New York Fashion Week Spring '09: Academy of Art University
NEW YORK—Student shows always bring a refreshing perspective to the fashion runway. And the Academy of Art University proved itself on the forefront of innovative design when the design school presented the Spring ’09 collections of recent graduates on Sept. 5 at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. The work of 15 grads were shown in eight womenswear and three menswear collections. For the very first time, two online grads, Ali Kahn and Elena Akoulova, presented their collections in the show. This was the fifth showing in the Bryant Park tents for the San Francisco-based school. “We view this opportunity as part of our commitment to launch the careers of our graduates, and these young designers have a show that is essentially a live interview to the national and international fashion community who are in town during this time,” said Dr. Elisa Stephens, president of the university, in a statement.
Students focused on innovative fabrications and design techniques to create their collections. Anne Jones and Michelle Clarke collaborated on a collection inspired by a nature versus artificiality theme and a play on light. Dynamic over-sized sequined dresses and tops were created by utilizing a heat-transfer process that applied a stained glass effect to Mylar. Desiree Daniels focused on the art of design, working intricate seaming and pleating details into her collection inspired by suspension bridges and the sculptures of artist Naum Gabo.
Oversized silhouettes in Jaime Cole’s menswear collection were fresh and exciting, combining a street-art influence with Native American graphics. Accessories are a strong focus this season, and accessory designer and sculptor Mike Feeney took a futuristic approach. He created avant-garde acrylic shoulder pieces, necklaces and handbags to accent Warot Subsrisunjai’s monochromatic geometric silhouettes. Day-glo yarn and reflective ribbons were Daniel Emir Armosilla’s ode to the energetic and carefree California lifestyle. The designer translated the electric palette into a refreshing collection of geometric-print knit tunics and over-sized sweaters made from bamboo.
Other collections were creative yet focused on marketability such as Elena Akoulova’s simple sorbet-colored A-line dress collection inspired by orchids. And Ali Khan and Sook-yeong Kwon’s collaborative menswear collection that offered a clever mix of hipster silhouettes, bold colors and high tech surface treatments. —N. Jayne Seward
