Margiela's Surprise Store
Most retailers fight for space at the top retail streets—except Martin Margiela.
Conventional wisdom might place the Paris-based high-fashion label’s Maison Martin Margiela boutique on one of Los Angeles’ most prominent retail thoroughfares, such as Rodeo Drive or Melrose Place. Yet when the label opened its first freestanding Maison Martin Margiela boutique in California on Sept. 5, it chose real estate removed from where bustling crowds gather to shop for luxury.
Rather than choosing Rodeo or Melrose, it staked out a 2,800-square-foot space at 9970 S. Santa Monica Blvd. in Beverly Hills that fit the enigmatic but stylish personality of the label, according to a Margiela spokesperson. “It’s not too much in the center, but it’s not too far away,” said Stefano Caputo of the quiet area, located near Los Angeles’ Century City neighborhood.
Yet the boutique might be located in the perfect spot. It stands a couple of blocks away from the exclusive Peninsula Beverly Hills hotel, where nightly room rates range from $495 to $3,500. Such well-heeled guests could well afford Margiela’s exclusive items, such as the label’s “Jewel” top, a woman’s shirt made out of rings, priced at $11,245. Or perhaps, they would purchase the shop’s men’s blazer, which costs $1,495.
Despite the quiet locale, the store debut attracted a celebrity fashion crowd, including Academy Award–nominated costume designer Arianne Phillips; Bebe founder Manny Mashouf; denim designer Adriano Goldschmied; architect Thom Mayne; Mike Mills, bassist for rock band R.E.M.; comedian Tracy Ullman; and legendary nightclub denizen James St. James, whose garb of a caftan and a turban seemed to fit right in with Margiela’s imaginative styles.
Visitors to the Margiela store first walk into the boutique’s accessories and footwear section. The room is anchored by a pyramid-shaped sculpture constructed out of 6,500 champagne flutes. The pyramid carves out space for Margiela’s idiosyncratic shoes, such as the split-toe tabi.
The boutique also devoted space to humorous details. Below the champagne- flute structure there are dirt-like tabi prints on the pristine, white carpet.
The idiosyncratic details continue at the boutique room devoted to fashion. It sells “artisanal” items, handcrafted pieces such as the “Jewel” top and the “Pin-Up” waistcoat, a man’s vest with a cartoonish image of a 1940s-style pin-up model, which costs $5,495. Also available are Margiela blazers, dresses and sweaters.
Toward the back of the boutique is the new home for Mameg, a luxury fashion boutique that had formerly sold Martin Margiela in Los Angeles’ Brentwood neighborhood since 2000. In its new location, Mameg will offer labels such as Jil Sander and Hussein Chalayan, said owner Sonia Eram.
“The store is like Martin Margiela’s roommate. After all of the excitement of Margiela, people will come here to relax,” Eram said.
The Beverly Hills Maison Martin Margiela is the label’s 13th freestanding store. The company will open a boutique in Milan, Italy, on Sept 15. Caputo said that the company might build a second boutique in New York. —Andrew Asch
