Newbies Stick Close to Home
For Wellen and Astronot, two fledgling Los Angeles–based brands, domestic production is a challenge and a boon as they strive to find their place in the competitive menswear market.
Matt Jung launched Wellen—a Glendale, Calif.–based line of surf-tinged T-shirts, hoodies, denim, walk shorts and wovens—in 2009 with no prior apparel experience and a big dose of do-it-yourself attitude. Suft Sidhu and her brother, Neil Sidhu, are fashion newbies who launched Astronot, a men’s premium T-shirt line this year, making their first-ever shipment to Ron Herman in May.
For both brands, each season is a learning experience—and one lesson the people behind both brands are eager to master is how to be successful even as they learn the ropes.
“We’re outsiders,” Suft Sidhu said. “That’s a challenge, but it also allows us to have an open mind about design. We have a willingness to play and do things that might be considered wrong but that work for us.”
Like many other small brands, Astronot doesn’t have the volume to justify overseas production of its ring-spun-cotton, custom-dyed T-shirts. But that has never been the goal, Sidhu said. “Producing in Los Angeles reflects who we are as individuals. We’re detail-oriented and obsessive. We want to keep a tight grasp on everything—fit, color and turnaround.” Working closely with contractors and being present day-to-day helps the siblings/designers find inspiration for the line, she said. “The idea is that you can’t outsource creativity.”
There is a considerable price to pay for the luxury of domestic production, Sidhu concedes. Astronot, which requires contractors to develop custom colors for the brand and apply a two-part softening process to the T-shirts, wholesales for $14 to $16—a low range compared with competitors with similar offerings. Sidhu said she and her brother keep prices low to position Astronot competitively and entice buyers to place orders. “It is worth it to us; we’re willing to take that hit,” she said.
Wellen’s Jung has divided the production of his line between domestic and overseas contractors. T-shirts, while dyed and printed domestically, are purchased in bulk from a foreign manufacturer. The brand’s first-ever denim collection was also produced overseas—an experience Jung said he isn’t keen to relive. “I tried overseas manufacturing, and I really didn’t like it. In future seasons, we’ll find a way to make jeans here.” The rest of Wellen’s offerings are produced in Orange County, Calif., at an “off-the-radar” contractor whose identity, Jung said, he jealously guards.
For Jung, domestic manufacturing has proven to be a boon. “Our factory can make almost anything we need at the best quality,” he said. Knowing that the quality of his goods will be consistent and good helps him earn the trust of retailers such as American Rag, Swell.com and Thalia Surf. But there is a price to pay. “I know we’re probably not getting the best deal, but they give us confidence in what we do. Contractors—really good contractors—can be hard to find,” he said.
While he likes the idea of bringing his T-shirt production stateside, Jung said doing so would take a bite out of his business. “We have super-slim margins on our wovens and flannels and other items. T-shirts give us the biggest margins; they’re our bread and butter. If we made them here, we would have to raise our prices or narrow that margin a lot.” The brand, whose T-shirts retail for up to $38, is already among the most expensive at the surf shops that make up the bulk of its distribution.—Erin Barajas
