Dorothy Lee: Comfortably Contemporary
Luxurious fabrications, sophisticated silhouettes and a bit of slouchy refinement—that’s the look of the Dorothy Lee collection.
The designer, who apprenticed at Peter Som in design and Chanel in marketing while completing the post-graduate program in fashion design at the Parsons School of Design in New York, launched her Los Angeles–based line earlier this year. Prior to the launch, Lee also held an assistant design position with William B. creator William Beranek at his current company, Nickel, as well as a design position with Leon Max at Max Studio. After garnering her design and production experience, Lee had the urge to develop her own aesthetic of smart, slouchy and sophisticated clothing infused with quality and comfort. Curve and Tracey Ross boutiques in Los Angeles were quick to pick up the line before it officially launched at Fashion Coterie in New York in February. Additional stores to pick up the line include Azalea Boutique and Dylan in San Francisco, Southern California Nordstrom stores, and Wink and Caravan in New York.
“For a brand-new line, it’s gotten a great start out the door,” said showroom owner Laurie Hasson, who also represents other successful Los Angeles–based lines, including Rachel Pally, Meghan and Corey Lynn Calter. Hasson plans to strategize placement by focusing on a select group of better specialty stores.
Lee referred to history books, flea markets and vintage fashion magazines to design her collection. “I wasn’t inspired by one thing, per se, but I’m always very interested in history and things of the past,” said Lee. For this collection she played with volume and utilized luxurious fabrics and comfortable fits. “I want the girl who’s wearing it to not just feel sexy but also comfortable in what she’s wearing,” said Lee.
The collection includes full swing jackets, bubble-hem dresses and chic sweaters. She utilizes uber-comfortable lyocell jersey with silk chiffon details for tops and dresses, rayon jersey for jumpsuits and leggings, and angora/wool and wool/cashmere blends for coats. Knits are made in wool/cashmere blends for coarse-gauge chunky cardigans and dresses and in silk/cashmere blends for fine-gauge lightweight cardigans. Silk chiffon inserts are added into the back of a cardigan, silk godets are placed on in a knit sweater and button details to the back neckline of a slouchy cardigan to create interesting variations on classic pieces.
Colors are muted, a similarity to Lee’s personal style. Shades of plum/black, slate/gray and ecru/nude add a subtle grunginess to washed-silk slouchy dresses. Origami-like floral chiffon appliqueacute;s on the neckline of a blouse and the embroidery on a velvet coat inspired by a piece of art nouveau jewelry from her grandmother’s collection add subtle detail.
Wholesale prices are $89 for a fine-gauge knit cardigan, $92 for lyocell dresses, $229 for a wool/angora swing coat, $128 to $138 for washed-silk dresses, and $89 to $128 for coarse-gauge knit dresses and cardigans.
Lee is approaching her new endeavor with the seriousness of an experienced businesswoman. “This is all new for me, so I’m trying to be really diligent about making sure everything is delivered on time and all the shipping guidelines will be followed,” she said. Lee has a supportive family behind her but ultimately is relying on herself. “I’m trying to learn everything myself, just because when you own your own business you need to know what’s going on with everything. But it’s nice to have all these people around me who are supporting me.”
Lee is one of two new West Coast designers who cut their teeth at high-profile internships before joining the Los Angeles fashion community. Cindy Lee (no relation to Dorothy Lee) also attended the Parsons School of Design and then interned at Yohlee and Marc Jacobs. Cindy Lee returned to her native Los Angeles to launch her quietly sophisticated modern Cindy Lee collection in October 2006. Stores were also quick to recognize the quality and detail of her collection. She opened at Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus, Ron Herman and Fred Segal Flair at Fred Segal Santa Monica in Santa Monica, Calif., in her first season.
For more information on Dorothy Lee, contact the Laurie Hasson Showroom in The New Mart, suite 700, at (213) 229-8700.
—N. Jayne Seward
