California Apparel News

Los Angeles knitwear designer Kristopher Enuke is parlaying the artistry he learned making fine sweaters into a high-end women’s denim collection called Oligo Tissew, which the designer says means “refined cloth.”

The self-proclaimed avant-garde fashion designer, who launched a hand-knit contemporary sweater line 10 years ago under the Oliver Twist label, debuted his denim line late last year. The 16- piece collection is geared toward women between the ages of 20 and 45 who have refined tastes and an eye for detail, said Enuke.

Oligo Tissew’s eclectic denim collection features hand stitching and pocket details, as well as novelty washes.

Enuke works with local dye houses to find the perfect wash for each piece of fabric. “That’s how we create the pedigree of the jean,” he said.

GI Jane, California, Desirae, Jewel, Violet, Starz and Pussy Willow are the names of Enuke’s denim styles, which come in novelty washes such as Desert Storm, Gold Rush, Gold Miner, Medium Dingo, Pocket in the Sky, Wang Yu and Nicely Aged.

“I don’t want to offer customers more than they can absorb,” Enuke explained. “We start with something that has a five-pocket jean feel, and then we put our forward-thinking into the fit and stylings.”

With Fall 2003 deliveries running June 30, July 30 and Aug. 30, the line wholesales from $75 for basic low-rise denim pants to $109 for a fitted, denim jacket with multi-stitch, welted pockets and riveted, raw-edge cuffs.

Currently, Oligo Tissew denim pants sell for $180 a pair at specialty retailers such as Big Drop, Madison and American Rag. Better retail heavyweights, such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman, are also disciples of the brand.

“[Oligo Tissew’s] denim collection has a lot of unique qualities that draw customers to the brand,” said Madison Owner Mark Goldstein, who noted the collection is a favorite among young hipsters who frequent his Los Angeles boutique.

Enuke declined to give projections for the line, but he said it was off to a good start with buyers from Fred Segal and Bloomingdale’s dropping immediate orders in the five-figure range.

In a nod to his sweater line Oliver Twist, Enuke said details on the Oligo Tissew jeans reference Charles Dickens’ main character in “Oliver Twist.” A red bow on the back pocket of the jeans commemorates children born into unfortunate circumstances. The line sheet says “the remembrance bow reminds us not to forget them in their struggle to find their nobility.” A three-dimensional star, also on the back pocket of the jeans, signifies how children who are nurtured carry within them the possibility of stardom, said Enuke.

Each pair of denim has copper buttons with Enuke’s profile and rivets with the “OT” logo.

“By adding eccentric details, it guarantees the collection’s uniqueness,” Enuke said.

The Nigerian-born sweater designer has been in the apparel business for more than 10 years. He grew up in England, where he attended boarding schools and dreamt of becoming a designer. In 1982, Enuke moved to Los Angeles, where he earned a bachelor’s degree in fashion design at Otis College of Art and Design. After graduation, he worked a few stints at local contemporary labels, including BCBG Max Azria.

Enuke was one of the original members of the Coalition of Los Angeles Designers, shortly after it was founded in 1998. Other early CLAD members included Monah Li, Cynthia Vincent, Fever Jeans’ John Cherpas and Kelly Delkescamp, Anna Huling and Talking to Angels’ Anita Arze.

“At the time, some of us didn’t even have enough money to pay our dues,” Enuke said. “But the spirit was there, and we made it. And, we went on to find our own niche in fashion.”

Enuke plans to debut an Oligo Tissew denim collection for men at Designers & Agents during the Spring 2004 New York Market Week. —Claudia Figueroa