New York Fashion Week Spring '09: Juan Carlos Obando
NEW YORK—As an art director and fashion designer, Juan Carlos Obando translates his ability to tell a story into his clothing. For Spring, the designer was inspired by the work of Mathew Barney and Tara Donovan to create his collection, shown Sept. 11 at New York Fashion Week. He channeled the raw beauty of their artwork into hand-sewn and pleated “armor” crop tops, belts and sheer dresses with appliqueacute; treatments. The intricate handmade elements were juxtaposed with simple shapes such as cropped Japanese linen trousers or a chiffon gown. Obando focused on textile manipulation and old-school hand-stitching techniques—skills learned from working with small sewing communities of women in Colombia and a pleating company in downtown Los Angeles. Though detailed and artful, the midriff-baring pieces felt more like an art project than wearable clothing. Gowns were a continuation of his signature hanger dress and the one-shoulder styles with asymmetric back straps he created last season—albeit with an organza flounce on the shoulder or a colorful panel at the hemline. —N. Jayne Seward
