Koi Suwannagate: From Art to Commerce
When Koi Suwannagate landed a coveted spot among the finalists for the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award earlier this year, the honor marked recognition for a collection of artful, hand-sculpted pieces that the designer had been quietly perfecting for the past seven years.
Her eponymous line can be found in more than 40 high-end boutiques worldwide, including Barneys New York, Ron Herman, Fred Segal, FortyFiveTen and Blake.
The Thai designer first moved to California from Bangkok nine years ago. She earned a B.A. in decorative arts and an A.A. in merchandising before later taking couture embellishment and draping classes that accidentally routed her into design. After completing a school project, requests for her hand-sculpted clothing began, and soon more followed. “Many people wanted to buy, and they said, ’You should start your own line,’” Suwannagate explained. “So I tried it, and it worked out really well.” The designer then embarked on a career in fashion design. Today, the designer employs hand-sculpting techniques to create one-of-a-kind tops and dresses made from her signature recycled cashmere. She shapes and sculpts the fabric to enhance the female form. Every collection she designs finds inspiration in nature—from insects, butterflies and flowers—a natural extension of her Thai heritage, the designer said.
For Spring/Summer, Suwannagate was inspired by the Polynesian islands, with their lush flora, colorful flowers and ancient tribal tattoos. She expanded her fabric repertoire to include silk chiffon, linen and organic cotton and added tailored silhouettes such as high-waist, fitted linen skirts and slim pants to complete the ready-to-wear collection. Silk chiffon blouses and dresses have cutaway layers and three-dimensional floral shapes. Intentionally unfinished seams add a raw feeling to the soft look.
Suwannagate brings an organic approach to the design process. “If you give me a piece of fabric, I can make anything out of it,” she explained. “I’m inspired by that moment.” Draping techniques come naturally for the designer, who doesn’t sketch, make patterns or follow the rules. “The way I do things, it’s natural, it’s naiuml;ve, it’s spontaneous at that moment,” she explained. “I just grab whatever I think makes sense, and I make it,” she said.
The designer works with three seamstresses in her studio near downtown Los Angeles. Together they help her create and produce the hand-sculpted collection. Even on a 45-piece order, some of the styles are made and finished by Suwannagate herself to achieve the final look.
A beautiful chiffon blouse is draped by hand to create the delicate, airy feeling of a double-layered puff sleeve, which is then handstitched together. The designer utilizes details such as flowers that are hand-sculpted and placed on the garment. Embroidery is delicately stitched and paint is applied for additional surface interest. Other details include braiding, ruffles or pleating.
The production process is time-intensive. It can take anywhere from half a day to three days to make one item.
As a result, quantities are limited. On average, 30 to 40 pieces are made of each style, although the designer made 70 pieces of one popular style in the current collection. Retail prices range from $450 to $2,800.
Looking ahead
The CFDA nomination has inspired Suwannagate to think more about how to expand her business to the next level. She is hoping to offer a secondary line in a couple years and already has an organic-cotton line in the works, which will include styles such as a T-shirt with hand-sculpted flowers. Later, plans may include branching out with accessories; a home line; a retail store; and, ultimately, wedding gowns.
For more information about Suwannagate’s line, visit www.koisuwannagate.com.
