California Apparel News

The buyers who came to the California Market Center Oct. 13–16 for the Los Angeles Junior & Contemporary Majors Market were on a roll and ready to place orders, according to sales representatives who said this season’s clean, innovative mix of nostalgic and trendy styles made retailers optimistic for Spring.

Retail turnout included buyers from Macy’s, J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Dillard’s Inc., Tilly’s and Charlotte Russe Inc.

The October market tends to draw many department store and specialty chain buyers who are on the hunt for new junior and contemporary merchandise.

The CMC does not release attendance figures for any of its market weeks, and at this market, buyers tended to head straight for their appointments rather than stop and register in the lobby. The halls and many showrooms were bustling with activity, and buyers turned out in full force at events sponsored by the Directives West and Barbara Fields buying offices (see related stories on page here).

“In talking with our major buying-office tenants, they could not be happier regarding the quality, quantity and upbeat mood of the retailers at this market,” said Cecil Strickland, executive director of retail relations for the CMC.

In addition to more than 22 permanent junior showrooms, the CMC had 151 visiting junior and contemporary showrooms at the market.

In recent seasons, buyers had been taking a cautious stance, buying lightly and very close to season. But at the Los Angeles market, reps said buyers were optimistic and looking for novelty items.

“We’re kicking butt and taking names,” said Jim Knapp, divisional vice president of kids for Bealls Inc., a 68-store chain based in Florida. “Business is crisp, and we’re aggressively looking for new opportunities.”

Knapp said his budget for Spring was 10 percent higher than last year’s.

Jeffrey Davis, a buyer for tween chain Zutopia, said his budget was slightly higher than last year’s and he was ready to place orders for Spring. At the show, he hunted for bottoms made with knit and woven fabrications for the chain, owned by Foothill Ranch, Calif.–based The Wet Seal Inc.

“Some people have it, and some aren’t quite there,” said Davis. “They’re still in the old denim world, and that isn’t truly the trend right now.”

Davis, who described Zutopia’s tween customer as “fashion-driven,” said there’s plenty of room for edgy styles at the company’s 31 stores. “A lot of the vendors here think very similar, and we’re looking for something that’s different,” he said.

Junior resources that expected sales to be soft this year were surprised by a strong increase in consumer confidence during the Back-to-School season. Bongo Jeans plans to increase its sales 15 percent over last year’s, according to Bongo Jeans President Gary Bader.

Indeed, several junior vendors said misses companies that are eager to cash in on similar trendy styles have affected the market. “There are more trendy styles for women at retail this year than ever before,” Bader said, adding that his company is adding larger sizes to its trendy mix.

Following better-than-anticipated Back-to-School sales, JCPenney is trying to repeat those results in Spring 2004 by adding several key items to its junior offerings, according to buyer Caroline Bower. The Plano, Texas–based retailer has already placed orders for miniskirts in several styles, as well as for trendy, bright knit tops. “Bright colors will give our business a boost in Spring,” Bower said.

Mod block-print dresses, tissuejersey shirts, layered knit skirts, preppy skirts and knit shirts in bright-pink, yellow and green fabrications were hot items in Luna Chix’s Spring 2004 collection. Co-owner Karen Frazier booked appointments with junior chain retailers Wet Seal, Delia’s Corp. and Windsor.

Buyers buzzed around Heart & Soul’s showroom, which reported brisk business during market. The line—which specializes in career sportswear, dresses and related separates with wholesale prices that range from $9 to $14—caught the attention of several department store buyers, including buyers from Dillard’s, who were interested in a black halter top and white trousers, both with daisy appliqueacute;s, and mod engineered- stripe knit tops.

Heart & Soul designer Sabrica Pattyson said a cluttered junior market has forced some companies to get edgier with their styles. Creating trendy styles at just the right price point continues to be a challenge for junior apparel makers, she said.

“We’ve tried to keep our collection diverse, with something to offer a wide range of female customers,” she explained. “But there are others who offer separates at sharper prices, which makes our overall business a little tough.”

High price points were a concern for a few buyers, including Beatriz Dosal of Sexy Jeans, which owns and operates 25 stores in Mexico. Dosal said she decided to stick with some of the more moderately priced junior lines, such as Say What?, Betty Blue and Body Code.

New to market

New resource EX-T.C. (Extreme Trend Clothing), which produces cute and edgy knit tops through various contractors near downtown Los Angeles, projects sales will reach the $1 million mark this year, according to merchandiser Laurie Costa. So far, the six-month-old company, owned by JRL Industries in Anaheim, Calif., has 40 accounts, including Dali and Electric Chair, both in Huntington Beach, Calif.

Hot Tempered, an items-driven junior apparel company based in Commerce, Calif., was another newcomer to this year’s market. Hot Tempered combines new wave and 1950s styles in nylon tops with stripes and metallic details, jagged-edged skirts with brooch embellishments, and circle skirts with floral appliqueacute;s. Wholesale price points range from $7.50 to $17.50.

The company declined to give first-year projections. However, last season it shipped nearly 1 million units of its “Marilyn” silhouette to retailers such as Federated Department Stores Inc., The May Department Stores Co., Charlotte Russe, Kohl’s and JCPenney, according to Hot Tempered President Daniel Sheehan. “Having a good mix of the right product is why we’re having a rockin’ year,” he said.

Other key looks at this year’s junior market included Marc Jacobs–inspired pantsuits, tank tops in intimate silhouettes and fabrications, sophisticated tweed jackets and skirts with jeweled chain embellishments, pleated denim miniskirts, and lots of hardware accessories.