California Apparel News

Technology—with bells and whistles at full tilt—moved to the front of the stage at the tri-annual SPESA Expo, held May 8–10 in conjunction with the annual Material World fabric show and Technology Solutions software show at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

While the virtual world of 3-D was rampant at the show, production management software systems were equally in demand, show organizers said.

“The ever-growing interest in PLM [product lifecycle management] software systems was widely recognized and eagerly sought by the attendee base, and it was seen in the booths as well as in the educational events put on by the AAFA [American Apparel & Footwear Association],” said Tim von Gal, executive vice president for the show’s co-producer, Urban Expositions, based in Marietta, Ga.

Anchored by the first “Cool Zone” exhibit, featuringconceptual and existing technology, the show’s tech focus reflected the continued emphasis on speed and efficiency among apparel companies.

The Cool Zone, hosted by Cary, N.C.–based {TC}2, highlighted everything from 3-D to RFID and lean manufacturing. Among the participants were Malibu, Calif.–based Shapely Shadow, which showed its Fast Fit 3-D software, which allows companies to share 3-D fit sessions via e-mail, showing real 360-degree moving images of actual fit models. The system displays 99 images in 15 seconds. “This saves a lot of FedEx bills,” said Roxy Starr, company principal.

Also on the 3-D front was Los Angeles– based Tukatech’s e-fit simulator, which used 3- D technology to produce animated mannequins outfitted with virtual garments. Company Chief Executive Ram Sareen said some users have eliminated the need to make physical samples because of the accuracy of the e-fit system.

South Korean company U-Fashion showed a virtual dressing room that allows users to import their own likenesses into the system and outfit their 3-D counterparts with virtual clothing and then animate them. The system was attracting retailers such as Chico’s and others at the show. Assyst-Bulmer, a German company, showed Vidya, a 3-D visual tool that integrates into pattern-design systems to offer real-time renderings.

The lifelike images on the flat screens in the Cool Zone impressed lots of buyers, but Yoram Burg, president of Optitex, a CAD company, warned them to “look under the hood” for 3-D solutions during a 3-D seminar at the show. Optitex just inked a deal with Utah-based Daz to provide a cloth simulator within Optitex’s 3-D and pattern-making software.

The section also featured a collaborative demonstration between South Korean company Yuhan-Kimberly and Gerber Technology where show visitors ordered T-shirts from scratch. The design, cutting and sewing is done on-site and completed within a couple of hours. Yuhan prints the designs using nano-colorants, which require no pre- or post-treatments.

“We’ve received tremendous feedback,” said {TC}2 President Michael Fralix. “The crowds have been steady.”

PLM dominates Tech Solutions show

Though less glamorous, product lifecycle management software remains a hot area for apparel executives because it has allowed companies to collaborate with suppliers and trading partners on all aspects of pre-production via the Internet.

Vendors in the Technology Solutions sections of the show rolled out new generations of PLM. Westford, Mass.–based Enovia/MatrixOne said it is integrating Adobe Illustrator into its solution to help users expedite the design process by facilitating collaboration.

San Francisco–based Freeborders highlighted Quad PLM and Quad PLM Express, set for release during the third quarter. The product is aimed at smaller companies and features improved user interfaces, multi-language capabilities and streamlined configuration.

Gerber and Lectra took different tactics with PLM.

“We first want to learn about what they need, what their problems may be,” said David Rode, president of Lectra USA Inc. “We don’t want to bail out the ocean right away.”

Lectra was highlighting its new Fashion PLM, loaded with a 3-D prototyping engine as well as the Kaledo design tool for textile prints, wovens and knits.

Gerber also has a new PLM solution called FLM (Fashion Lifecycle Management) but has configured the system as an add-on for WebPDM users. The company has teamed with EC Vision to provide task-management tools. Matthew Austin of Needham, Mass.–based PTC said the next area for PLM is material and performance testing.

“The industry has to find a way to be profitable. They’ve done it with low-cost manufacturing. This is the next avenue,” he said.

Cutting-edge machines

On the machinery front, Gerber Technology showed its XLc7000 cutter, which was developed in the United States but assembled in China to offer a price point about 30 percent less than a U.S.-made cutter. The machine was originally intended for the Chinese market, but the program was so successful that Gerber decided to roll it out to the general trade.

“The quality is as good as any U.S.-made machine,” Gerber President John Hancock said.

Gerber also showed its AccuScan digitizer, which eliminates the need to digitize patterns manually.

“We’ve accelerated the pace of our product development, so we have a whole booth full of new products,” Hancock said.

Lectra unveiled its Vector cutter designed for high-plied cuts.

The White Plains, N.Y.–based Paxar Corp. showed its next generation of heat-transfer labeling applications with Chroma HD, which is aimed at brand-conscious companies. The system produces high-definition labels in colors, allowing for vivid graphics on “tagless” care and sizing labels.

“If you go into a Wal-Mart or Kohl’s, you will be hard-pressed to find a woven label,” said Frank Flanagan, president of Mahwah, N.J.–based F&M Expressions Unlimited, which also produces heat-transfer systems.

Cris Saunders of Cerritos, Calif.–based Insta Graphics said big hits at the show were the company’s LabelTrans, Instaglo and Litho heat transfers, as well as the introduction of the new digital Single-Station Flat Head Press.

Los Angeles–based printing systems supplier DigiFab showed new pigments that can be applied directly onto non-backed fabrics, producing more vibrant colors, said company principal Alex Izmirlian.

Organics, performance fabrics in demand

Material World exhibitors continued with a growing emphasis on natural and performance fabrics while trying to remain competitive with offshore resources. Childrenswear manufacturer Maureen Quinlan of Maureen Quinlan Inc., St. Petersburg, Fla., was in the Hemp Traders booth scouting for natural fiber and fabrics producers near her factories in Central America. She is looking to augment organics for her line.

Lawrence Serbin, president of Los Angeles–based Hemp Traders, said the interest in natural fabrics is skyrocketing, even for his edgier materials.

“Now, it’s getting really big. We even had Hanes come by our booth. That would not have happened a couple of years ago,” he said.

As usual, the Robert Kaufman Fabrics booth was hopping with buyers interested in antique-influenced fashion fabrics and retro-mod prints, said Ron Kaufman, sales executive for the Los Angeles–based company.

“We’re pleased. It’s been very busy with a good flow of traffic,” he said. “Buyers have been flexible with pricing. In many cases, they are actually pushing for nicer fabrics.”

Gail Strickler, vice president of New York–based Saxon Textile, reported lots of interest in two-way stretch and moisture-wicking materials from fashion companies.

“They are looking to make fashion jackets using moisture-wicking fabrics and materials that are normally used for running shorts for fashion items,” she said.

Factories report progress

The host of factories on hand felt the show was successful because of free-trade pacts such as the Dominican Republic–Central American Free Trade Agreement.

“The show has been very good,” said Angela Castillo of Asociacioacute;n Hondurentilde;a de Maquiladores, a Honduran trade association. “We’ve been seeing the real decision makers from companies. They either want to subcontract or start their own businesses. And now with CAFTA, we are expanding into wovens, not just knits.”

Castillo said exports to the United States areup 5 percent for the first quarter. She noted that Honduras is adding five new textile mills this year to improve its textile infrastructure.

Jose Hernandez of the National Free Zone Council of the Dominican Republic said the implementation of DRCAFTA in March should reflect on production throughout the year.

“At this show, we saw two big companies who have set appointments to come to the DR [Dominican Republic] in the next three weeks,” he said.

Many of the free zones there offer tax incentives and relaxed tariffs and regulations.

“CAFTA has been a wonderful incentive,” added Herb Yussim of Designer Sample Room, which produces sample runs for American companies and others in El Salvador.

“But Central America still needs to rethink its business with potential customers. When these potential customers go to Asia, they come home with partial orders, lab dips. That’s not always the case in Central America. They have to learn how to sell.”

Von Gal said most of the feedback he received from the three areas was positive. The company did not release attendance figures but said no one was disappointed.

“We were thrilled. We received such positive feedback from both exhibitors and attendees. At the last show in 2004, it seemed a lot of buyers were committed to one of the three events, but they came to see everything this time.”