California Apparel News

Regional menswear buyers got a jump on Fall at the Jan. 29–30 run of the Westcoast Exclusive menswear show, held just weeks before the MAGIC Marketplace in Las Vegas later this month.

A new venue and shorter run didn’t improve buyer traffic much at the show, held at the Embassy Suites by the Los Angeles International Airport. Yet, the buyers who turned out for the two-day event got a strong preview of Fall lines and an opportunity to take care of some business before heading out to Las Vegas, where Westcoast Exclusive’s edition is called The Exclusive.

WCE, which caters to better men’s retailers, moved from the W Hotel in the Westwood area of Los Angeles to a location near the airport to provide easier access and better prices for exhibitors and buyers.

The new formula was well received, though it appeared buyers were still holding the bulk of their dollars for Las Vegas. Still, the regional show holds value, said WCE President Larry Hymes, who is also an exhibitor.

“We’ve received very positive feedback. Retailers get work done here. It’s a relaxed atmosphere,” he said.

The show, shortened to two days from three, was visited by some big-name California retailers, including At Ease in Newport Beach, Mel Fox in Encino and Barcelino from San Francisco. A more casual environment allowed exhibitors to spend more time with accounts.

“My goal at this show is to be able to present more fashionable and edgy apparel to more-traditional stores that are trying to open denim or sportswear divisions,” said J. C. Cerrillo of Chula Vista, Calif.–based Continental Leather. “It’s less scary here than it is in Vegas.”

Focus on fashion

The move into more-fashion-driven goods continued at WCE.

Sportswear with innovative finishes, cuts and treatments as well as custom suitings and luxury goods led the product offerings from about 65 lines on display.

New York–based Jhane Barnes relaunched its BarnesStorm sportswear line featuring premium denim and a slate of shirtings in iridescent finishes, laser cuts and other features such as flocked-velvet detailing and mesh constructions.

BarnesStorm was originally a sub-brand the company launched in the ’90s. For its revised version, Barnes offered denim in a variety of treatments, from a “cement” finish to denim flocked with pulverized leather. Another style featured yarn-dyed black denim, which is bleached to a light gray but eventually turns black with wear and washings. It also has an iPod pocket. Shirts featured hand bleaching with a variety of graphic designs and splatter. The denim is priced from $78 to $133 wholesale, and the shirts run $38 and up wholesale.

Hymes’ LNH Enterprises also used the show to debut a new line called Bosideng, a popular Asian brand featuring blazers, pants, knits and wovens wholesale-priced from $30 to $110.

“Most of the fabrications are from Europe and Japan. It’s sophisticated and priced really good,” said Hymes.

Also new to the show was Phillips Van Heusen, which showed shirts from Sean John, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Izod, BCBG and Kenneth Cole. Company Sales Executive Marlen Minacapelli said the company is aiming to get a larger share of the West Coast market, which is becoming more important because of its strong concentration of specialty stores.

“People are going for better goods now,” said Paris Blumenthal of Paris Blumenthal & Associates, based in Beverly Hills. “About 90 to 95 percent of my clients all had exceptional years.”

Indeed, Andy Fox, of the Mel Fox boutique in the San Fernando Valley, said his store is performing above plan.

“We’re lucky,” he said, adding that fashion in the form of premium denim and fun sportswear is what’s driving sales.

Leather makers such as Continental Leathers’ Cerrillo were finding it tough to compete with offshore manufacturers but have been providing an edge with style and unique fabrications. Cerrillo was showing his Jose-Luis line of hand-studded shirts and jackets made from oil drum–dyed lambskin and napa.

“When you wear it, it takes on a more washed and antiqued look,” he said. The line is priced around $349 wholesale.

Color remains an important element in the market, even for Fall, said Hymes. “It’s getting more sophisticated, and fashion colors are having a lot to do with it. Lots of lines are stepping out and taking risks.”

“It’s a younger-thinking market,” said Steve Mandelbaum, who was showing spicy colors for his cashmere and knit lines, including Autumn Cashmere and Yoshi Yoshi by P.J.

Elsewhere at the show, European labels such as New Man were looking to re-energize their brands in the United States. The French company was showing lots of denim-friendly items including denim shirts, hoodies, dried-look parkas, and mixed-media fabrications and shirts with spliced fabrics and open seams. The shirts and pants wholesale from $40 to $70.

“Most of it is in European cuts, and about 90 percent of the line is made from natural fibers,” said Sales Executive Mary Kay Reynolds. The company has made inroads lately selling to country clubs and golf shops.

Even more-traditional menswear channels were experiencing strength. Blumenthal’s custom-suit business via Coppley Apparel was on the gain.

“Customers are getting more particular. If you’re going to buy a suit, you might as well buy the best, so why not get a custom suit for the same price?” he said. Other items getting interest in Blumenthal’s suite were reversible zip sweaters by North 44 (wholesale-priced at $76.50), belts inlaid with colorful stones by Z&B Creazione and colorful neckwear from Italo Ferretti.

While buyer attendance was flat at WCE, indications were that the upcoming show in Las Vegas would be strong. That show moves to the Sands Expo & Convention Center in Hall B during its Feb. 19–21 run from its previous location at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center.

“We were getting feedback that the Mandalay was a bit out of the way. There will be five other shows at the Sands-Venetian complex, so it will be more centralized,” said Hymes.