California Apparel News

The growing popularity of eco-friendly fashion is spawning a new wave of “eco-marketing,” which has some fashion companies heading into the unfamiliar areas of environmental activism and social responsibility.

While Patagonia, REI and other outdoor companies have tread on this turf for years, more fashion and casual brands are just jumping into this area as a way to create awareness about their products as well as do their part to save the environment. Despite the responsibilities that may come with selling eco-fashion, most companies welcome it.

At the Aug. 27–30 edition of the MAGIC Marketplace in Las Vegas, Austin, Texas–based contemporary line Reneacute; Geneva Design will roll out its first line of ready-to-wear day-to-evening dresses made from sustainable materials. The company has been producing corsets and bridalwear for several years.

With the debut of the line, designer Reneacute; Geneva will also debut the “Fashionably Neutral Carbon Program,” aimed at offsetting carbon-dioxide emissions, which are a key contributor to global warming and the deterioration of the ozone layer.

Geneva’s program assigns carbon values (CV) to each garment. The CV take into consideration the textile’s origin and composition, manufacturing source and destination in order to determine how much of a carbon footprint was made in producing and shipping the garment.

To offset this footprint, Reneacute; Geneva is donating funds based on the carbon values to two earth-friendly charities: Earth Pledge and Native Energy. Earth Pledge helps companies and governments reduce their impact on the environment by deploying new technologies. One of its initiatives is its “Future Fashion” program, which identifies eco fabrics and other materials. Native Energy focuses on educating consumers, businesses and organizations about renewable energy, which relies less upon fossil fuels and carbon emissions.

Eco-responsibility has been practiced by outdoor brands and global companies but by few in the fashion area, said Geneva. “We did lots of research and could only find one or two designers who are truly eco-centric throughout their businesses,” she said. “You can have funky eveningwear and fashion items and still be eco-conscious.”

At the upcoming MAGIC Marketplace, Geneva will show day-to-evening dresses, corsets and bridal gowns made with sustainable fabrics. The garments are made in the United States and offshore sources using hemp from China, silk from India and organic cotton from Latin America.

“We try and manufacture at the source,” said Geneva. “Our hemps are spun in China. We work only with ethical labor groups, and it gets shipped directly to the U.S. Our manufacturers in Nicaragua will be using solar electric plants. We are trying to find more ways to get to a zero or negative impact.”

Others, such as San Francisco–based startup Tobi (www.tobi.com), are also promoting their efforts to fight global warming. Tobi––an e-tailer that specializes in West Coast labels including Rachel Pally, Paige Premium Denim and James Perse––has launched an Eco-Tobi section, which sells clothing from eco-brands such as Edun and Loomstate. As part of the section, Tobi promotes Carbon-Fund.org (www.carbonfund.org), an organization that educates individuals and companies on how to achieve a zero-carbon footprint.

“It’s about creating real change, positive change,” said Tobi co-founder Catherine Chow. “The feedback has been positive. They care about issues like global warming.”

Both Chow and Geneva agreed that consumers are more educated than they were five years ago regarding the environment. So marketing to this segment must be done carefully and in a way that does not portray their efforts as insincere.

“Our customers are very smart and strong independent women,” said Geneva, indicating that they would not stand for any marketing gimmickry.

Selling the consumer on eco-friendly fashion requires more education, be it on labeling, sales and other means. In the Namaste Showroom, located in the Cooper Design Space in Los Angeles, the emphasis on education is strong, but the showroom owners are well-versed. Manager Mahana Coleman’s family owns an organic cotton mill in Northern California. The founders have had a hand in developing Bono’s Edun line.

All brands in the showroom––including Loomstate, Organic Men’s, Ciel and Perfectly Imperfect––are made from organic and natural fabrics and are supported through eco-conscious business practices.

The showroom has a station set up with educational brochures and literature on organic cotton, environmental causes and the organic lifestyle in general, said Coleman. —Robert McAllister