Podoll: Beyond the Tee
From T-shirt line to collection. It’s becoming a familiar pattern as designers who find success in the T-shirt biz are expanding into full clothing lines. Podoll, a San Francisco–based women’s and men’s collection, is doing well in its second season of production. The line is created by the husband-and-wife design team of Josh and Lauren Podoll. Josh, an abstract painter, launched his T-shirt collection, Josh Podoll, three years ago, after being discovered by Lauren, a buyer for AB Fits, the 15-year-old San Francisco–based retailer known for fitting customers in denim. It was a case of serendipity that the two met and later married. Lauren inspired him to launch the T-shirt collection, which was originally made for family and friends. The two lines are now carried in some of the top contemporary stores in the country, including Fred Segal Santa Monica, American Rag, Apartment #9 and Barneys New York in Los Angeles; AB Fits, M.A.C., Azalea and Bloomingdale’s in San Francisco; Atrium and Barneys New York in New York; and online at www.revolveclothing.com.
Their design concept is simple. “Ease is very important to us,” said Lauren. “We don’t want it to be constricting. We don’t want it to be too tricky. We like pieces that transcend age and hopefully trend. And we always think about fit. It needs to make the wearer feel confident and comfortable,” she added.
Inspiration comes from art, architecture and references outside of fashion. For instance, this season the pair was inspired by architectural structures, such as the spiral staircase, and structures in nature that have an architectural quality, such as the waterfall. A long-sleeved top has a spiral collar to mimic the shape of a staircase, and a vertically pleated top and dress are aptly named “Waterfall” after their inspiration.
In addition, their shared interest in art comes into play. Lauren was an art history and psychology major, and Josh will be hosting his first solo show in May at the Feature Inc. gallery in New York. “Art has always been something that we look to and reference,” said Lauren. “It’s something we share and definitely a big part of the line,” she added. As a painter, Josh is influenced by other artists. Last season, they utilized abstract shapes in the construction of garments that were inspired by the abstract art of Russian Suprematists such as Kasimir Malevich.
This season, their design inspiration comes from the dark forest, druids, mysticism and witchcraft. “The full realm of things that happen in dark and mysterious places,” said Lauren. Pieces such as a hooded dress and a window-pane tunic with cutouts around the neck have a monastic quality and a medieval Robin Hood and Maid Marian feel. An apron skirt, “Druid” robe and “Endora” dress are named to reflect the collection’s theme. And a “Tabard” cable cashmere pullover bridges the medieval world and modern day by folding over the shoulders with open sides for a cloak-like feeling.
An androgynous jewelry collection called Ann Marie for Podoll was created to accent the collection.
The men’s collection is a focused group of tailored classic shapes with a modern edge. For instance, a blazer in a cotton/nylon fabric has a water-resistant treatment that creates a subtle sheen. Blazers, vests, woven shirts, pants and cashmere sweaters wholesale from $85 to $420.
The Josh Podoll line of T-shirts wholesales from $27 to $32 and utilizes organic and bamboo fabrics and embroidery treatments.
The collection has designer price points, and the husbandand- wife design duo makes a conscious effort in manufacturing, using sustainable fabrics whenever they can. They also manage their production and choose ethical factories that pay a fair wage and offer English-as-a-second-language classes for their workers.
Wholesale prices range from $80 for Tencel tops to $479 for a cashmere coat. Tops are $120 to $180; cashmere knits are $180 to $200; and dresses are $200 to $250.
For more information on Podoll, contact the Standard Showroom in the Cooper Design Space at (213) 622-6121.
—N. Jayne Seward
