Findings and Trimmings Suppliers Count On Technology for Speed
Findings and trimmings suppliers and contractors have been relying more than ever on technology to speed up the production process as time-to-market remains the key ingredient to competing locally and globally.
With faster, more streamlined and efficient equipment, domestic garment manufacturers have been able to improve their production cycles and compete better against offshore producers. Computer technology has been the main factor behind the advancements of embroidery, cutting, printing and other tools, as new software and hardware systems are capable of doing most intricate stitching, printing and other applications in hours rather than days. With denim and sportswear continuing strong, these services are becoming more important, explained contractor Robert Reed of Los A n g e l e s - b a s e d Stitches Inc.
Because of shifting fashion cycles, demand for findings and trimmings products and services can change like the wind.
“You have to be able to adapt,” Reed said. “Ruffling was big two months ago. Then there was a big run on grommets because of the lace-up peasant tops that were hot. In some cases you don’t need the latest technology. We used old equipment for a recent job, but then there are some who are now doing seamless knitwear, which are done using [tubular] technology.”
Regardless of the technology being used, the key ingredient to success is speed, said Reed.
Embroidery companies such as Los Angeles- based 3-D Embroidery Mills are turning around sample orders in less than a day in some cases thanks to computerized embroidery machines, which can produce a quality that replicates hand-embroidered specialty stitching, explained 3-D’s Michael Younessi. As for volume, the machines helped 3-D turn out up to 250,000 units per week.
Companies including Brother International Corp., Tajima America, MacPherson, Melco and ZSK are among the leading suppliers. Among the new technologies coming out is Melco’s Amaya embroidery system, which is a modular system with automatic thread tensioning, laser tracking and 16 needles. The system is among the first modular systems on the market, meaning it can be built up according to a manufacturer’s needs. The system can be configured as a single head unit or with up to 30 heads. Users can change the configuration at any time, with any head combination to meet their production needs. It uses an Ethernet network allowing multiple units to operate in sync from a single computer.
Similar technologies are being applied to other tools such as eyelet and buttonhole machines, giving findings and trimmings contractors more opportunities to speed up the production process. Richmond, Va.- based AMF/Reece has released new equipment that uses electronic technology that automates cutting-length changes and cycle sewing for various applications.
AMF products such as the S-5000 lockstitch buttonhole machine are run by a microprocessor that eliminates mechanical adjustments so that buttonhole parameters can be adjusted on a control panel. This allows for automatic settings for features such as stitch-bite widths. It can store up to 10 buttonholes in memory. Some of this technology is carried over to eyelet machines, which now can be operated at speeds above 2,000 spms. AMF’s XL-21, for example, has adjustable flybars, pneumatic clamping and electronic stop motions.
Technology is also helping trimmings suppliers such as Talon International, a division of Woodland Hills, Calif.-based Tagit Pacific Inc., make headway with zippers and other hardware. Tagit recently launched a new fly-piece zipper system, which allows denim manufacturers to sew a continuous zipper chain onto fly-pieces and then automatically assemble the chain, stops and slider into finished zippers and fly-pieces that can be sewn directly into garments.
That will help Talon grab a bigger piece of the pie going forward, said Talon chief executive officer Colin Dyne.
“The need for automated equipment is increasing as labor costs rise,” he explained. “In the past, Talon was unable to offer large centralized jean makers automatic zipper flypiece assembly systems, and this has kept Talon from being able to effectively compete for business from these high-volume customers. This new automatic zipper fly-piece assembly system is a critical element in our ability to effectively grow our market share in the bottoms market, which represents a large portion of the available zipper business in the Western Hemisphere.”
Other trimmings suppliers are also taking advantage of emerging technology offerings. Labels supplier Paxar of White Plains, N.Y., is experimenting with illuminates in its woven labels to help detect counterfeit goods. In order to utilize the illuminates, company product inspectors flash hand-held scanners above the labels. The scanners can see the embedded dust-like illuminated materials and authenticate the goods. The illuminates cannot be seen with the naked eye.
Other tag and label producers such as Greensboro, N.C.-based Avery Dennison continue to develop proprietary self-adhesive coating, converting, micro-replication and film extrusion processes to improve tags and labels for apparel manufacturers. The company recently expanded its offerings, which are now in three categories: woven labels, printed fabric labels and permanent care labels to better identify garment type, whether it’s a dry clean item or waistband item, etc.
Investments in these new technologies are expected to remain flat to slow as all sectors of the industry remain challenged by slow growth at retail and a lackluster economy. Technology executives nonetheless continue to appeal to findings and trimmings suppliers and contractors to use technology to gain an edge during slower periods.
