ecoChic
How the fashion industry is making it easier to be green
Seasonal color trends are expected in fashion, but these days “going green” seems to be the trend du jour and it has very little to do with color preference. Fusing style and sustainability, the Green Movement in fashion calls for the preservation of the earth via chemical and toxin-free manufacturing practices and materials. In all likelihood, it seems that this ever-growing trend will become a full-fledged segment of the fashion market, as consumers (albeit slowly) become increasingly aware of the damaging effects of pollutants, pesticides, and chemicals used to manufacture clothing and accessories. “Consumers frequently ask why they should buy an organic cotton T-shirt if it doesn’t benefit their health,” says Anne Gillespie of Continuum Textiles. “I like to respond with the example of why people will buy a hybrid car; it doesn’t improve your health to drive one, but it contributes to a better world. By choosing organic cotton, you are supporting better farming practices, healthier ecosystems (water, air, and soil), healthier communities, and, ultimately, a better world.”
In the past year alone, the eco-apparel market has experienced significant growth. This category started as sporty or yoga-inspired, with the likes of Patagonia and Gaiam, but has now evolved to include chic, luxury fashion lines from highly respected designers like Linda Loudermilk. Rivaling the hottest brands on the market, these eco collections are gaining more attention. Eco fashion used to be just an annual feature in the April issue of major magazines but now there is year-round editorial coverage in regional and national magazines, as well as on the top fashion websites and hip blogs like ecoFabulous.com.
The featured fashions range from casual chic basics, like tees and denim, to complete ready-to-wear lines. Textiles used to make these contemporary fashion items include eco-friendly natural and recycled fabrics like organic cotton, Tencel, bamboo, hemp, organic denim, silk, organic wool, and eco-fleece, among others. According to Ecoganik Creative Director Genevieve Cruz, these naturally grown and organic fibers offer premium characteristics of easy care, durability, softness, permeability, static electricity resistance, as well as protection against chemical sensitivity.
However, all these positive qualities don’t come cheap. The cost of producing eco clothing is certainly higher than traditional fashion production, and of course some of that cost is reflected in the retail prices. Regarding the extra cost on the production end, designer Deborah Lindquist says, “It adds up but makes for a better world for all people involved in the design process.”
“I balance out the extra fabric expenses by cutting costs in other areas,” offers Del Forte Denim designer Tierra Del Forte. “For example, we don’t do paid advertising and spend very little on marketing. This way we are able to keep our prices in line with the rest of the premium-denim market.”
As for who is selling these “pricy” eco collections, it’s primarily a mix of eco-specific stores, fashion-forward boutiques, and department stores. Linda Loudermilk is one of the few eco designers to offer her collections in a flagship boutique, opening on Melrose Avenue in September. “We started with only high price points because of the scarcity of fabrics and the small orders,” says Loudermilk. “Now we are able to offer contemporary price points with our Loudermilk jeans, urban spa, and men’s collection. Our price points in the Luxury Eco store on Melrose will have a real range as well.”
For many retailers, the eco category poses a marketing challenge and is a risky investment in some cases. But those who are most innovative are the ones to take that risk. “We sell to trendy boutiques across the country and Stanley Korshak—because they are thinking in a new and fresh way,” says Loudermilk. “We also just sold into Harrods and will debut there in October.”
Established fashion brands are also getting in on the green market. C&C California recently announced the launch of its organic tees and tanks. Denim designers including Chip & Pepper, Genetic, James Jeans, and Joe’s Jeans, among others, are all launching eco friendly organic denim as well. Buyers seem to be ready. “When we introduced Del Forte Denim in 2005, very few buyers were familiar with the concept of eco fashion, and now most people are not only aware of the sector but are looking to add organic and sustainable labels to their assortment,” says Del Forte.
With the launch of eco-inspired sections at trade shows, all signs point to this “trend” becoming a fashion mainstay. While the fashion industry seems to be embracing the idea of going green, Linda Loudermilk is quick to point out that it will require continued innovation and fresh ideas to make it work. “This is not just about working inside the fashion industry,” she says. “Building a new category like Luxury Eco is about partnerships with people outside of your own core competency. We have a really mutually beneficial partnership with Lexus Hybrid and Origins Cosmetics. Governor Schwarzenegger has made an important statement about corporations working together to help reverse the climate crisis. This is our strategy as well—we do business outside of the box.”
In this special report, California Apparel News sheds some light on what some innovative eco designers are offering for the coming seasons.Alternative Apparel
Fusing style and function in a line of fashionable basics, Alternative Apparel debuted a new eco collection this week under the moniker Alternative Earth. Super-soft crew neck and scoop neck tees are available in organic cotton. The vintage heather fabrication that the company credits as one of their top sellers inspired the Eco-Heather collection of tees, a unisex henley, hoodies, loungewear, and a baby/toddler tee.
Eco Qualifications: In addition to producing Alternative Earth, Alternative Apparel has made a commitment to going green by forming the Alternative Reduce Reuse Recycle Team (a small committee of department managers dedicated to making the company headquarters more eco conscious).
Eco Fabrics: 100 percent organic cotton, as well as organic and recycled poly and naturally occurring rayon fibers.American Apparel
American Apparel launched its Sustainable Edition in 2002 due to “an interest in combating the toxicity of conventional cotton cultivation, which leads to even more environmental initiatives like installing solar panels and forming a Waste Diversion Materials Recovery team,” says Erika Martinez, Sustainable Representative. “We are now selling to promo companies, printers, private label, etc.,” Martinez continues. “Most all markets have shown interest in our Sustainable Edition.”
Eco Percentage: Five percent of the entire line.
Eco Fabrics: Four USDA-certified organic fabrics: California fleece, 2x1 rib, baby rib, and fine jersey. American Apparel is also currently testing regenerated fibers and bamboo, as well as expanding into colors and long-sleeve options in organic cotton and launching a recycled fiber beanie for Fall. C&C California
C&C California recently launched a new Organic Collection comprised of organic cotton versions of the super-soft tees and tanks dubbed as classics. Lauded as the brand that epitomizes California’s effortless, casual style, C&C felt it was time to bring its fashionable wares to the eco-friendly world. For Spring 2008 C&C will expand the line with dresses and a loungewear line. “California has been at the forefront of environmental issues,” says Vice President Stephen Cox. “As a California-based brand we have always been creative and forward-thinking, which led us to putting the fashionable stamp on the eco-friendly world. The Organic Collection gives us a chance to do our part in protecting and conserving our environment, while hopefully bringing awareness to all of our customers.”
Eco Qualifications: The new organic cotton fabric is produced using methods and materials that have very low impact on the environment. Hangtags also have a handful of wildflower seeds embedded in them: Simply plant the tag, give it a little water, and flowers will bloom in about a week.
Eco Fabrics: Organic cotton and fleece. In the coming seasons C&C plans to introduce innovative, natural fabrics and “breezy, green novelty pieces” into the collections.Deborah Lindquist
Designer Deborah Lindquist has used vintage and recycled materials since the launch of her business in 1983 and has been focused solely on eco-conscious fabrics since 2004. “I wanted to be part of the solution, and since I happen to be a fashion designer it made sense for me to devote my business to doing good things for the environment by making eco-conscious clothing,” she says.
Eco Qualifications: Recycled/vintage fabrics, as well as new eco fabrics. The line is produced locally and uses fair trade practices in manufacturing.
Eco Fabrics: “The entire line is made with eco fabrics including recycled/vintage cashmere, silk, kimono, sari, leather, and wool, hemp, hemp blends, organic cotton, bamboo, and soy.” Lindquist will also introduce some new peace silks and recycled polyester/Tencel fabrics in Spring 2008. Del Forte Denim
“When I was ready to start my own denim company I took a hard look at the full production process from seed to store. It became obvious immediately that conventional cotton production is very damaging to the environment,” recalls designer Tierra Del Forte. “Using organic cotton and domestic production facilities means I am able to significantly reduce the environmental impact while creating a beautiful, luxurious product. I feel really fortunate to have found a way to do what I love in a way I can feel good about and even more fortunate that Del Forte Denim has been so well received.”
Eco Percentage: 100 percent
Eco Fabrics: Past collections were made from certified organic cotton denim. For Spring 2008 new denim qualities will be introduced: “My personal favorite is a lightweight rigid denim. We are expanding our organic offering to include other cotton fabrics such as canvas and voile. We are also adding other sustainable fibers to the collection including a beautiful linen-like hemp blend,” she explains. Ecoganik
Los Angeles-based sportswear company Ecoganik has been in business for four years in the contemporary organic fashion movement. It is carving out its niche in the mainstream contemporary market with new Creative Director Genevieve Cruz. A revamped marketing campaign and current implementations of brand strategy and strengthening cater to an already eco-conscious consumer—the fashion aficionado who is earth-conscious but not at the expense of style. With a “neo-romantic meets aggressive angle on the green movement,” Cruz’s styling is wearable, comfortable, and affordable with retail price points ranging from $63 for a tank to $250 for a dress. Cruz uses ultra-soft organic fleece to create double-breasted military-style jackets and organic jersey in multi-tiered ruffle dresses.
Eco Qualifications: Active member of the Organic Trade Association (a membership-based business association that brings together policy makers, certifiers, growers, shippers, processors, manufacturers, and retailers in North America and Mexico to promote the integrity of the organic standard in North America), the OTA Fiber Council Committee, and the Co-op America Business Network. “Ecoganik is committed to promote the alternative cropping of organic, pesticide-free, and low-impact dye fiber that in turn saves the planet from further contamination and degradation. Colored organic fabric is finished with low-impact dyes, which are free of metal and mordant substances. Such dyeing processes protect the earth from waste of water and electricity, and eliminates toxic discharge runoff into the waste stream during the dyeing process.”
Eco Percentage: 100 percent
Eco Fabric: Organic cotton, Supima cotton, Tencel, and bamboo, as well as organic Supima cotton jersey and organic heathered/printed lightweight French terry being introduced for Spring 2008.Linda Loudermilk
Linda Loudermilk, an eco-fashion pioneer, has been producing what she dubs as Luxury Eco since 2002 and is always looking for fresh new ways to expand the eco category and what she does. “Everything we do is Luxury Eco, meaning it is green, hip, and exclusive,” she explains. “If it were easy more designers would do it,” says Loudermilk. “We have spent five years in grueling research and development. We are really seasoned now at figuring out what fabrics will do because we have been in the trenches. At this point we are absolutely the experts at Luxury Eco and we guard this skill very carefully.”
Eco Qualifications: Working with fabric manufacturers who use low-impact dyes, don’t have a negative impact on the water supply, are conscious of their carbon imprint, and create fabrics from renewable resources. “We are also creating lifestyle products and services for our new store, which are made entirely of sustainable materials and processes.”
Eco Percentage: 100 percent, which includes recycled, reusable, vintage, and biodegradable. “The Luxury Eco take on this is that we waste nothing and we create nothing to excess as well. So, for example, when we cut up a leather jacket to make into a new something we feel we are being earth responsible and humane. Luxury eco(nomy) is a new approach to refinement, which does not believe in excess.”
Eco Fabrics: Sasawashi (a Japanese leaf), seaweed, paperwool, bamboo, wood pulp, organic cotton, hemp satin, hand-dyed linen. “We love what Dow is doing right now, trying to rewrite their own history by creating eco-responsible fabrics and also creating campaigns that address certain critical issues. We are hoping to have a long relationship with them,” says Loudermilk. “Their Blueplanet water initiative is extremely hopeful and important. Also, we are very interested in one of their new stretch ingredients. We have a history of partnerships with fabric makers because we are all in this together. For Spring 2006 we worked with Ingeo by Natureworks LLC, the first corn fiber. Last show we worked with Seacell. This collection we are planning on working closely with Dow.”ParkVogel
Designer Julie Park and Vanessa Vogel launched their eco collection for Spring 2006. Having already established the label as a hip, contemporary collection of comfortable dresses and tops, the eco collection has been met with positive feedback from buyers, consumers, and editors.
Eco Qualifications: Dyeing machines used in the production of their goods employ ultra-low conditions that provide significant savings in energy, water, and chemicals (up to 80 percent less chemicals are used in the “air-jet” dyeing machines.) “The selection of efficient drying and curing technologies optimize and reduce energy usage and emissions to the atmosphere,” says Park. “We utilize the only textile plant in Australia, and one of only a few in the world that achieves over 85 percent recycling from spent reactive dye-baths,” explains Vogel. “Over 95 percent of waste salt is also recycled in the dyeing process, which equates to over five million liters annually of highly concentrated salt waste. The high level of sustainability achieved with these recycling and energy-saving programs reduces greenhouse gas emissions. The fabric is processed following strict guidelines of Eco-Flower, a brand of the European Union.
Eco Percentage: About 30 percent of the entire line is made with eco fabrics. “We hope that soon 100 percent of our production will be completely sustainable, but the sources are still rather limited,” says Park.
Eco Fabrics: “Our organic cotton collection is guilt-free, extra-soft, and comfy, and maintains the effortless style with simple details that people have come to expect from Parkvogel.” Sworn Virgins
Design duo Roshanne Aghevli and Alex Amini finalized their research on eco-friendly clothing production in 2005 and started shipping orders of their Sworn Virgins line in 2006. Their mission is to produce clothing with a low environmental impact. “Knowing that the garment industry is in the top five polluting industries has made us see that we can make a difference,” says Alex. “We care about these issues and make changes so that we are not contributing to that negative factor.”
Eco Qualifications: “Our extensive experience with yarns and fabric dyeing and processing allows us to create low-impact fabrications. We start at the yarn source, using organic and sustainable resources like our current favorite: bamboo,” Roshanne explains. “It is sustainable and grows like a weed and does not need pesticides and synthetic fertilizers. We eliminate and avoid treatments that use harsh toxic chemicals.”
Eco Percentage: The entire collection is made of 100 percent eco-friendly fabrics.
Eco Fabrics: The fabrics are made of bamboo and spandex, which is biodegradable. They also use organic cotton in jersey and ribs, as well as certified green processed bamboo jersey and bamboo Ponte. Bonus: All fabrics are developed to be cared for at home, no dry cleaning required because conventional dry cleaning uses toxic cleaning agents, which is well documented for the environmental impact. “We will be unveiling our new bamboo French terry, as well as new eco-friendly yarn blends.”
