California Apparel News

Less than one month after the terrorist attacks that physically impacted New York and Washington, D.C., but psychologically impacted the entire nation and nearly every industry, the Urban Suburban trade show, a showcase for young men’s urban labels that was held Oct. 1–3 at the California Mart, opened to slow traffic.

“It’s slow, but we knew [it would be] coming in,” said Tony Sugden, owner of Santa Barbara, Calif.-based Bed Stu, a line of high-end Italian-made shoes. “We needed to see what’s happening in the market.”

He remained hopeful that the traffic would pick up eventually. “It ain’t over till it’s over,” he said. “It’s happened in shows that were dead until the last minute.”

Sugden said his 12-year-old company works with retailers including Journey’s, Hot Topic, Nordstrom and independent boutiques nationwide. At the show, the company saw walk-in traffic but few orders.

Sales rep Evan Jacobowitz of Los Angeles-based North Peak had better luck, reporting that while the buyers weren’t lined up, some did place orders.

“It’s going OK, just slow,” said Jacobowitz. “I had five appointments set up and I’m hoping to get some walk-up traffic as well. Those of us who had time to call ahead of time—it paid off.”

Jacobowitz said his main buyers are based in Northern California, but that several key Los Angeles accounts were showing up, although he added that they were not placing many orders.

“It seems like everybody here is in a wait-and-see attitude,” he said.

The Southern California retailers who were buying were looking for basics, including cotton T-shirts and denim plaid cotton shirts, said Jacobowitz, who added that his Northern California accounts were already buying heavier sweaters and jackets.

Jacobowitz blamed the buyers’ hesitation on a drop in consumer confidence following the Sept. 11 attacks but held hope that the upcoming holiday season would revive consumer spending.

“I can’t wait for people to start buying gifts again and be in a good mood again,” he said. “I know it will pick back up after this holiday. When it is about your loved ones, and when our leaders show they can protect us, we’ll feel better.”

Drew Jamal Evans, a sales rep from Los Angeles-based Gat Jeans, was also hopeful before show’s end.

“It’s still Tuesday, so there’s time,” he said on the second day of the show. “Maybe I’ll get that big order.”

The slow traffic at Urban Suburban didn’t exactly come as a surprise to the Cal Mart, according to Karen Mamont, public relations executive for the Cal Mart.

“After what’s happened in the country, we didn’t expect to have the busiest show,” she said. “We did expect that maybe it would be a little softer than we had hoped for our third [Urban Suburban] show, but we were happy with the outcome anyway.”

Chris Watkins, owner of Los Angeles-based Streetwise Sales, which represents Varcity, Baby Phat, Schotts and Phat Farm Kids, was undaunted by the lack of traffic. Watkins set up appointments ahead of time and said that his accounts were shopping for the variety of brands he offers.

“The show is strong and business is good,” he said. “I can’t complain. I scheduled about five appointments a day, but I also had a lot of walk-in traffic. I’m seeing my regular guys I do business with. People are leaving paper.”

Varcity’s success at the show is in line with the Cal Mart’s desire for appointments to be an integral part of Urban Suburban.

“The Cal Mart advertises, we also send out postcards and we bring the exhibitors in at minimal cost,” said Mamont. “Our contribution is higher than what we charge them to exhibit in the show. We do expect them to make appointments [because] this is an appointment-oriented show.”

The show’s traffic may not have set any records, but visiting retailers didn’t seem to mind. Most expressed relief at the ease of conducting business on the relatively empty fourth floor of the Cal Mart.

“It’s quiet and I like it better that way—things aren’t as congested,” said Ken Turner, co-owner of the newly opened urban store It’s On! in Las Vegas. “It’s more comfortable for the buyer and there isn’t a lot of pushing and shoving going on.”

Turner was referring to the antics and bustle at August’s MAGIC International show in Las Vegas, where navigating the crowds of the streetwear section can prove tricky.

“I don’t feel rushed,” added Mike Devore, co-owner of Hoodstok, a new hip-hop apparel, clubwear and beachwear shop in Pasadena, Calif. “It’s more of a show to do business at than hang out at like MAGIC.”

Devore said he was optimistic about his store’s future despite getting off to a rocky start following the tragic events of Sept. 11.

“Our sales are picking up every week,” he said. “The warm weather hasn’t helped sales of our long-sleeved clothing, but we’re confident that things will turn around.”

For their part, buyers remained focused at Urban Suburban. They had set up appointments and were dropping paper for Holiday and Spring shipments. J.Lo’s line was requiring a $2,500 minimum order, and the Avirex showroom was asking for $5,000 purchases from first-time buyers.

Retailer Hiro Tsukino of Main Condition in Los Angeles made appointments for the show but was also walking the floor.

“We’ve placed some orders,” he said. “They sent us a list of exhibitors, so we knew what we wanted. We expected more people. We bought Girbaud, Phat Farm, Sean John, Rocawear and Mecca, and we always look at the new stuff.”

Denim-driven lines, polo shirts by Mecca and warm-up suits by Rocawear Jr. were some of the key items and trends retailers were seeking at the show.

“Velour suits are hot,” Devore said. “And, people will be wanting terry suits in the spring.”

Devore’s standout order was for denim jeans, jumpsuits and tops by J.Lo, he said.

“The line is really hot and very sexy, which will sell well—people want sexy,” he added.