California Apparel News

The desire to make just one more sale or to see just one more line is what powered Los Angeles Fashion Market Holiday/Resort ’06, which took place Aug. 11–15.

August typically is the smallest of the five markets held at downtown Los Angeles’ fashion intersection of California Market Center, The New Mart, Cooper Design Space, Gerry Building and their satellite shows, D&A Annex and Brighte Cos.

Expectations are kept low because the Resort season is short, and some retailers and vendors skip it altogether because MAGIC Marketplace in Las Vegas—the biggest market on the fashion business calendar— and its satellite shows are scheduled a few weeks later.

Still, the people who opted to show at the August market were driven by the desire to squeeze out more sales in an increasingly competitive marketplace, said Ethan Eller, general manager of The New Mart. Last September, he took a survey of his tenants, in which he asked whether the small market should be canceled. Half thought canceling the Resort market was a good idea because retail traffic is usually 30 percent less than the other markets.

The other half supported going on with the show, according to Eller. “They said if I’ll make $10 more, I’ll come to work. [Building management] will continue helping to produce the show as long as tenants want to do it.”

Building managers and showroom sales staff confirmed that many retail businesses that typically visit market did not make an appearance this time. But major department stores, such as Nordstrom and Macy’s West, and Los Angeles–area specialty stores including M. Fredric, Polkadots & Moonbeams and Diane Merrick shopped the show.

Opening day of market fell one day after British authorities foiled a major terrorist plot involving flights from London to the United States. Many exhibitors said some buyers could not make the show because of congestion at airports stoked by fears of terrorism. However, overseas retailers did shop the show. Dubai-based boutique Fleur made a $7,000 order for fashions from Alan Del Rosario, said Chanita Harris, a sales representative for Del Rosario.

The desire to check out the market compelled Wendy Freedman, owner of Los Angeles– based Polkadots & Moonbeams, to shop. However, she doubted that holding a special Resort show was a good idea, especially in a balmy place such as Southern California

“We live Resort 12 months of the year,” Freedman said. “People are just beginning to wear their fall clothes in the late summer. But I like to see the latest lines. Even if I pick up just one thing, [the market] is worth it.”

Kathy Shawver, a partner and buyer at Diane Merrick boutique, said she was enthusiastic about Resort season because its summery clothes seemed made with Los Angeles in mind. “It’s a short season, but if you buy well, you’ll sell out of your inventory.”

Shawver said Resort should not be for modest dress. Upcoming fashions may show a lot of skin and expose midriffs.

Low traffic, but high sales at CMC

The California Market Center hosted several temporary exhibits during the Holiday/ Resort market. Brighte Cos. by ENK showed contemporary and directional collections Aug. 11–14 in the Fashion Theater. Focus on 3 on the CMC’s third floor hosted women’s better, updated and bridge resources Aug. 11–15. And Transit LA Shoe Show had newly expanded footwear offerings Aug. 13–14 in the CMC’s penthouse. CMC officials reported a 6 percent increase in Resort and Cruise offerings this market.

Despite the added attractions in the building, most tenants reported sparse traffic. “It was very slow—probably because of the travel situation and because MAGIC is around the corner,” said Cynthia Rivera, national sales manager for Scrapbook. “There are just so many shows, and we can’t expect buyers to come to every one.”

Buyers from Villains, Therapy and Erica Dee visited the Ben Sherman Showroom to view the designer’s Spring 2007 offerings. “No one missed their appointment, but it wasn’t busy either,” said Cindy Giffin, the brand’s Southwest sales manager. “Most of our big clients we’ll see at MAGIC.”

John Kim, the CMC’s general manager, remained upbeat, but he did not release attendance figures. “Despite the recent events that have taken place in the world, retailers still traveled from across the globe to shop the August market,” he said.

Chris Myers, owner of the Chris Meyers Showroom, said that although his attendance was down from last August, his sales increased 40 percent on the strength of a casual lifestyle line, XCVI. Buyers from Florida, Arizona, Northern California, Oregon and Washington state made up the bulk of his business.

Meg Firestone, owner of the Neil’s and J. Russell boutiques in Palm Desert, Calif., was happy with her trip to market. “Dresses were my priority, but I ended up buying a lot of sportswear as well,” she said. Although some showrooms offered Spring previews, Firestone focused on Resort offerings. “Resort is my high season—from November through April. I bought knits, body-flattering dresses and some contemporary lines that will appeal to my Resort clients,” she reported.

Quality not quantity at The New Mart

Retailer traffic was low at The New Mart—an estimated 1,000 buyers, perhaps 20 percent less than the 2005 Resort market, said Eller, its general manager.

However, sales were good for a traditionally small market, said Dana Pederson, manager of the Charlotte Tarantola Showroom.“The buyers who did attend made substantial orders, and they are in a healthy retail environment,” Pederson said. Retailers bought clothes with delivery dates that ranged from Immediates of Aug. 30 to Dec. 30.

New showrooms, quality sales at Cooper

In spite of empty hallways, Mona Sangkala, the Cooper Design Space’s leasing director, reported a 20 percent increase in attendance in comparison with last August’s market. “We’re growing,” she said. “We have new showrooms every market, and that helps to draw buyers to the building.”

New showrooms included Tricot, Scatola Sartoriale, 7 For All Mankind and Riot.

Scatola, which had operated a showroom out of Beverly Hills, Calif., for four years, moved its operations to Cooper’s fifth floor. At approximately 6,000 square feet, the new showroom opened just in time for market. Packed with high-end and designer lines, including Vivienne Westwood, Iodice, Lefull and Nine Lives, the showroom showed only Spring and Summer 2007 offerings.

Joncarlo Domingo, the showroom’s West Coast sales rep, reported good traffic and said the showroom fielded several clients even on the last afternoon of market. “We got a lot of walkin traffic from the display window [in the lobby],” he said. Local upscale boutiques, including Diavolina, Scout, Planet Blue and Beige, shopped the showroom, as did East Coast buyers from Intermix, Calypso and Atrium.

Despite the new offerings at Cooper, most showrooms reported slower-than-usual traffic for the August market. Meghan Kratochvil, manager of the Sabrina Showroom, said that traffic was slower overall for the market, but that her sales figures matched those of last year’s August market.

At other market weeks, D&A splits its exhibitors between the third floor of The New Mart and the 11th floor of the Cooper Design Space. This season, the show exhibited only in The New Mart.

“This is never a big market, but the hallways seemed empty this time,” Kratochvil said. “It could be because D&A isn’t in the building this time. When they’re here, they bring in a lot of traffic.”

Other showrooms curbed the trauma of the historically slow market by taking their lines to their biggest clients beforehand. Drea Patino, Ya-Ya’s showroom manager, said her busiest day came before the official start of the market. “As soon as we get the new collection in, we call our major clients and take it to them or schedule an appointment here before market,” Patino said. Buyers at Ya-Ya shopped for the designer’s nautical and preppy-inspired styles.

Gerry tenants key in on strategies

Gerry Building tenants took to new strategies to get the most they could out of the market. Stacia Diamond of contemporary resource Jak & Rae showed in her Gerry showroom as well as in the Brighte Cos. show at the CMC. “We do Brighte to get new accounts and mainly service local existing accounts here,” Diamond said. “We did well with our L.A. accounts.”

Gaining interest were textured walk shorts, cape jackets, metallic-print tunics and high-waist pencil skirts. Diamond said retailers are getting touchy on pricing. “We lowered some of our price points. On pants, for example, some went from $110 down to $85. Pricing is an issue right now.”

In the Blue Marlin showroom, buyers were looking for in-season merchandise. “They’ve been ordering one to two months before deliveries,” noted Kenneth Loo, director of marketing.

The company revamped its sales force and is getting more aggressive, Loo added. As for merchandise, it has been bringing more hoodies into its line while staying true to its whimsical graphics and emblems derived from sports heritage and camp themes. Heavy fleece with felt lettering were popular items.

New tenant Amanda Ezra of the Junkyard Showroom also noticed an interest in more in-season merchandise but was pushing Spring collections nonetheless. She was scoring with tailored pants from Pixxi for $65–$85.

“The buyers are looking for a little more novelty,” she said. “Denim’s been the thing for the past couple of years. Now there’s some movement into a more tailored look.”

As elsewhere, Gerry Building showroom owners sensed a big push heading to the Las Vegas shows.

Newness at D&A Annex

Traffic also was reportedly slow at D&A Annex, but sales were to be made if a brand exhibited fresh fashions.

Swedish label Odd Molly debuted its 3- year-old line in California at D&A and got a warm reception, said brand director Per Holknekt. “We were guessing that we’d make 13 or 20 new orders.” Instead, the brand sold its casual contemporary line to more than 170 U.S. stores.

Vendors reported that retailers ordered for Oct. 30 and Nov. 30 deliveries. However, business was slow, said Matty Moeck of Maywood, Calif.–based premium brand Ever. He said most vendors had previously showed and closed sales for their collections at other shows across the country in the past month. Consequently, many vendors passed on meetings during Resort. He said they preferred to see new collections at the upcoming MAGIC Marketplace. “It’s an expected disappointement,” Moeck said of the Resort show. “We just don’t have new stuff now.”

Barbara Kramer, co-founder of D&A, said vendors managed their show expectations well. “Everyone is a grown up,” she said. “They knew that it’s an in-between market.”

Kramer said that 105 vendors exhibiting 200 brands rented space at the show, and 1,500 buyers stopped by to shop it. Next up for the New York–based trade show is a stop in the United Kingdom, where D&A will participate in a trade show Sept. 19–22 in London. Kramer said the show would be part of London Design Week.

Brighte Cos. picked up steam

The Brighte Cos. show got off to a slow start but picked up a little steam as it progressed. Exhibitors blamed the inconsistency on a number of factors.

“What’s happened over the past few days has affected travel,” noted Michelle Waller, principal of Los Angeles–based sportswear company Royal Plush, referring to the recent foiled terrorist actions in the United Kingdom.

“It appeared that only those that absolutely had to be here, made the trip,” said Coleman McCartan spokesman for New York–based ENK Productions, which productes Brighte. “Still, it was a successful show for many of our 71 exhibitors.”

That factor aside, some exhibitors noted that buyers weren’t committing too far ahead. “They’re not that prepared to write for Spring. It’s just one of those markets,” said Michael Forge, principal of Santa Monica–based Forge Ahead, which was highlighting its Pulcini tops line featuring high-gauge cotton shirts in stripes, as well as novelty prints with grinded edges in the $27–$32 range.

Others, such as Dena Kadan of Vernon, Calif.–based Switch USA, said the company was promoting an “under $99” price point on denim and pants to lure buyers. “Denim is very saturated right now so you have to have a sharp price point to break into retailers’ open-to-buy,” she said.

Others were concentrating on more feminine silhouettes. Los Angeles designer Sherry Nikka showed crepe dresses with leather trim in spicy colors from $180 to $350, as well as an assortment of roughed-up leather jackets. “Business is picking up for Summer,” she said. “Women are moving into more feminine silhouettes. They want to show their legs.”

Abigail Mickelthwate of Los Angeles–based Vintage Betty agreed, noting that interest in the company’s tulip dresses and nautical themes have picked up. The company had one of its best shows ever.

Others, such as Waller of Royal Plush, also looked to capitalize on a move for denim alternatives. “Denim is not as hot as it has been,” she said. “We’re focusing on appliqueacute; tunics, cashmere sweatsuits and leggings, though we think leggings will be an ’in and out’ trend.”

CMC Focus on 3

Showroom managers in the Focus on 3’s misses/updated section of the CMC reported slow to moderate traffic yet still managed to eke out some strong business.

“We opened up more new accounts at this market,” said Rosanne Tritica of the Betty Bottom Showroom. Added business partner Ernesto Mantilla: “The market is going to be what it’s going to be. The important thing is to capitalize on who is here and take care of them. We had buyers coming back here three and four times.”

Low prices from new resource Pretty Angel helped to spur sales. Sourced in China, the line features feminine silhouettes as low as $12.75 for camisoles. Other strong lines included jackets from Moonlight and from Anu. “You can wear them over a cami and jeans with heels or make it more funky,” Tritica said.

The showroom also had customized separates from Salaam featuring dozens of patterns in georgette, satin, crepe and other fabrics, which could be made to order for about $35 a piece.

At Sharon Koshet Sales, jackets from resources such as Isabel and Vera Cristina were the point of interest. Vera Cristina’s crocodile and snakeskin textures, as well as denim jackets, racked up some orders, but reps noticed an air of caution from their accounts.

“The customers are watching what they buy. It’s been tough for them. Hopefully, Las Vegas will be different,” said Arlet Rostamian of Vera Cristina.

Retailer Brigitte Whitlock of Berkeley, Calif., ladies boutique Persimmon agreed. “I’m buying carefully. I don’t buy so much into trends. We pick up a couple of new items at each market but stick with proven vendors.”

Satine Shutters Doors, Makes Room for Tricot

Satine boutique owners Jeannie Lee and Sophia Banks have shuttered their two eponymous showrooms in Los Angeles and New York. Vivian Patao, former sales director for Satine’s Los Angeles showroom, rented Satine’s former space in the Cooper Design Space and retained seven of the showroom’s lines, including Mon Petit Oiseau, Sue Stemp, Fleur Wood, Golden Cast, Les Prairies de Paris, Alana Moses, Webster and Deere Colhoun.

’Tricot will have the same sort of feeling as Satine and a similar deacute;cor and concept,” Patao said. “We’ll have high-end and contemporary designers and collections, but I’ll put my own stamp on it.”

Lee and Banks will go forward with the Satine boutique, on West Third Street in Los Angeles, and will focus on growing their private label line of footwear, S&J. —E.B.