California Apparel News

Exhibitors in both the California Mart and the New Mart reported slow traffic during the June 1–5 Fall II/Holiday market, but many noted that the buyers who did stop in were leaving paper for key items. Some reps thought that buyers were cautious due to the ongoing possibility of a recession and over-inventoried positions in their stores.

“Where is everybody?” said Emily Clark, rep for Cal Mart showroom Morgan De Toi.“It’s been quiet. But that’s not strange for this market.”

Clark said most buyers dropped in rather than made appointments ahead of time, but she added that those who did stop by were placing orders.

The California Mart does not release attendance figures but the Cal Mart’s Karen Mamont said attendance was up from the June market last year.

“We were very pleased with our numbers this market,” she said, adding, “the people I talked to said they were busy and they couldn’t get a breath in.”

New Mart general manager Ethan Eller estimated traffic to be flat compared to last year’s attendance of about 700 registrants. Eller said the busiest day appeared to be Monday, adding that the building is currently polling its tenants on a possible change to a Sunday through Tuesday market schedule.

But despite the numbers, many reps and buyers said the attendance at market appeared slow.

Several buyers walking the floors at the Cal Mart said traffic seemed low, but many reported being focused on finding specific items.

“I feel like I’m the only person here,” said Sidney Duncan, buyer for W Boutique in Tucson, Ariz., on Monday.

“I’ve been here two days and both [days] have been very slow,” he said, adding that he was shopping for lines he already carries, including Trina Turk and Jill Stewart, but was also researching new lines.

“It’s a very quiet market, but I found lots of good things,” said Ellen Lundine, buyer for Contemporary Reflections in Portland, Ore., who was at market in search of novelty bottoms and sweaters.

Jolie Alpert, owner of Jolie boutique in Encino, Calif., was also very focused, making a list of designers to see, but said she was disappointed in her attempt to find what she was seeking.

“I’m finding a lot of great stuff, but I’m looking for immediate delivery on scoop-neck camouflage T-shirts—short sleeve or half sleeve—and I haven’t been able to find them. But I found some other wonderful stuff that I wasn’t looking for, which is great,” she said.

Christine Kohout, a sales rep for Cal Mart showroom Maison Ray said “It’s been a little bit slow, compared to Fall I. There were a couple of appointments from previous [accounts], but mostly walk-ins.”

Kohout said Monday was the busiest day of the market because many boutique owners opt to stay in their stores over the weekends “because that’s their busiest time.”

Erin Dolan, Maison Ray’s proprietor, agreed, adding that only a few buyers made appointments and of them, several didn’t show.

Dolan and Kohout said they were seeing more note-taking than order-writing at the show.

“People aren’t really buying that much,” Kohout said. “They’re taking notes, thinking about it and going home. The people who are buying are looking for Fall II or immediate.”

Many of the missy vendors on the third floor of the Cal Mart reported sporadic traffic, which they attributed to the fact that many retailers still had inventory on hand from last season.

“It’s a late start for retail and there’s lots of inventory, so lots of buyers are looking for off-price items,” said Jon Katz, owner of Cal Mart showroom Jon Katz & Associates, which sells Joan Walters, Gepetto and Phool, among others.

Other vendors, such as Glendale, Calif.-based Sideffects, reported sporadic traffic with most buyers looking for Fall and some immediate deliveries, but “very few Holiday bookings” said sales executive Patty Melendrez.

“Even though it’s Fall, we’re seeing more interest in colors like purple and kiwi green. The trick is not to get too bright.”

But not every rep reported a gloomy market. Reps at Cal Mart showroom Allen Allen reported their best show in two years, linking the brisk business to spicing up sportswear with studs and rhinestones, highlighted preppy looks and returning to items like leggings.

And Roni Arteaga of Cal Mart new resource XCVI Wearables, which specializes in sherpa tanks, opened several new accounts, which she attributed to showing the line in the company’s own showroom this time rather than sharing space with other lines.

Indira Batra, owner of the Indira label, reported “better than expected” results at her third-floor Cal Mart showroom.

“I’m seeing accounts become a little picky,” she said. “It’s a supply-and-demand situation, but we listen, so we have what they want.”

Batra said she was getting interest for the label’s sheer floral dresses and skirt sets. The company projects to finish the year about 10-15 percent ahead of last year, she said, noting that streamlining company management and introducing a new jacket line called Ambiance and a new bag line called Sonia B. has helped.

Barbara James, who reps Sisters sweaters in the New Mart, said she was blowing out certain categories such as dresses, but she emphasized that the cautious attitude at retail is taking its toll. She estimated her business to be down 30 percent from a year ago.

“People are cautious because they think we’re heading into a recession,” she said. “They’re afraid [with] all the negativity they’re hearing about in the news.”

Mary Haggery, a principal with New Mart-based Turtle, a new line of U.S.-made skirts, pants and separates, said business was better for high-end lines. Turtle is wholesale-priced between $85 and $160.

“There’s not as much caution at this end of the business,” she said. “People are ready to buy.”

Jeff Yontek, a sales rep with Cal Mart new resource Crave Jeans, agreed the fire is getting hotter for contemporary lines as the economy slows.

“Retailers are telling us that they don’t need another five-pocket jean in their stores, so we reacted with embellishments such as glitter, sandblasting, rhinestones,” he said. The locally produced Crave line is wholesale priced between $16 and $20 and will start its initial deliveries next month, Yontek said.

Slow but Selling at the Annex

The story was similar for designers showing at the Annex, the abridged version of the New York-based Designers & Agents show held on the New Mart’s third floor, with many reps reporting slow traffic but steady sales. “Saturday was a little slow, but for the most part, the buyers have been here and we’ve had an excellent show,” said Robyn Sidney of Miami-based R&B. “People are buying close to season, and we’re showing early Fall. They’re leaving orders and committing earlier.”

Sidney said traffic was busiest on Friday but many retailers chose to stay close to their stores over the weekend. “For the most part, the show has been great,” she said.

Maria Basandu, a rep for vintage line Ynnub, agreed, reporting that while the traffic was not at the pace she expected, the business was there.

“It’s been a little slow, but I’ve gotten some good-sized orders,” she said. “It all works out, you just have to be patient.”

Buyers at the Annex also said the show was quiet, but they were focused.

“The show is a little slow, a little quiet, but I’m finding some really cute stuff anyway,” said Juliana Beach, a buyer from San Francisco-based Joe Pye. “I’ve left quite a bit of orders for Fall—big season, big money.”

Lisa Kline, owner of Lisa Kline in Beverly Hills, Calif., said she entered the Annex prepared to place Holiday orders.

“There will be plenty for me to write,” she said. “I have appointments with people I completely buy. I just need to keep adding. It’s a light delivery because it’s Holiday.”

Michaela Vogel, a buyer for the J. Pitner Clothing Company in Fort Collins, Colo., was also focused, although she said she didn’t have great success in her search.

“It’s been a good show [but] it hasn’t been as busy as some of the other ones,” she said. “I’m looking for Holiday dresses and there’s not a lot out there, [but] I found a few and placed orders.”