California Apparel News

NEW YORK—Cool music pumped throughout the aisles of the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, where chandeliers hung over walkways labeled as the major streets in Manhattan and multiple Internet lounges provided a chance for visitors and exhibitors to stay connected. Even the system-display shelves in the exhibitors’ booths were the same as the units featured in New York’s Museum of Modern Art. It was all part of the highly stylized vibe of the July 22–24 run of the Project Global Trade Show, which had a swanky atmosphere that felt more like a trendy nightclub than a trade show.

The show ran concurrently with two other contemporary streetwear and premium- denim shows: ENK International’s Blue show at Pier 92 and new trade show Capsule, held the Angel Orensanz Foundation Center in New York’s Lower East Side.

Now in its fourth year, Project—founded by Sam Ben-Avraham, owner of New York–based boutique Atrium—featured contemporary streetwear labels showing the latest art-inspired trends and novel denim treatments.

Exhibitors reported a strong turnout from retailers. Many said there was a bit of window shopping, but, overall, people were there to write business.

Schott NYC met with national retailers at Project, including Nordstrom’s The Rail and Bloomingdale’s, according to Chris Horsfield, vice president of product development for the New York–based company.

Horsfield said Project’s New York show has a different turnout than Project’s Las Vegas show, which will be held at the end of August.

New York is “a more a local show, with fewer booths,” he said. “That helped buyers focus. We wrote more orders, whereas the last Vegas show [in February] was more of the look-see show. Project has established itself as the window to watch, but it has reached a level of critical mass. There’s 1,400 booths in Las Vegas. [In New York,] it’s more concise.”

Retailers were placing Immediate, Back-to- School and Winter orders for Schott’s coats and apparel, Horsfield said, adding, “We are a Winter-heavy business, renowned for wool coats and leather flight jackets. Interest in wool is still growing, especially for duffles and peacoats in new colors and plaids. The new move is for flight jackets. Sales are up in both categories.”

The company also introduced more transitional product including lighter-weight styles and more styles with multiple functions. For example, the line includes a reversible nylon twill sweater jacket.

Christian Audigier was at Project promoting his Los Angeles–based labels––Ed Hardy, Christian Audigier and Smet––as well as his new Christian Audigier store, which opened in New York’s SoHo district in July. The Ed Hardy and Christian Audigier brands, which are frequently featured on HBO’s “Entourage,” have wide-ranging appeal, according to Audigier. “Everyone wears my T-shirts. I don’t even have a target customer,” he said. “I am inspired by the people I see walking down the street because my clothing is a lifestyle brand. hellip;My creations are a way of life.”

Project got its start with a mix heavy with premium-denim brands before expanding into a wide array of contemporary menswear. But the denim labels were still very much in evidence, and, for many, Project represented an opportunity to introduce new lines and fabrications.

That was the case for Brian Robbins, president of Denim Design Lab, who introduced several limited-edition fits and a new product, Black Seed denim, which is made from a specific species of cotton, referred to as “gossypium barbadense.”

“This is ideal for denim because it holds up exceptionally well over time,” said Robbins. “This material is such a luxury because the properties of the cotton are especially soft.”

DDL is also working with specialty fabrics from Cone Denim’s White Oak Mill.

“My company is known for our vintage washes, and we are focusing on selvage jeans as well as working with Black Seed denim,” Robbins explained. “I think the collaboration with Black Seed along with our continued use of Cone Denim from White Oak Mill is going to make the marketplace take even more notice of Denim Design Lab.”

Robbins credited Project with helping his company land orders with major retailers, including Bergdorf Goodman.

“I am happy to report that the line is selling well there,” he said. “This show has been good to me.”

The San Clemente, Calif.–based company also publishes a book called “Denim Design Lab: A Tribute to the Beauty of Vintage Denim,” which provides a historical road map for the denim aficionado.

Retailers at Project were looking to be wowed by new products, and Michelle Baerncopf, a buyer for Fast Eddie’s Dirty Laundry, was among them.

“I am looking for designers who show attention to detail in their pieces,” Baerncopf said. “I was particularly drawn to Arnold Zimberg because of their use of the cover stitch, which was uniquely raw. It was like nothing I had ever seen before. It was so right on.” Another hit at the show for Baerncopf was Stockholm, Sweden–based WeSC, which stands for “WeAretheSuperlativeConspiracy.” “They had a uniquely fresh skater style with an amazing color palette that will cater well to our customers,” she said. “I am shopping for a specific audience, mainly a stylish and sophisticated guy.”

Moses Edward, the designer for denim and T-shirt collection Ink Stringers, wanted to show retailers that “clothing can be as edgy as body art.”

“Art is my life,” Edward said. “It is a way of expressing yourself, and I love that I can translate my passion into clothing.”

Edward’s passion impressed Scott Cannon, buyer and president of Atlanta-based Thread House, who was browsing the line.

“I came to Project looking for edgy preppy styles,” Cannon said. “Kasil had a lot of cool things going on, and my customers love their jeans. Z Brand, Suicide King and Roar also showed some really interesting pieces.”

Additional reporting by Alison A. Nieder