Enuke to Head Women's Design at Monarchy
It’s an unlikely pairing, but one that could result in a powerhouse brand.
On Sept. 2, denim maven Kristopher Enuke joined Los Angeles–based denim and sportswear maker Monarchy to become its head of women’s design. Enuke, who makes intricately fitted premium denim with his wife, Amy, under the Oligo Tissew label, recently left his post as creative director of Seattle-based Union. Now, Monarchy founder Erik Kim has tasked him to build a women’s division for the label that matches its quickly maturing men’s offerings. The men’s side has seen marked growth—most recently debuting a more high-end, sophisticated label, Monarchy Black.
“That’s all going to change now,” Kim said. “Kristopher represents an entirely new design direction for our women’s collection.” Under Enuke’s design direction, Monarchy’s women’s offerings will grow to include a full array of sportswear and denim. Kim, who oversees the design and production of Monarchy’s men’s offerings, has effectively washed his hands of the women’s collection—as far as design goes. “We’ll give him whatever he needs and support his vision, but in the end, this is his responsibility. Monarchy [men’s] is my baby; this has to be his,” he said. In the end, Kim envisions the women’s collection to rival the men’s collection in size and scope. “Kristopher’s is the biggest design role at Monarchy.”
Kim acknowledged that his aesthetic and that of Enuke are different but said their approach to design is similar. “We speak the same technical language, so he has full artistic license.”
Monarchy, he said, is “overcooked” and full of military references, design details and graphics; Monarchy Black is “undercooked” with high-end fabrications that need little embellishment. Enuke, who has shown his lush knitwear and meticulously tailored denim on the runway during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios in Culver City, Calif., for several years, is known for his trademark English Dandy–meets–urban warrior look. Decked out in custom jodhpurs, riding boots and fitted jackets, Enuke turns out high-end sexy, body-conscious styles that take inspiration from imaginary worlds as well as far-off lands. In his new position, Enuke must marry his personal vision with Monarchy’s brand identity.
Enuke, who cut his teeth at brands such as BCBGMax Azria and AG by Adriano Goldschmied, says he’s up to the challenge. “I have to take into consideration the history and character they’ve built into the men’s line, but the design is such that I can’t take it piece-meal into the women’s category—and I wouldn’t do that,” Enuke said. “My design has to be true to Monarchy, but fresh and unique.” That means injecting the design aesthetic that has served him well and developing the cult following among editors and specialty buyers for Oligo Tissew. “The price point and market is such that I can accommodate those special touches,” he said. “There will definitely be a lot of my own design aesthetic in the line. That is why they hired me. But I must also keep the texture of Monarchy. I am very excited about what I see here.”
Enuke’s commitment to his new post is considerable. For the meantime, he has shelved his efforts for Oligo Tissew. “I don’t want my attentions divided,” he said. Amy, his wife and design partner, may continue to independently produce T-shirts under the Oligo Tissew label.
The first signs of Enuke’s influence at Monarchy will be apparent in the Summer 2009 collection, but the full scope of his vision for the brand will debut for the Fall 2009 season. In the works are denim, sexy tops, soft leather pieces, classic Enuke knits, dresses and outerwear. Eventually, there are hopes that Enuke will design Monarchy Black for women.
Hiring Enuke is the latest in Monarchy’s maneuvers to become the American Diesel. The Italian apparel giant is an inspiration and goal. “Not in aesthetic, but from a marketing and lifestyle perspective,” Kim said.
Last August, Chicago-based Hartmarx Corp. acquired Monarchy for $12 million. At the time of the purchase, Monarchy, which debuted in 2005 with men’s premium denim, sold at more than 800 upscale specialty stores nationwide. Sales at the company tripled from 2005 to 2006 and were expected to contribute as much as $25 million to $30 million in revenues to Hartmarx this year.n
