California Apparel News

Corinne Grassini, the Los Angeles–based designer behind the Society for Rational Dress brand, is fresh off a multi-city tour to show Barneys New York sales reps how her clothes work. With unique draping and unexpected straps and hardware, Grassini’s designs—much like her approach to the fashion business—are unconventional and the better for it. Now, as others fret over the state of the economy, Grassini is embarking on a handful of new endeavors, including The Reserve, an appointment-only retail store, and partnerships with Gen Art and Barneys.

“I don’t see the benefit of being negative all the time,” she said. “My strategy has always been based upon creating situations in which I can work with friends and grow the business from the ground up—to surround myself with friends and have fun.”

For Spring 2009, Grassini partnered with Barneys to produce a private-label line, Society for Rational Dress Exclusively for Barneys. Delivered in February to nearly 20 Barneys Co-op locations across the country, the capsule collection featured two spun-rayon jersey blouses embellished with Grassini’s signature leather straps and antique-brass hardware and chains. “They are similar to pieces that have done well for us in the past and fit right in with the rest of our collection,” Grassini said. Retailing at $155—a lower price point than Society’s collection—the Barneys capsule is attractive both to the retailer (which ordered 2,000 units for the first delivery) and to the consumer.

“People are looking for interesting product that is versatile. You could wear these tops to work and out at night. The price point is very sharp—that is something people are really noticing these days,” said Megshy;an Mitchell, senior buyer for Barneys Co-op. “It is a designer look at a very approachable price point. Society for Rational Dress is very original. There can be a sense of sameness with a lot of lines, but not with Society for Rational Dress. She has her own distinctive voice.”

Grassini, who produced the tops in four colorways, said collaborations such as this one with Barneys have served her 5-year-old brand well. In the past she has produced private-label lines for retailers such as Los Angeles–based Satine’s Tokyo location, Naked, Nave and New High (M)art. “As a designer, I love doing collaborations. They take me out of my normal, everyday design process,” Grassini said. And they make business sense for her young brand. “Depending on the collaboration, they can be a great way to grow the brand or get our name out there. The Barneys collaboration is taking us to the next level. They are such a well-known and well-respected retailer, it can only help us. We are very fortunate to have the opportunity.” There is potential that Barneys may pick up the collaboration for future seasons—something Grassini said would be very welcome in these tough economic times.Retail laboratory

The Reserve, Society’s new appointment-only retail store, debuts March 14. Located in the foyer of the brand’s design studio and headquarters in the arts district of downtown Los Angeles, The Reserve will feature one-of-a-kind creations, reworked overstock items (shoes get belts and chains swapped out, or buckles, straps and zippers added or removed; blouses and dresses are belted, redyed and undergo all manner of transformations), and new and best-selling silhouettes cut from past-season fabrics and adorned with surplus trim.

“This is where we work. All of our samples are made here, all of the design work is done here—the energy of the collection is here,” Grassini said. She envisions using the space as a test lab for the brand, gauging customers’ reactions to her creations and using it for inspiration. “The clothes tend to be so versatile and allow for so much individuality, it will be interesting to see firsthand what women do with it,” she said. Grassini also hopes to use The Reserve as a test lab for fit, something Grassini takes great pains to perfect. “I’m very interested in seeing how the clothes work on different body types and how I can better dress different bodies,” she said.

The space also allows Grassini to exercise other creative muscles. “I’ve always had a love for architecture and furniture design,” Grassini said. To furnish The Reserve, Grassini whipped up stools made from blocks of wood, leather straps and sheepskin as well as a free-standing dressing room that features vintage hinges.

The designer, who acknowledges that times are very tough, said an in-house retail operation is a good, cost-effective way for her to move product that has been left in the lurch by store closures or retailers who can no longer accept her goods. Grassini estimates her store roster has been shrinking by approximately one door a week. “Thankfully, having our own retail space is not an added expense. We’re using our existing resources and space; we’re not adding another staff member,” she said. An online retail portal is slated to open later this year.Rational on the runway

It seems fitting that Grassini, with her hopeful outlook, should be part of the kickoff to this month’s Los Angeles Fashion Week.

On March 13, Gen Art (which featured Society in its 2004 New Garde presentation) and show producer BOXeight join forces to present a runway show at the Los Angeles Theatre. Society for Rational Dress, designer Raquel Allegra and GRAI are slated to show their Fall 2009 collections on the runway. Billed as a way to revitalize Los Angeles Fashion Week, the Gen Art/BOXeight show is open to press, buyers and the public. BOXeight hosts shows at the Los Angeles Theatre March 13–15.

“We’re excited to participate,” Grassini said. “Runway shows are a great way for us to showcase the brand and control our image. It’s going to be a great show.”