Shop & Dine: The ultimate guide to off-hours at market

LOS ANGELES

Providence5955 Melrose Ave.(323) 460-4170

Providence’s earth-toned establishment occupies the former Patina space on Melrose. This seafoodfocused restaurant is fresh and modern with a knowledgeable, professional staff. It’s a grown-up place and has been called L.A.’s answer to New York’s Le Bernardin.

Chef Michael Cimarusti is an honors graduate (who knew there was such a thing at cooking schools?) of the Culinary Institute of America and former chef at The Water Grill, a downtown institution.

Cimarusti says, “We try to provide the best dining experience we possibly can for people. We get the finest wild fish available and present it in the cleanest, most modern way—’modern’ meaning simple and stripped down, prepared in a variety of ways and light, not lots of butter but olive oils, and vegetable stock–based.”

Culinary influences are French and Japanese. The dinner menu offers Japanese Tai Snapper, King Salmon from the Kenai River in Alaska, Sea Bass from Long Island, and New York Steak from Nebraska. Lunch includes Maine lobster at a reasonable $23. The food is beautifully presented, and the bartender has a “passion” for serving the perfect drink.

Brentwood Country Mart25th St. at San Vicente Blvd., Santa Monica

Many cultural icons have been ground to dust in Los Angeles and none more so than old shopping venues, so it’s a pleasure to still have the Brentwood Country Mart.

It’s a charming throwback to 1948 in all its red-board barn style. Unlike the 1934-era Farmer’s Market on Fairfax, it is not anchored to an enormous mall. It stands alone, enticing the ghosts of Joan Crawford, Gregory Peck, and Burt Lancaster to come by for one more malted milk shake.

The Country Mart is as popular as ever and gets tonier by the year. The 27 shops include James Perse for sophisticated casualwear; Marie Mason Apothecary for custom perfumes, bath, and body products; and Sugar Paper for stationery and invites. The shops are located off narrow, quaint corridors that emanate from a central patio and fire pit.

Burgers and BBQ chicken from Barney’s Burger and Reddi Chick are consumed around the fire (Liz Taylor was a loyal chowhound here). City Bakery, a New York import, sells salads, pretzel croissants, roasted veggies, and amazing chocolate chip cookies in a cafeteria setting. The Mart also includes an old-fashioned barbershop, post office, and shoe repair.

SAN FRANCISCO

Quince1701 Octavia St.(415) 775-8500

Quince is located in Pacific Heights inside an old apothecary. The room is bright, romantic, and small—only 15 tables. Under the Venetian glass chandeliers, chef/ owner Michael Eric Tusk operates what this year Town & Country Travel called San Francisco’s best restaurant.

Tusk is fanatical about sourcing his product, working with a network of Northern California purveyors that include small farmers, producers of organic meat and produce, and local cheese makers. The menu changes daily and with the seasons, but Italian and French influences prevail. Tusk trained at the Culinary Institute of America and cooked in Provence, France, and at Chez Panisse in Berkeley.

At this intimate, fine dining spot you can sample an appetizer like Spaghetti al Torchio with Monterey Bay sardines, wild fennel, and young balsamico. The dinner menu includes Wolfe Ranch Quail, local Petrale Sole roasted on fig leaf, and Suckling Pig. A tasting menu is available at $90.

San Francisco Art Exchange458 Geary St.(415) 441-8840

The bland moniker San Francisco Art Exchange gives no clue as to the very cool art, photography, limited-edition prints, and paintings held within. This gallery is home to a huge collection of iconic and pop-culture images.

Owner Theron Kabrich explains, “We have the very best, most well-known iconography from a given era. Film, music, intimate portraits—we focus on pop culture and a gallery of popular images with a broad range.”

The 3,000-square-foot gallery located in Union Square is home to the work of photographers such as Jim Marshall, known as the “grandfather” of rock photography and an early Rolling Stone contributor. Ian McMillan is also represented; he shot the “Abbey Road” cover. The gallery represents painter Ron Wood, aka guitarist for the Rolling Stones.

Famous illustrators such as Alberto Vargas, Norman Rockwell, and Roger Dean—who designed album covers for Yes, Asia, and Uriah Heep—are also repped. Aside from its retail aspect, SFAE stages photo and art exhibits. Recently the gallery highlighted the politics and music of 1967–69. Upcoming shows are scheduled for “Glam in Rock” and Pink Floyd.

NEW YORK

The Spotted Pig314 W. 11th St. at Greenwich St.(212) 620-0393

Combine a raucous, scruffy pub with one of Food & Wine’s Top 10 Chefs and what do you get? The Spotted Pig in the West Village.

This two-story “gastro-pub” is a huge hit and draws in the hordes without compromising its culinary quality and reach. Chef April Bloomfield serves up a British and Italian blend of cuisines with a smoky, cured, and salty emphasis. Veggie dishes also are on the menu, and local ingredients are used when available.

The restaurant has upstairs and downstairs bars. This makes waiting for a table during the busy scene at dinner a little easier to take. Soothe the wait with a “Salty Dog”—house-infused pineapple vodka, grapefruit, and a sea salt rim—or the “Old Havana Cocktail”—rum, lime, mint, and sugar. The Pig also specializes in Cask beer, traditional British unfiltered and hand-pumped suds.

Bar snacks are inexpensive and include pickles, chicken liver toast, and marinated olives. Entrees include Pot Roast Rabbit, Grilled Skirt Steak, and the restaurant’s signature dish, Gnudi—a soft dumpling of sheep’s milk ricotta topped with fried sage leaves, brown butter, and parmesan.

The restaurant is open seven days a week until 2 in the morning. You can indulge your cravings without the crowds then, or drop by at the more-manageable lunch hour.

Henri Bendel712 Fifth Ave. at 56th St.(212) 247-1100

In 1895, Henri Bendel attracted the likes of the Vanderbilts and Astors. Today, both the young elite and fashion-forward of all ages flock through the golden doors bordered by Lalique glass. Bendel has always been ahead of the curve in merchandising. It was the first store in New York to stage a fashion show, the first to brand itself with brown shopping bags (now 100 years old), and it introduced Coco Chanel’s designs to America. Bendel tradition also includes showcasing up-and-coming designers. Stephen Burrows and Anna Sui have been “showcase” discoveries and credit Bendel with their success. Trunk and makeup artist shows are regular events.

Within four stories are private label, limited-edition cashmere; denim; Michael Kors; James Perse; AKA NY; and other apparel. The ground floor is packed with pocketbooks, hair accessories, jewelry, sunglasses, cosmetics, and scents, highlighted by a huge selection of Chanel sunglasses and a makeup boutique. Despite what might seem platinum price points, there is something for everyone at varied costs. The Chocolate Bar Cafe reputedly has some of the best desserts in the city. And the fourth floor sports a Frederick Fekkai Salon.

LAS VEGAS

Michael Mina at The Bellagio3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd.(702) 693-7223

The lush, fantastical botanical garden in The Bellagio leads you to the elegant, intimate dining room of Michael Mina. Soft lighting and decorative wood walls make it a seductive room in which to enjoy the specialty tasting menus. Seafood is prepared with California and Mediterranean influences. The restaurant is pricey, but the dress code is not as formal as other Bellagio spots.

“Ocean Beach” choices on the tasting menu include Butter Poached Maine Lobster and Miso-Glazed Chilean Sea Bass. The “Cookbook” menu (which is accompanied by a free autographed copy of the Mina book) serves up a trio of American Kobe Rib-eye. “Russian Hill,” a nod to the chef’s San Francisco roots, brings Osetra Caviar Parfait to the table.

A la carte choices are also available. The Maine Lobster Pot Pie is a fave. The waiter brings the food out on a cart, cuts off the piecrust, deconstructs the substantial lobster on top, and plates it with vegetables and a black truffle sauce. You’re not sittin’ on the dock of the bay with this dish.

Exotic Cars at Caesars PalaceForum Shops3500 S. Las Vegas Blvd.(702) 735-7700

It’s hard to believe that once upon a time in Las Vegas there was no showroom for the purchase of a Lamborghini or two, but such was the case. “Three years ago, there were no exotic car dealers in Vegas,” says general sales manager Michael Nelson. “But this is the number-one growth city, and it seemed like a good idea. We have the finest crafted vehicles.” Ferrari is the foremost brand at this twostory, 34,000-square-foot autodream emporium, along with such vintage muscle cars as Mustangs and Camaros.

Walking into Exotic Cars at the Forum Shops (entry is accessible from Caesars’ casino) is like entering a museum. The cars are displayed gloriously before you, and there’s no shame in snapping trophy shots. The showroom has racecar simulators, the same machines that pro teams use, for testing your driving skills. Bentleys, Vipers, Porsches, and Shelby Cobras are for sale, as well as racecars, muscle cars, collector cars, and motorcycles.

Good luck at the craps table! If you need to scale down the dream, an adjacent retail boutique fulfills your T-shirt, hat, keychain, and model car desires.

ATLANTA

The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton3434 Peachtree Rd. NE, Buckhead(404) 240-7035

Thirty minutes north of downtown Atlanta, the Ritz-Carlton at Buckhead combines Southern hospitality and sophistication. The hotel personifies the Buckhead community’s reputation as the “Beverly Hills of the South.” The Dining Room solidifies it further as chef Arnaud Berthelier (a 2007 James Beard nominee for Best Southeast Chef) turns out beautiful dishes with a French/Mediterranean focus.

The restaurant showcases seasonal menus, tasting menus, and boasts a chef’s table for 10. What they might eat: Seared diver scallops, braised Jamison Farm lamb, partridge, and an amuse bouche of poached quail egg with chicken jus, pea shoots, shaved truffles, and hold the grits please. The bread is terrific and the service gracious. The wine cellar holds 600-plus selections.

Before you enter the cozy Dining Room (jackets required) and are wowed by the apple-green silk walls, tufted booths, and portraits of Englishmen at the hunt, make time for a drink by the marble fireplace in the elegant Lobby Lounge.

Buckhead Shopping Districtwww.buckhead.net

Directly across the street from the Ritz, you begin your ascent toward the shopping joys of Buckhead. It should be noted that the name “Buckhead” stems from an old tavern in the area that had a prize buck’s head hanging over the bar. That tavern is long gone and has been replaced by Lenox Square and Phipps Plaza, the deluxe shopping centers of the Southeast. The hundreds of shops include Saks, Versace, Jimmy Choo, and the Karen Millen boutique.

In addition to the malls, Peachtree Road (originally the Indian route Peachtree Trail) winds its way here from downtown Atlanta. Along this route you’ll find art galleries featuring Southern, folk, and contemporary art; City Issue, a vintage furniture shop; and the old-fashioned Richards Variety Store, a genuine five and dime.

West Village Buckhead is in the heart of the neighborhood with garden shops; jewelry; and Crash and Burn, a shop with an eclectic collection of footwear, T-shirts, and ska, punk, and rockabilly music.

South Buckhead, or SOBU, is a newly emerging scene of galleries and restaurants. Explore the Web site to get detailed descriptions, directions, and addresses of the shopping districts and stores in the area.

DALLAS

Nana2201 Stemmons Fwy. at the Hilton Anatole(214) 761-7470

High above Dallas on the 27th floor of the Hilton Anatole is Nana, a glamorous dining room and bar. Panoramic views of Dallas and “statement” food await. Chef Anthony Bombaci helped Nana earn entry into Gourmet’s Top 50 American restaurants list in 2006, and it is considered one of Dallas’ very best. The dining room is understated and elegant in dark woods, and Asian art enhances the ambience. Five private dining rooms are available. There is live jazz at the bar, and a generously sized dance floor is filled with folks who have imbibed either the “Ultimate Margarita” at $75 or “Nana’s Perfect Rita” at $13.50.

The menu includes the Blis Smoked Trout Caviar appetizer and Liquid Baked Potato soup. Entrees include Mesquite Grilled Filet of Prime Beef, Venison Loin, Cowboy Rib-eye, and a selection of fish. Tasting and bar menus are also offered.

Seating tip: Request a table at the windows that face the city, otherwise you might end up staring at the vast lonesome prairie to the West—though that could be an appropriate backdrop for the fine Texas steak on your plate.

Whole Earth Provision Company5400 East Mockingbird Lane(214) 824-7444

Texans who wish to outfit themselves for excursions to Big Bend, Vail, or the Ouachita Mountains in Arkansas first stop at Whole Earth Provision. This specialty store stocks top-notch, innovative equipment and clothing. Its mission is to excite customers and fire them up with enthusiasm for the “experience, preservation, and enjoyment of our land.”

Of course, there’s never any harm in looking good while you are tramping about, so the wares include chic outdoorsy lines like Patagonia, North Face, Prana, Royal Robbins, and Isda. At 10,000 square feet, the store also does big business in toys, gifts, and books.

Customers cover the age spectrum, and seminars on fitness and gear are offered. The greenpowered store is located near Southern Methodist University, just north of downtown.

CHICAGO

Everest440 S. LaSalle St., 40th Fl.(312) 663-8920

Everest at the Chicago Stock Exchange soars 40 stories high with spectacular vistas of Chicago, so the name fits. Branded as Chicago’s most romantic restaurant as well as best for business dining, this Relais & Chateaux/Relais Gourmand restaurant can seemingly do no wrong.

Chef Jean Joho explains how he operates: “Since Everest opened more than 20 years ago, the restaurant has continually received worldwide praise, accolades, and the highest possible ratings. We attribute this to our philosophy, which is: ’What is good today is not good enough tomorrow.’ We strive for excellence every day.”

This is reflected in the beautiful dining room. Each table is set with a small bronze sculpture by Swiss artist Ivo Soldini, and abstract canvases by Adam Seigel, a Chicago painter, adorn the walls.

The food reflects the influence of the Alsace region of France, home to Joho. The menu includes Line-Caught Swordfish with braised lentils and red wine shallot confit, Marbre of Wild Game with truffle vinaigrette, Roasted Partridge, and Classic Dry-Aged New York Strip Steak. Vegetarian selections are available, and the desserts include a “Fantasy of Chocolate.”

Penelope’s1913 W. Division St. in Wicker Park(773) 395-2351

Penelope, the namesake pug, and her companion, Olive, man the checkerboard tile floor of this popular boutique for men’s and women’s apparel. Wicker Park is one of those explosively gentrifying neighborhoods in Chicago where hip restaurants and shops have moved into working-class enclaves. Penelope’s was a pioneer in the area five years ago and has seen major growth on the block this year.

Mid-century furnishings, bright blue walls, and Eames clothing hooks show off the clean lines and classic shapes of A.P.C., Built by Wendy, Crate Denim, WESC Denim, and Spring and Clifton crewneck sweaters. Local jewelry makers craft one-of-a-kind pieces that are charmingly displayed in a handmade dollhouse. Prices are reasonable, so word of mouth brings customers to Penelope’s from all over.

MIAMI

Azul at the Mandarin Oriental500 Brickell Key Dr.(305) 913-8254

Azul means “blue,” and there are the brightest of blue views at this stylish restaurant. Floor-toceiling windows reflect a milliondollar vista of Biscayne Bay.

The atmosphere at Azul is lower key and at a lower decibel level than you might find at nearby South Beach eateries. Azul possesses one of the largest wine lists in Miami and has a seafood bar of oysters, lobster, stone crab claw, and ceviche. The fusion cuisine is Mediterranean/Asian. If you can tear your eyes from the water and sky to peruse the menu, you’ll find Moroccan Lamb, grilled Rainbow Trout, and a Rainbow of Oysters— crispy oysters wrapped in Tuna Hamachi and Salmon Carpaccio.

Service is attentive and unpretentious. Before or after lunch or dinner, a stroll around the Mandarin Oriental’s grounds is recommended.

CocoWalk3015 Grand Ave., Coconut Grovewww.galleryatcocowalk.com

Coconut Grove was annexed to Miami in the 20s and has been a stomping ground for Tennessee Williams, Robert Frost, and a singer named Jimmy Buffett. In that vein, CocoWalk at the Grove is a vibrant, open-air shopping, entertainment, and dining center just south of downtown Miami by Biscayne Bay. Party-time Buffett (yes, as in Jimmy) dining is available at the Apples Martini Bar Lounge, Cafe Tu Tu Tango, and many other establishments. A multi-screen AMC Theater is also located here. Amidst Gaps and Victoria’s Secrets you can find local, non-chain shops. Some finds include Maui Nix for skateboard, surf, and diving options, and Koko and Palenki Shoes for designer styles from Dolce & Gabbana, Richard Tyler, and Donald Pliner.

CoCo Cigar allows smoking on the premises and tempts tobacco lovers with stogies from Cohiba, Dunhill, Padron, Arturo Fuente, and many other makes. Lighters and humidifiers are sold as well.

This upscale neighborhood is also home to the luxury hotels Ritz-Carlton Coconut Grove and the Mayfair Hotel and Spa.