., and e-commerce boutique Tobi.com, said the frequently cool weather sets perimeters for San Francisco style. Shorts and cropped pants rarely sell in city limits. Scarves and jackets are a safe bet year-round. “Because of the weather people are looking for year-round basics,” she said. “People like comfort and value.”

But San Franciscans always seem ready to throw their full support behind the city’s culture, she said. Some of the top-selling items at Azalea are shirts and windbreakers by Martin, a San Francisco label that debuted in 2009.

Martin specifically outfits the outlaw subculture of San Francisco bike messengers. This group was documented in the underground film “Mash,” which was made by Michael Martin, a photographer who is also the designer for the new clothing line. The Martin label’s gray pin striped woven shirt retails for $128, and it features an extra-long shirt-tail. The extra cloth guards against the messengers exposing themselves when they bend over on their bikes.

Martin also offers windbreakers with reflective piping and extra-long hoods that serve as added protection from the rain.

Comfort with a stylish edge also sells well at Azalea. The “Moth” coat from organic Portland, Ore., line Prairie Underground has been popular. It is constructed out of organic cotton and has drawstring ruching, which gives it an avant-garde look. It retails for $253.

Basic styles are also a perennial favorite at Azalea. A $49 women’s cowl-neck T-shirt from James Perse is a top seller at the store. Stylish knit shirts of the Sonia By Sonia Rykiel label retail for $225 and also seem to fit the Bay Area customer’s needs. “They’re cute and classic. They can be worn for any occasion,” Chow said.

One of Azalea’s best-selling denim styles is the A.P.C. brand’s “New Standard” jean, which retails for $165. The straight-leg dark indigo jean has no embellishments. In February, Azalea will be debuting a 300-square-foot shop-in-shop for Nudie Jeans within the 3,000-square-foot store. Azalea will also unveil its newly remodeled look at the same time.

Cold weather and stylish, utilitarian looks inspire styles at Nomads, a men’s fashion store. Behnia, a former music director of KCSB, University of California, Santa Barbara’s radio station, has been running the Hayes Valley store since 1990. Medium-weight outerwear always is in style for the tech geeks, architects and skate punks who shop at Nomads. G-Star’s “Reyes Razor Quilted Overshirt” has been retailing well at $210. Swedish label Dunderdon’s wool zip jacket is also selling well at $189.

Nomads sells sportswear by venerable U.K. brand Fred Perry. Also selling well are the Western-style shirts from Nomads, Behnia’s label, which he manufactures near his second home in Merida, the capital city in Mexico’s Yucataacute;n state. They cost $99.

One of Hayes Valley’s most fashion-forward boutiques is Dish, located at 541 Hayes St. and owned by designer Desiree Alexander. Dish’s manager, Sherise Eways, another fashion designer, said her customer is inspired by a boho-chic look and unique styles. One top-selling item is Loeffler Randall’s wool-felt sweater coat, which retails for $612.

Dresses from By Malene Birger have sold well for $550. Citizens of Humanity’s “Riley Boyfriend” jean also retailed well at $238.

Acrimony is another Hayes Valley store that stresses stylish clothes that are fashion-forward. Owner Jenny Chung opened her current boutique, located at 333 Hayes St., in September 2009 and called it Acrimony as a protest against homogenization of the world’s retail neighborhoods. Her store has lived up to its aspirations by offering fashions from emerging labels.

Top-selling items for men included the quilted chambray vest from Vancouver, B.C., label Horns & Wings. It retails for $288. Also popular are Gitman Vintage shirts. A woven shirt in madras flannel retails for $163.

Also popular are woven shirts from Japanese labels United Bamboo and Nom de Guerre. Their core price points are $198 and $260, respectively.

A double-lapel blazer by Korean label Kaylee Tankus retails for $315. A “Dreamcatcher” skirt, constructed out of beads and feathers, retails for $285 and is made by Cheap Monday designer Ann-Sofie Back.

Another San Francisco fashion destination is the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood. Once famous for being the center of 1968’s “Summer of Love,” many of the Bay Area’s stylish people go there to buy premium fashions at Villains Vault, located at 1653 Haight St. The store is one of a trio of Villains boutiques, which have been inspiring San Francisco fashion for more than 20 years.

Villains, the chain’s streetwear boutique, was damaged in a fire in December and is scheduled to reopen in June, said Villains co-manager Manger Huebner. The company’s third store, Villains Shoes, continues to thrive. According to Villains co-manager Jessica Dega, the Haight stores must follow the same fashion rules that guide Hayes Valley stores. “San Francisco is casual. They want function over fashion. But they’ll spend on style,” Dega said.

Popular jeans at Villains Vault have been Nudie’s “Thin Finn” jeans. Price points range from $170 to $275. Other popular jeans are by French brand April 77, which retail for $115 to $130.

Basics by Alternative Apparel have also been selling well. They retail from $14 to $40. Also popular are sweat shirts and T-shirts by Los Angeles–based Ever. Their price points range from $60 to $175. Ever’s leather jackets retail for $850.

Some San Francisco culture may be going global. Haight skate shop For The City is scheduled to debut a store in Barcelona this spring. Closer to its Haight headquarters, at 1632 Haight St., its outerwear collaboration with snowboard label Burton has been selling well. The FTC Burton collaboration retails for $225.