Glamour and Decadence Rule at Salon International de la Lingerie
Lingerie buyers are scaling back on travel expenses, creating an impact on attendance at the 45th edition of the Salon International de la Lingerie show in Paris, which saw a 22 percent decline in turnout over last year. According to a statement by the show producers, brands sent smaller buying teams and international players slashed travel budgets this season. Still, the Jan. 18–21 show drew more than 20,000 visitors, with 39 percent hailing from France and 61 percent from 102 countries, including Italy, Germany, the United Kingdom, Belgium, Spain, Japan, the Netherlands, the United States, Switzerland and Greece.
The adjoining fabric show, Interfiliegrave;re, saw a total of more than 11,000 visitors, with buyers from top brands such as Calvin Klein, Le Mystegrave;re, Victoria’s Secret, La Perla, Valery, Maryan Beachwear, Aubade, Barbara, Chantal Thomass and Princesse Tam Tam in attendance.
Lingerie designers offered a fantastical escape into decadence, glamour and luxury for the runway show, which was organized by three trend groups.
In “Bio Glamour,” cozy knit robes, slouchy coverup cardigans, loose lounge pants, chemises and lingerie combined extremes of “textures and volumes,” “casual luxury,” “density and transparence,” and “rustic and refined.”
The “Contemporary Obsession” section, which was in mostly black (from slick silk charmeuse to sheer lace), was influenced by Art Nouveau, streetwear and raw nature with “decoration in 3-D.”
Designers layered on the bells and whistles for “Decadence Baroque,” which was “all about pleasure enjoyment, opulence celebrating liberated seduction.” Colorful lingerie with transparent lace, and embroidered embellishment came in vintage silhouettes and a theme of “false modesty” and “adventure mood.”
The annual Ultra Lingerie fashion show on Jan. 19 showcased looks centered around the theme of “Gourmet Indulgence.” About 850 guests turned out to see the runway and awards show, which showcased designs born from partnerships between the fabric show, Interfiliegrave;re’s textile specialists and lingerie brands. —Rhea Cortado
