California Dreamin'
That the Los Angeles Fashion Market has grown tremendously in recent years is indisputable—and it’s a good bet it will continue to rise in 2008. From fashion shows all over the city to the third annual Los Angeles Fashion Awards, trade shows such as Designers and Agents, Brighte Companies, Boutique Lingerie, and the Designer Suites at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios, the L.A. Market offers an increasing number of options for buyers.
“The L.A. Market has been on the fast track for quite some time, and we are seeing no signs of it slowing down,” says Joanne Lee, Vice President of California Market Center Services. “The fact that Los Angeles is such a style-conscious town, coupled with the serious design talent that lives here, ensures that we will continue to grow in the coming seasons. California has the largest [apparel] manufacturing base in the United States,” she continues. “Additionally, L.A. is the capital of the entertainment industry, and celebrities are the ones setting trends right now.”
Lee said October market at the California Market Center was “an overwhelming success. We attribute that success to the runway shows and the vast number of new resources that premiered in October. Overall, we had a 5 percent increase in buyer attendance.”
Across the street, The New Mart is also enjoying continued success with its 100 showrooms and as host to the Designers and Agents show. New Mart Manager Ethan Eller says the building has been fully leased for nine years and of the 100 showrooms 20 of them are on a wait list for more space. Additionally, 300–500 companies are on a list for showroom space in the building. The New Mart boasts high traffic during market weeks, says Eller, and “the majority of the tenants love having D&A here because it increases traffic.”
The Cooper Design Space also attracts a healthy complement of contemporary retail buyers. In addition to being another venue for Designers and Agents, Cooper has tentative plans to host a Make-Up show in September of 2008, as well as a Career Fair in March and a Bridal show in September. Cooper representative Mona Sangkala says being a hosting venue for these shows increases traffic in the building and exposure to different market segments.
Benefiting from its proximity to the other market centers is the Gerry Building, which joined the L.A. Market in 2002 after the historic Art Deco building was renovated and turned into showroom space. It currently houses several permanent and intimate apparel showrooms.
ON THE RUNWAYS
In addition to providing a wide variety of market activities, many in L.A.’s fashion industry are committed to supporting emerging designers who otherwise could not afford to pay for trade show booths or fashion shows.
Gen Art has long been a source for upand- coming talent and a launching pad for designers. “It is a great way for them to get out of the gate without having to make the trade show commitment leap,” says Vice President of Business Development of Gen Art L.A. Jennifer Egan. “A Gen Art show is fully paid for by Gen Art, so the designer does not need to risk the label financially in order to get in front of consumers and the fashion industry. Trade shows can often be costprohibitive, and ineffective if the buzz and interest hasn’t yet been created. The Fresh Faces in Fashion events are a great way to get the lines in front of the industry. And the designers can follow up by doing the trade show circuit.”
The recent Fresh Faces in Fashion L.A., featuring designers Wren, CW Christian Weber, and Marlova, among others, attracted 1,400 attendees, and, according to Egan, most of the lines shown saw a big response from buyers as well as from stylists. Comprised of top stylists, editors, designers, and buyers, Gen Art’s selection committee selects a chosen few designers to exhibit each season. “Fresh Faces is the largest showcase of emerging talent in North America because we have such an intense curation process,” says Egan. “We just celebrated our 10-year anniversary in Los Angeles, which is significant because it shows that we have been building the fabric of the community.”
Now in its seventh season, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios also continues to showcase emerging as well as established designers. In October, press, buyers, and stylists witnessed the latest creations from a variety of West Coast designers, including Randolph Duke, Heatherette, Grey Ant, Tart, Evidence of Evolution, and Petro Zillia. “I think that shows in general allow designers to present their collections and visions in a much broader spectrum,” says Davis Factor of Smashbox Studios. “It allows buyers to see the clothing in a different light—how the fabric drapes, the way it moves. Shows also give exposure and momentum to the collections so when Market Week arrives, they have a bit of a head start.”
This year also saw the emergence of BOXEight, an arts organization dedicated to the rejuvenation of downtown Los Angeles. It held several fashion shows at the former St. Vibiana Cathedral featuring names like Jeffrey Sebelia, Gary Harvey, and Louis Verdad. Members of the Neighborhood Council, including BOXEight President and founder Peter Gurnz, Brady Westwater, and Gary Warfel planned the fashion event. Gurnz also credits BOXeight Executive Director Hillary Coe, who has extensive experience in the fashion industry, with the event’s success.
“These events are all designed to be gatherings for our community and celebrations of the arts, music, and fashion. Offering designers a free venue to exhibit is quite the challenge, but we have been successful,” he continues. “We need to stand behind these designers and artists of all types. Big organizations have huge sponsorships enabling them; when a change is needed, one has to look at what else is out there. We hope to be that change, and be a platform to encourage others to do the same.”
WORKING IN CONCERT
It’s been nearly a decade since Designers and Agents launched its Los Angeles show, in a 1,500-square-foot room on the 5th floor of The New Mart with about 200 buyers in attendance. The recent L.A. D&A show brought in over 2,250 buyers, shopping the collections of nearly 300 exhibitors.
D&A co-founders Barbara Kramer and Ed Mandelbaum report that the mood of the recent show was upbeat, and buyers were finding what they were looking for. Mandelbaum says he is a strong proponent of having a big L.A. Fashion Market that encompasses a variety of activities and events and believes the L.A. Market is heading in a forward direction. “L.A. should have the most fantastic swimwear, junior, streetwear shows, etc., but they have to be the right ones,” he says. “We pride ourselves in the selection of products/exhibitors. The more good product that can be in Market Week, the better. We’ve never looked at another trade show as competition. It builds the city, and we look forward to supporting other trade shows in Los Angeles.”
Though D&A began as a source for buyers in the Western states, it now serves the entire United States, as well as international buyers from Japan, Russia, Germany, and other countries. With shows in New York and London as well, D&A L.A. remains focused on providing a laid-back vibe with more of a crossover market. “Buyers like to come to L.A. because of the lifestyle,” says Kramer. “They like to come out here and tack on a couple of extra days to hang out in Malibu. And the European designers and buyers enjoy driving up the coast to San Francisco.”
SMALL BUT POWERFUL
Along with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios, The Design Suites have been held as an opportunity for designers who don’t produce runway shows to present themselves to the Fashion Week audience. Over 1,000 attendees were at the four-day event in October (70 percent press, 10 percent stylists, and 20 percent buyers) to peruse the offerings of 16 lines, including Alternative Apparel, Andrew Lauren, Biatta Intimates, and Heidi Merrick. Dress designer Merrick says, “As a designer, I don’t do trade shows, so it was a great opportunity to talk face to face with buyers and press, and the feedback was invaluable.” Merrick’s sales rep Vivian Pateo of Tricot Showroom echoed those sentiments: “It was a nice, laid-back social atmosphere with designers, sales reps, press, and some buyers mingling and networking.”
Filling similar needs are Brighte Companies at the CMC and the Boutique Lingerie Show at the Gerry Building. Brighte had its biggest day on opening day, Oct. 26.
Bright Companies show sponsor ENK reported that buyers responded well to the mix of product and categories at the show, placing strong orders. “Show management said that exhibitors were so happy with Friday alone that they could have packed up and gone home happy,” says the CMC’s Joanne Lee.
Boutique Lingerie show founder Samantha Chang says being on the 5th floor of the Gerry Building is an advantage because buyers are more focused. The recent show included 22 brands and 50 attendees. “The cost is much lower for L.A.-based designers to test the market and their product with stores that are not too far away to keep close contact,” says Chang. She expects the March 2008 market to be her most successful to date. “Buyers always enjoy the show,” she says. “It is small, manageable, and has a friendly atmosphere.”
THE INTERSECTION
The Intersection is made up of the California Market Center, The New Mart, the Cooper Design Space, the Gerry Building, Designers and Agents, and the LA Fashion District Business Improvement District. Among this entity and the independent fashion show organizers, there seems to be a consensus that what is good for one is good for all.
“All of the fashion buildings in the Intersection have banded together to support one another and our common goal of making L.A. Fashion Market a can’t-miss destination,” says Lee. “We believe that the more resources we have to offer on the West Coast, the better.
“I believe that we are all working together to achieve a common goal, which is to draw as much global attention to L.A. fashion as possible,” Lee continues. “Therefore, we fully support any event that can make the world look to see what the West Coast is doing.”
