L.E.A.F. Asks For One Eco-Standard
A Santa Monica, Calif.–based nonprofit would like to become a definitive seal of approval for the eco-fashion business. On Aug. 24, it asked the public and fashion companies on how it could make sense out of the sometimes confusing world of certifying organic fashion.
The nonprofit, Labeling Ecologically Approved Fabrics (L.E.A.F.), formally requested public and industry review and comment on its new Web site, www.leafcertified.org. L.E.A.F. founder Elinor Averyt started the venture to give fashion designers a chance to definitively prove to consumers their garments have crossed every T in the production of organic garments.
“We want them to look at the guidelines and tell us if they think it will work. We want to ask, ’Do you agree with all of this?’” she said of her consumer labeling initiative. L.E.A.F.’s comment period is scheduled to end Nov. 24.
L.E.A.F. aims to simplify the organic-certification process, invite more people into the organic fashion world, and give both an American alternative and a complement to European-based certification group Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS).
Some eco-designers have complained that GOTS is too strict with its certification process, according to Averyt. In response, L.E.A.F. is considering offering two levels of certification to American designers. Its basic certification level, called “Seed,” is for designers who meet just one or a few of GOTS’ exacting standards. The top certification level, called “Leaf,” is reserved for groups that have met all of GOTS’ standards.
GOTS’ standards begin with proving a garment’s fabrics are indeed organic. Then organic labels must demonstrate their garments were constructed in an eco-friendly factory. The factory also has to be certified as a place that treats its workers well and gives them a fair wage.
There are more than 12 certification groups with which American eco-designers can work. Many of them certify as organic just one aspect of a garment, such as its fabric. Averyt hoped her organization could inspect all of the different groups’ certifications and offer one overarching certification that could label a garment as completely organic. Averyt said L.E.A.F. is in talks with GOTS and other certification groups, such as Organic Exchange, on possible collaboration.
An Organic Exchange representative confirmed Averyt has contacted the group. However, Organic Exchange has not said that it will participate in L.E.A.F., said Anne Gillespie, director of industry integrity for Organic Exchange. “I have been very impressed by her thoroughness in thinking through this program and following up with all of the concerned players,” Gillespie said.
For its certification program, L.E.A.F. plans to award certification based on appraisal of a company’s organic-certification documentation. L.E.A.F. would confirm the certification documents with the fashion companies and the certification bodies.
In return for proof of certification, designers will be able to use L.E.A.F’s “seal of approval” on their hangtags. Some owners of eco-fashion labels seemed to welcome L.E.A.F.’s ideas. “It could create a perception of higher quality,” said Frank Angiuli, president of brand Natural High Lifestyle, based in Santa Monica.
Isaac Nichelson, president of Topanga, Calif.–based eco-brand Livity Outernational, said L.E.A.F. could help plead the case of eco-fashion to the public. “Younger generations are beginning to look at fashion hangtag labels like people inspect their food labels. The hangtags will teach them why organic fashion is a good thing,” he said.
In 2010, Livity will institute a new program, called Livity Levels, in which all the organic materials and production methods used to construct their garments will be listed on its hangtags.—Andrew Asch
