California Apparel News

Los Angeles Fashion Week kicked off with a series of independent runway shows under the BoxEight banner, Gen Art’s Fresh Faces in Fashion and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios. California Apparel News will be covering the events over several issues.

Gen Art’s “Fresh Faces in Fashion” show, staged Oct. 13 at the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles, put the spotlight on eight emerging designers. The Spring ’08 collections varied from the Goth-tinged menswear of Endovanera to the more-defined lines of Austrian-born Christian Weber.

Now in its 10th year, Gen Art has established itself as a proven springboard to fashion worthiness. Emcee and Gen Art alum Jeffrey Sebelia is a testament to that. He introduced eight emerging designers, led by Los Angeleno Dorothy Lee. Lee’s upbringing as an architect’s daughter showed as she played with various shapes and forms. She cut slits in shorts and provided details such as scalloped edges on jumpers as well as other unique constructions, such as those found on a tiered-hem blouse.

Melissa Coker of Wren, a former Forever 21 and Old Navy designer, showed very little influence from those mall-based retailers. Instead, she let loose with a blend of modern youthfulness and sophistication, showing metallic brocade skirts and shorts as well as colorful silk frocks.

David Michael Hershberger and Mitch Moseley of the 2-year-old mostly menswear line Endovanera presented an inventive collection answering the need for young contemporary menswear with an edge. The designers showed mostly black and dark-hued tailored items, matching cropped blazers and tux jackets with pants with a skinny silhouette. Hershberger likes to wrap and tuck, creating unique constructions.

Shannon Nataf and Dimitri Tcharfas, the design team behind Suh-Tahn, displayed a series of draped and complex pieces drawn from architectural shapes found in nature. Among the items were silk mesh–strapped tops coupled with “paper bag” slacks and silk-and-leather suspender-strap gowns detailed with silver studs.

Los Angeles designer Julie Kwon of Rhys Dwfen took a seasonal departure from her love of sweaters and added lighter, willowy silk dresses in bold colors, such as the goldenrod dress she showed. She featured short and long silhouettes, embellishing pieces with thick retro belts.

Orthodox’s Eric Niccoli showed a ranging menswear collection featuring everything from crystal-studded parkas to a more domestic cardigan and shorts look, while the Los Angeles–based design team behind Marlova featured long and draped sweaters, tunics and tops in viscose and cashmere. Finally, Weber, of CW Christian Weber, capped the show with one of the most sophisticated collections of the event, showing looks including a clean white trench coat with perforated leather trim, several open-back dresses, a cropped bolero and dresses that emphasized a high waistline.Accessories lines Anita Hopkins, Cerre, Manning and Shane by Brooks Salzwedel were also featured during the two-part presentation. —Robert McAllister