California Apparel News

MIAMI BEACH, Fla—The mood inside the Miami Beach Convention Center was as bright and sunny as the skies outside for the July 19–22 run of the Swimwear Association of Florida’s SwimShow 2009 (For additional photos from SwimShow 2009, click here). A combination of warm weather, brand launches and retailer confidence seemed to trounce the weak economy, which has been affecting the apparel industry. Helping add to the feel-good vibe was Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim, orchestrated by producer IMG Fashion, held July 17–21 at nearby The Raleigh Hotel.

“Retailers haven’t been cautious [with their buys]. The weather has been warm, and specialty-store sales are product-driven. They need to bring in new trends. In tough times, fashion, not basics, motivates spending,” said Howie Greller, president of Gardena, Calif.–based Blue Water Design Group, a division of Apparel Ventures. “We win in this sort of environment because we stick our necks out and take risks. It’s a thrill ride for us.”

At SwimShow 2009, Blue Water debuted a new licensed swim collection for ABS by Allan Schwartz. Inspired by Schwartz’s lightning-quick, designer-inspired fashion, the swim collection focuses on fashion-driven styles. “We’re bringing his sensibility to swimwear. It’s all about affordable luxury and the newest trends,” Greller said. Ikat prints, ditsy flowers, animal prints and ’80s art-house paint splashes combine with skimpy cuts in the collection. The debut Resort 2009 collection represents one of Blue Water’s risks, Greller said, and one that he is confident will pay off. A test shipment in July was successful, and retailers responded well to the ABS concept. “It looks like a home run.”

Raj Manufacturing debuted Luxe, its new high-end sportswear-inspired collection, to rave reviews at the show. “In times of economic uncertainty, that is the time to try new things and be more innovative,” said Alex Bhathal, Raj’s co-president. The latest news, hot off the show floor, however, is that the Tustin, Calif.–based manufacturer has just signed a multi-year global license to produce swimwear and coverups for Ella Moss, a contemporary Los Angeles brand known for its jersey dresses and tops. “It will be a designer contemporary line and part of our luxury division, which includes St. John Swimwear and Luxe,” Bhathal said. Ella Moss Swimwear will debut with the Cruise 2009 season. Raj—which also produces swimwear under the Hurley, Guess, Tommy Hilfiger, O’Neill and Athena labels—has been looking to enter the contemporary designer category for some time, said Lisa Bhathal Vogel, Raj’s co-president.

Ellipse, a 12-year-old high-end Colombian swimwear brand in its first year distributing in the United States, took a risk by lowering its wholesale prices to better compete in the American market. “It is definitely challenging at this time. Retailers are looking for a wholesale range of $30 to $40—and our prices were closer to $40 to $80 for a set. We lowered our prices so we could see some movement,” said Aram Sahakian, president of Leontina, Ellipse’s U.S. distributor. With its custom prints and high-end fabrications, Ellipse is hoping to land in specialty boutiques and upscale department stores. Contemporary chain and online retailer Anthropologie will carry the line—something Sahakian hopes is a sign of things to come.

Surf brand Lost brought its year-old swimwear collection to SwimShow for the first time and enjoyed plenty of interest from swimwear shops, department stores and online retailers. “It has been a really great show for us,” said Lost Girls National Sales Manager Lindsay Henkels. Other surf brands continued to make inroads into SwimShow, as well. Insight, the Australian surf/skate brand, made its SwimShow debut. Reef, Volcom, Hot Tuna, Rip Curl, Rusty and Roxy rounded out surf’s expanding roster at the show.

Los Angeles–based designer brands Kushcush by Kerry Cushman and Jungle Gurl debuted two lower-priced collections to complement their pricier offerings.

Kushcush Pink Label is Cushman’s nod to retailers who love her feminine designs but need a lower price point. “It’s a natural progression for the brand and falls in line with what our customer wants and needs,” she said, and buyers reacted positively to the bifurcation. While Pink Label is more playful and girly, Kushcush’s signature line skewed a little more sophisticated, with demure prints and upscale details. Wholesale prices for Pink Label range from $25 to $32. Wholesale prices for Kushcush by Kerry Cushman range from $37 to $42.

Jungle Gurl, Natalie Golonka’s line of trim bikinis made from vintage garments, debuted its little-sister line, Junglegurl, at the show. Golonka found that many stores loved her prints but couldn’t afford her $100 to $120 wholesale prices. In response, she had fabric made that mimicked some of her favorite vintage prints and built a new, more-affordable collection around it. With new silhouettes—including the one-pieces that ate up too much fabric to be part of the vintage line—and price points that fall within the $50 to $60 range, Golonka hopes to appeal to a broad range of retailers. “This collection can hang in a variety of stores, from swim shops to boutiques and department stores,” she said. “I feel really good about it. There is plenty of opportunity in the swim industry.”