California Apparel News

Junior resources were checking strongly during the California Market Center’s (CMC) Spring 2003 Junior & Contemporary Market Oct. 7–10, as anxious buyers and exhibitors tried to home in on fashion salves that would break a dampened shopping streak.

The CMC reported that temporary space for visiting resources was sold out and that the retail traffic included major retailers Marshall Field’s, Robinsons-May, Saks, Sears, Kohl’s, Macy’s and JCPenney, according to Karen Mamont, director of public relations and marketing for the CMC.

“We had a very successful turnout of major-volume retailers during this market,” said Mamont. “We appreciate the important contributions our resident buying offices make in order to attract large numbers of the major retailers who find it so important to come to California because Spring breaks in California.”

Diverse novelty merchandise and a jump on upcoming trends helped fuel the strong market, according to Merrie Santoro, West Coast sales director for Jessica McClintock.

“When the buyers come to California, they are searching for what made California successful in the 1970s—variety,” said Santoro. “First, it was Europe, then New York, and now it’s California, because there’s more freedom of creativity out here. The things that are happening right now are from here and I think the rest of the country is just now catching on.”

Santoro said that her showroom was busy with buyers who were looking for novelty items.

“Basic is not what they are looking for,” she said. “I think they are looking for something with a bit more fantasy attached to it, whether that is fun and whimsical, or romantic. The clothes have to have an element of setting a mood and when something strikes someone’s eye, they want it.”

Appointments were key for such exhibitors as Ron Mata of Access Basic Jeans, who reported brisk business.

“We had chain stores that came in and booked merchandise for immediate delivery, so business is good,” said Mata. “It’s been busy for us and I think that is indicative of the fact that people are looking for merchandise right now. We stock goods all year long and every month we have goods coming in, so when they are looking for immediates, the orders are substantial.”

Mata reported doing business with a number of catalog houses, which was also the case with Diane Levin, a rep for Two Dog Star and Match, who said she did “true Spring ’03 business.”

“I’m more of a specialty store showroom and I’m dealing with catalogs,” said Levin. “It’s been pretty consistent as far as appointments and I wasn’t expecting a huge walk-up turnout. For us, it’s been true Spring ’03 that the buyers are looking for.”

Levin said that novelty was important to the buyers who came for Two Dog Star’s printed pants and interpretations of better contemporary, as well as the reversible prints in skirts.

Several visiting resources were on hand to break their designs on the West Coast and/or establish a West Coast sales presence, including Marc Goldberg, a rep for New York-based Marithe & Francois Girbaud, who said that the company was re-launching the line and searching for a West Coast rep.

“The traffic has not been great, but I’ve made some good contacts and we’ve gotten great reactions,” said Goldberg. “We have a nice little buzz going with the stores. I had key appointments and did my due diligence.”

Goldberg said that key pieces were sailor pants, a cargo look and very feminine looks in earth tones.

Robbie Regina, one of the partners of New York-based Younique, said that October market is a big market for his company.

“October is the break of our Spring line and we’re getting a real good indication of what’s happening,” he said. “We had all appointments with all the majors we do business with—May Co., Federated, [JCPenney], Sears and Kohl’s. They are looking for the next step of what’s happening for Spring.”

Regina said that business hasn’t been great at retail, so the buyers are searching for the next thing in fashion.

“The tendency is to go back to what is safe, but I think it’s the time to experiment, because the customer needs something new and fresh to keep them in the stores,” he said.

Construction on the CMC’s seventh and eighth floors put a damper on the mood but didn’t deter sales, said permanent CMC tenant Woody Morris, who reps a sweater and denim line called MDM Collections.

quot;This is one of the strongest markets we’ve seen in a long time in L.A.,” he said. “We weren’t very happy with all of the construction going on, but in spite of that, it’s been a decent week. [Buyers are] looking for future.”

Morris suggested that the Junior & Contemporary Market be held twice annually to attract more East Coast customers.Buyers Hunt for Breakthroughs

Retailers were hoping to devote their precious real estate to items other than bohemian styles, though some reported they weren’t seeing the new, must-have breakthrough trend.

quot;We still don’t have a clear picture,” said Callie Wilson, a buyer with Ontario, Calif.-based Anchor Blue, who also attends MAGIC International and visits New York. “So far, I’m seeing some directional tops at Tempted and freshness of colors and silhouettes in the tops at Coolwear.”

Some buyers, including Torrid’s Sylvia Niles, were getting creative and trying to mix and match styles.

“We try to combine the body of one item and print of another,” said Niles, who gravitated toward Hot Kiss dresses and Aziz knits and wovens.

For those seeking denim, novelty was the byword.

“So far so good,” said Jennifer Mitchell, a denim buyer for Rich’s/Lazarus/Goldsmith’s, divisions of Cincinnati-based Federated Department Stores. “Because it’s L.A., I’m seeing a lot of novelty in embroidery, belting and texture.”

Mitchell said there has been a slowdown in denim but that it “could be worse.”

“We’re just making sure that every style is evaluated and re-evaluated,” she said.

New denim alternatives including linen belted pants in both stripes and solids and cargo looks by Zinc and Jaclyn B caught the eye of Dillard’s buyer Caroline Drummond.

“We like the looks we’re seeing—they’re a lot cleaner and crisper with less prints,” Drummond said.

Buyers weren’t ignoring the influence of youth culture icons, including singer Avril Lavigne, who has inspired a more sporty, athletic style among teenagers.“We’re seeing T-shirts with more screen prints that are more rebellious, have more attitude,” said Alicia Kagel, a juniors buyer with the Crazy Jay’s store in San Luis Obispo, Calif.

The mood for buyers was upbeat, but they remained cautious going forward into the do-or-die fourth quarter.

“We’re not without concern,” said Paula Masters, president and chief merchandising officer of Carrollton, Texas-based Gadzooks Inc. “The key for us is managing inventory and staying ahead of trends to avoid markdowns and price wars.”

One way Gadzooks plans to maintain a sharp fashion eye is by increasing its number of visits to Los Angeles from two visits to six to eight visits a year.

“We plan to visit the showrooms and also get a read on trends by visiting the area’s great retail environment,” Masters said.

Still, despite the difficulties retailers are facing, including softening in the juniors market, Bill Wakefield, president of Wakefield’s, a six-unit chain based in Anniston, Ala., remains bullish regarding the almighty junior dollar.

“The junior customer will do anything to buy,” Wakefield said. “We just need to figure out what she wants.”Events Boost Traffic

Several resident buying offices in the CMC added to the market’s retail traffic with seminars and other events.

Events included fashion presentations by the Barbara Fields Buying Office and Directives West Buying Office (see coverage here); a seminar titled “Dressing Youth Culture Icons,” hosted by wardrobe stylist and fashion editor Stephanie Wolf; and the debut Los Angeles screening of the independent skate documentary “AKA Girl Skater,” hosted by Gallaz, the women’s skateboard apparel division of Globe Manufacturing, in the CMC’s Fashion Theater.

Exhibitors also got involved in providing some visual stimulation for the buyers. Los Angeles-based Zinc created a pharmacy theme, replete with an impulse counter lined with boxes of candy bars, prompting buyers to pop in with compliments, while Younique recreated a typical New York club scene with red velvet rope and a beefy bouncer.

Teen Trends and Girl SkatersStephanie Wolf understands youth culture. “I’ve always gravitated toward that junior, skater style—that’s just where I feel most comfortable.” And with as much under her belt as fashion stylist to such pop icons as Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera and Avril Lavigne, teen trend consultant and former fashion editor for Teen magazine and California Apparel News, she should.

On Oct. 7, Wolf shared her knowledge and insight during an informal seminar titled “Dressing Youth Culture Icons.” The seminar was held in conjunction with the Junior & Contemporary Market at the California Market Center and offered retailers and others a chance to exchange an understanding between the youth culture, their buying needs and the business of retailing.

On a similar note, Gallaz, the Torrance, Calif.-based female skateboard shoe brand, hosted a special screening of“AKA: Girl Skater,” a documentary film on female skateboarding, on Oct. 8 in the California Market Center Fashion Theater. The 26-minute film shows a raw and sometimes humorous glimpse of the lives of four female professional skaters—Amy Caron, Vanessa Torres, Jaime Reyes and Monica Shaw—during the inaugural All Girls Skate Tour in Australia. Gallaz recently launched its new apparel and accessories line and is the girls’ division of Globe Manufacturing. —Joselle Yokogawa