Fashion With an Eastern Perspective
HONG KONG—A four-day lineup of fashion shows at Hong Kong Fashion Week, held July 8–11, had everything from ethereal dresses to straight-laced women’s business suits.
But taking center stage this season was Chinese designer Sheguang Hu, who now lives in Holland. He was the only designer to have an independent show at Hong Kong Fashion Week, which doubles as a trade show for primarily Chinese and Hong Kong apparel companies and factories.
Missing this summer were Cecilia Yau, Peter Lau and Ika, all Asian designers who have been steadfast about participating in the catwalk.
One factor keeping designers away, Ika said, was a change in the fashion show format. In the past, show organizers have charged designers a straight $10,250 for a show, which includes models, hair, makeup and venue.
This year, the cost went down to $2,500, but that only included renting the runway. All other expenses had to be paid by the designers, many of whom came from out of the country.
In addition, the show’s organizers decided they would vote on which designers would be showing their collections, angering veteran designers such as Ika, a top-notch creator who has been showing her high-end collection at Hong Kong Fashion Week since 1985. “I’m a senior designer. If they don’t need me, then I’ll take my business elsewhere,” said the Indonesian-born fashion designer, whose company, Butoni Ltd., is headquartered in Hong Kong. “I feel very insulted.”
She was invited with four other designers to show her fashions on July 12 at Taipei in Style 2008, part of a show organized by the Taiwan Textile Federation.
Hu, who has created couture designs for the Dutch royal family, borrowed from his blue-blood connections for his fashion show, called “Future Queen,” an elaborate tale of a queen who survives an uprising and brings peace and happiness to her world.
For the show, Hu created enormous headdresses in the shape of rams’ horns that topped models’ heads in vibrant colors such as bright red, shiny black, gold and silver to match the elegant dresses seen on the catwalk. His evening gowns were full-skirted and flowing. His short dresses used geometric designs and simple silhouettes for sophistication.
Returning to the Hong Kong fashion scene was a faithful group of South Korean designers who are a regular staple of Hong Kong Fashion Week. There were two Supreme Corea Artist Fashion Shows, featuring designers such as An Yoon-Jung, whose knit suits for women are popular as are her traditional Korean-style dresses. Other Korean looks varied from wedding cake–style dresses to smart casual cotton outfits. —Deborah Belgum
