California Apparel News

Skate shoes and apparel, including streetwear, dominated over surf gear and the barely showing snow gear category at the Sept. 6–8 edition of Laguna Beach, Calif.-based VNU Expo’s Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo (ASR), held at the San Diego Convention Center.

The show drew some complaints about traffic being down. The actual decrease was about 1,000—from 20,200 last September, according to Court Overin, general manager of ASR, but only 120 of that represented buyers.

One number that did increase was the number of companies exhibiting—up by 50—which prompted the show to increase its exhibition space, making it the largest installment in its history.

Overall, exhibitors were reporting good results, and a number of designers reported that they had elected to show at ASR instead of at MAGIC International.

Sales representative Michelle Oblath of Santa Ana, Calif.-based Split Inc., which showed at Surf Expo but not at MAGIC, said they’d been “booked solid,” adding, “No one’s done a no-show on me.” And Piney Khan, the public relations director ofLake Forest, Calif.-based Etnies, said, “We’ve done Surf Expo and the Surfboard [show] in Vegas, and the buyers are focused at ASR.”

Junior exhibitor Deesse also found that ASR works better for its category. “The ASR and Surf Expo trade shows are much more targeted to our specific market,” said owner Olary Yim of the Gardena, Calif.-based firm. “Junior customers will cross over to action sports, [so] we can be more aligned with that category than [at] MAGIC.”

Eden Rock of Torrance, Calif.-based Sunsets Separates, a swimwear line, was more to the point, complaining that showing at MAGIC could actually hurt one’s business. “Nobody writes at MAGIC,” said Rock. “Everyone sees lines early, then knocks them off. We look fresh at ASR because no one has seen us. Swim is hard for everybody this year, [but] people are writing and buying [at ASR].”

Some exhibitors, including Etnies and Split, boosted their orders by offering discounts for placing orders at the show. According to Oblath, more than 75 percent of buyers dropped paper, something she attributes to Split’s 3 percent ASR booking discount.

Energy in Skate

Ten-year-old Volcom in Costa Mesa, Calif., one of the few brands to successfully cross over into the surf, skate and snow categories, saw the market at ASR dominated by the skate category. “It seems like the big push is on skate and street apparel,” said Volcom sales manager Tom Ruiz. “And the footwear lines are strong. There’s a little bit less energy in the surf market.”

That point was driven home by the showing of older lines such as Santa Fe Springs, Calif.-based Vans Inc., the 40-year-old shoe company that launched an apparel line seven years ago to a false start, then relaunched three years ago with success. “This is the best it’s ever been for [skate] apparel,” said Vans head designer Thom Gridley. “Surf is diffused and skate is thriving.”

While skate may have dominated the show, surf held its own, and in the case of some labels, including traditional surf brand Billabong out of Irvine, Calif., demonstrated considerable strength.

Billabong’s chief executive officer, Paul Naude, said he has not seen any downturn in his company’s delivery of surf gear. “Our growth in the last year has been in excess of 30 percent,” he said.

Naude, however, doesn’t deny the encroachment of skate onto surf territory. Billabong purchased skatewear maker Element for an undisclosed price this past July. “Skate is the flavor of the times,” Naude said. “It’s moving from the anti-establishment to [being] a widely accepted sport, and that’s a positive thing. It only adds to the momentum of action sports.”

Back to Basics

Designers were reporting a return to basic styles and construction, embracing traditional patterns and athletic looks, adding more denim without the tech add-ons, and creating more durable, easy-care garments.

“Almost every item [in our offering] is crease-resistant, and the shirts are soil-resistant,” said Carla Tomson, director of design for Carpinteria, Calif.-based Solitude. “Everything is machine wash, tumble dry. Board shorts have microfibers and yarn-dyed knits have done great.”

Vans has also been working with yarn-dyed knits, as well as basic denims with cord shorts. Under the guidance of Gridley, appointed head designer three months ago, its Spring looks featured muted colors, including charcoal and silver shirts, camel cords with red stitching and double-print maroon Jacquard shirts. “We used to be everything to everyone, and now we’re tuning out the noise,” Gridley said.

The push of denim continued, led by Huntington Beach, Calif-based Quiksilver, which launched its “biggest yet” jean debut, according to design director Jason Bleick. This year’s 14 styles, in regular, relaxed and loose fits, represented an increase from the three styles shown last year. “Our sell-through [for denim] has been excellent and we think the momentum is still building,” Bleick said. “We plan to expand the line further for Fall.”

Split launched its biggest junior line in two years. The 70-piece collection featured a palette of grass green, poolside blue and hot coral. Tops had cap and split sleeves and scooped hems. Styling included shirred sides and screened-on graffiti prints. Both solid miniskirts and vintage Hawaiian floral knee-length cotton twill skirts with side vents were checking.

Etnies, which focuses on skate, held onto its minimalist presentation, realizing that competition is increasing in the category. “A lot of major companies are trying to get a piece of the pie. Urbanwear is coming back in, but I’m surprised to see companies like Guess here,” Khan said.

Buyers prowling for key trends included representatives from Limited Too, Millers Outpost/Juxtapose, Nordstrom, Ross Stores, Sport Chalet, Champs and Macy’s West, along with key surf and skate shops including Hobie Sports Ltd., Ron Jon Surf Shop and others.

Pam Hunzicker, a buyer for the 10-store Covina, Calif.-based chain Chick’sSporting Goods, was on the hunt for the uniform look in separates, as well as cropped pants, which were selling well at its stores.

“Fashion footwear, especially sandals, is huge for us right now,” Hunzicker said. “In Southern California, the cropped pants and sandals is a yearlong look.”

Some of the more fashion-focused lines worried buyers catering to core customers.

Of course, some of the majors, including Steven Burnett, a buyer at Seattle-based Bon Marcheacute;, a division of Federated Department Stores, said being a well-established retail veteran isn’t always in one’s best interest.

“We’re not welcome at the booths,” Burnett said with a smile. “They don’t want to see department stores. This is more of a specialty-store show.”

Show Matures

ASR has garnered a reputation in the past for being a party show, and this year was no exception, with consistently heavy traffic being seen near booths, including those of Op, with its beer parties; Reef, with its female models in Brazilian-cut bikinis; and new skate and streetwear resource LRG, with its live deejays.

However, the show is more toned down now than it used to be and is being recognized for the business that gets done at it. “People [at ASR] are serious,” said Khan. “People are laying it down. Maybe it’s the nature of our business—we’re young and athletic—we can party and still take care of business.”

John Tessner, co-owner of the three-store skate and surfwear chain Fuel, based in Stayton, Ore., said he was impressed by the professionalism at the show.

“Vendors were here on time—at 9 a.m.,” he noted. “In years past, booths weren’t open till noon since the vendors were out partying.”

ASR may be as much play as work, but the vendors take advantage of the show’s relaxed atmosphere to get more from their customers. “ASR is still a mom-and-pop show and a place to get great feedback,” said Dana Dartez, design director for Roxy. “This is our core customer and we feel at home here.”