California Apparel News

Computer-aided design (CAD) has become a lifesaver for apparel pattern makers, especially since the emphasis on speed-tomarket has become almost a mandate in the global marketplace. Not everyone is taking advantage of CAD, however, as manual pattern making is still commonly practiced in many cutting rooms across the Los Angeles Fashion District and beyond.

The incubator agency Fashion Business Inc. of Los Angeles hopes to help steer a few more toward automation as it launches an ongoing series of CAD training using the PAD System, produced by PAD System Technologies, based in Montreal with its North American headquarters located in the California Market Center in Los Angeles.

The next class takes place Nov. 6–9 at the FBI training center, located in The New Mart building in downtown Los Angeles. PAD vice president Kristine Gloviak will conduct the sessions, which run from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

“The first class last month was very successful, so we’re looking forward to training more pattern makers,” Gloviak said. The program is subsidized through the California Employment Training Panel, a state agency aimed at making the California workforce more competitive. In some cases, participants may qualify for up to 60 hours of free training or get reimbursed for the program, which costs $400 per student.

Participants must have an understanding of basic pattern making and have basic computer skills. The workshop is designed for freelancers and small- to large-sized manufacturers. PAD operates on Mac and Windows platforms.

The upcoming sessions will address pattern piece input, pen digitizing of muslins and drapings, new style creations from graded blocks, costing markers, made-to-measure, and importing and exporting files to other CAD systems.

FBI chose PAD because of its popularity in the local design community. “Most people say its biggest benefits [are that] it’s easiest to use, but I think the real benefit is that the users have to do less to get more out of it,” said Gloviak, explaining that there’s less data entry than other systems because it’s largely icon-driven and based on visuals. The system also features sketch areas to plan multiple pattern assembly for complex garments such as denim, bridalwear and couture pieces.

“The import/export part of the class is essential learning as patterns fly through the Internet now to contractors all over the world,” said Gloviak.

PAD is able to import and export patterns from just about every system on the market, said Gloviak.

The FBI course offers a 66-percent savings off the normal instruction cost. Gloviak estimates a good portion of PAD users never use the system to its full potential because they don’t get enough training.

“Companies want to hire a person already trained on PAD. I’d say most only use 50 percent of its benefits,” said Gloviak, who has 10 years of experience as a designer and 20 years in digital pattern making. The company’s customers include REI, Bebe and, through its contractors, Calvin Klein, DKNY and Tommy Hilfiger. The system has also been used by other industries such as the film industry to assist with animation projects such as the Disney/Pixar films “Monsters Inc.” and “The Incredibles.”

Frances Harder, executive director of FBI, said the PAD classes should be expecially valuable to upgrade the skill level of more-established designers and pattern makers.

“There is a huge group of very qualified people between, say, 35 and above who have great skills but need to have some retraining to remain competitive within the workplace,” she said. “The employer and the employee both benefit from job retraining and IT training. In order for the U.S. to retain jobs we need to invest in our future. It does not take much to invest in our existing talent and at the same time assist the apparel industry with some kind of competitive edge. PAD is a great system that is used extensively within the industry and they have a need for more trained users. The FBI has provided them with a program that makes that possible.”

For information on the ETP program, visit www.etp.ca.gov/m_process.cfm. To register for the PAD classes, visit www.fashionbizinc.org.