California Apparel News

NEW YORK—For its July 21–23 run at Manhattan’s Show Piers, ENK International’s Blue trade show once again partnered with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week producer IMG to include a slate of menswear runway shows to coincide with the premium-denim and contemporary menswear trade show.

ENK shifted the dates for Blue to run concurrently with the city’s other menswear trade shows, ENK’s The Collective, Project Global Trade Show and Capsule.

“The runway shows sponsored by YKK and produced in conjunction with IMG proved to be a major draw with editors and retailers alike,” said ENK Public Relations Director Coleman McCartan. “Last season, we had four collections present on the runway, and this season, six, and we expect the number to continue to grow going forward. This is very exciting; a true Men’s Fashion Week is on the horizon for New York!”

The runway shows featured the Spring/Summer 2009 collections for Obakki, Buckler, Charles G Bailey, Nicholas K, Conference of Birds and Orthodox.

“I really loved the runway shows because they gave me the opportunity to see what a full collection truly looks like,” said Anthony Carter, a buyer for Gold Teeth Fashion in Brooklyn. “The Charles G Bailey show impressed me with understated elegant looks that were chic but still accessible.”

The fashion displays and gallery-style show created a lifestyle feel that was especially easy for buyers to navigate, said Carter, who was on the hunt for new lines and accessories for his store.

“My customers want to create an original look, so I am seeking out unique clothing and accessories that make a statement,” he said.

Carter said Gold Teeth Fashion is still feeling the impact of a weak economy but added that business is beginning to pick up. “In the future, we are even thinking of doing something under our own label,” he said.

The Converse by John Varvatos booth was steadily busy, with buyers looking at men’s and women’s collections for Spring/Summer 2009. Retailers were interested in midweight knits, graphic T-shirts, outerwear, knits, denim and woven bottoms, according to Matthew Kneller, a spokesperson for Converse.

New York–based What Comes Around Goes Around featured vintage menswear with a modern twist.

Los Angeles–based Karmel & Alden, founded in 2006, displayed Japanese denim that is produced in Los Angeles. The line of high-quality denim garnered interest from buyers looking for luxury fabrications paired with modern fits, according to a company representative. California-based George by Steven Carrieri showed artistic belts, accessories and T-shirts.

On the runway

Bicoastal public-relations company and event planner People’s Revolution produced all of the shows at Blue, except for Obakki, which was produced by Company Agenda.

On the conceptual side, designer Andrew Bucker drew inspiration from love, sex, death, surrealism and knighthood for his Spring/Summer 2009 Buckler collection.

But the New York–based designer also presented new silhouettes and fabrications, according to Marina Lelchuk, vice president of sales and marketing.

“Andrew Buckler is always looking for new fabrics, and right now we are showing pieces that are 100 percent bamboo,” she said. “We have been writing a lot of orders, and buyers are responding to the European trend of the dropped crotch.”

Eschewing overly structured pieces, the designer showed relaxed, draped pieces, as well as clothing embellished with “little extras” such as suiting-bag vests, cowl-neck T-shirts, shoulder-slung shirts, double-play shirts and garment-dyed denim. According to Lelchuk, the company is considering a move to Capsule, but she said they will continue to participate in Men’s Fashion Week.

Designer Andrew Holden’s Conference of Birds runway show juxtaposed highly structured elements with the ease of hooded vests and trench coats. There was an airy quality to the clothing, which was made from favored featherweight wools and brushed cottons. Highlights included camouflage colors, dip-dyed garments, skinny cuts and flowy pants. The designer layered thermals under shorts and accessorized the looks with untied bowties and military inspired boots.

Obakki is a lifestyle brand whose name means “a state of transformation” in Japanese. Creative director and founder Treana Peake showed a polished collection designed for men with an avant-garde sense of style.

Stepping away from the bright tones utilized in other runway collections, designer Eric Niccoli of Los Angeles–based Orthodox closed out Men’s Fashion Week with muted colors, sleek layers and plaid prints. The show, drenched in masculine themes, gave indie looks a cosmopolitan update. Henleys, slim-cut jeans, skinny ties, cardigans, and shoulder bags and contemporary silhouettes gave the collection a modern and intellectual look.

Retailer perks, next stop Vegas

Although ENK did not release attendance figures, a show spokesperson said, “Any fluctuations in attendance did not affect exhibitors’ sales. Many had their best show ever, especially the first two days.”

ENK launched a new VIP retailer program this season. “Our VIP service has amenities including full-service concierge, express check-in at the shows, travel planning, hotel and restaurant reservations, and includes access to the Fashion Delivers VIP Lounge and the runway shows,” said ENK’s McCartan.

YKK also hosted the YKK Bar and Lounge before and after the runway shows.

Las Vegas is next on the agenda for ENK International, which plans to launch a new show, ENK Vegas, at The Venetian Aug. 25–27 near the Project and MRket shows. Confirmed exhibitors include James Perse, Buckler, What Comes Around Goes Around and Serfontaine.