California Apparel News

Despite the economy and slumping retail sales, denim continues to be among the few strong performers. So much so, in fact, that some designers are creating non-denim brands to sell alongside blue jeans.

Los Angeles–based Alexis Frey and Michael Choi grew up in the garment industry; their families partnered in an overseas trading company that produces garments for brands such as J. Crew, Guess? Inc., Volcom and the like. The two young entrepreneurs have partnered to launch Life/After/Denim, a collection of modern menswear that, with its casual classic vibe, is the perfect foil for denim.

“We identified a niche in the market. There are plenty of great denim brands—we don’t need to compete in that area. Our angle is non-denim pieces at [an affordable] price point that are stylish and accessible and pair well with denim,” Choi said. “Guys already have a favorite pair of jeans. We want to be what they wear with those jeans.”

Debuting for Fall 2009, the collection includes slim-fitting woven shirts in a variety of fabrications, chinos, striped crew-neck sweaters and cardigans, prep-school blazers with built-in hoodies, plaid bomber jackets, and fitted cotton vests. Spring 2010 will see the addition of sleeveless woven shirts, shorts, leather and warm-weather pieces. Not a stitch of denim is found in the entire collection, and that is how it will stay, Frey, the brand’s design director, said.

The target demographic, Frey said, is young men aged 25–35 who appreciate aesthetics and have a taste for sophisticated, modern but not trendy clothing. Choi, who describes himself as “not a shopper,” thinks he fits into that category. “I like versatile pieces that are stylish but still approachable—and I think that’s what we’ve succeeded in creating,” he said.

Shirts have emerged as a key category for Life/After/Denim, as have the twill chinos, which are cut slim and are brushed with ceramic for a buttery hand. “The feeling of classic comfort and modern casualness [that consumers identify with denim] is there. Guys need choices like these,” Frey said.

Pricing is a key focus for the pair, who hope to reach $1 million in sales for 2009. Wholesale prices range from $32.50 for woven shirts to $40 for chinos, $44.50 for hoodies and $76 for outerwear. For Urban Outfitters, which will sell Life/After/Denim online, the brand created a diffusion line that is more competitively priced to sell in the retailer’s bricks-and-mortar stores. Other retailers that will carry the line when it ships in August are Nordstrom, Planet Blue and a selection of better specialty stores.

Young but seasoned

Choi and Frey use their families’ overseas connections and facilities to produce the line as economically as possible.

“Having our families in the business is a great advantage. They are based in Hong Kong and have been in the industry about 30 years. Michael and I grew up in the business, so we’re young, but we know how it works,” Frey said. Choi agrees, saying having grown up in the apparel industry allows them to be passionate about the line while still retaining the ability to make the hard choices with which many newbies struggle.

The support of their family business gives Frey and Choi flexibility and resources not generally available to fledgling brands. Fabric sourcing and manufacturing is done through the family company—something that could eliminate many of the production issues that young brands struggle with and retailers dread. Their family support also gives them the ability to manage projects such as the diffusion line for Urban Outfitters—which expands their distribution options. “The economy isn’t great, but there are so many opportunities. We are well-positioned to offer quality at a price point,” Choi said.