Azria Does It His Way at BCBG's Fall 2001 Show
NEW YORK—Things started out fairly mellow, with Frank Sinatra’s voice wafting over the crowd waiting in Bryant Park for BCBG/Max Azria’s Fall 2001 show to begin on Feb. 12. But as the lights went up on the first model, the Chairman of the Board’s rendition of “I Did It My Way” gave way to Sid Vicious’ snarling interpretation of the classic. The musical cue was unmistakable, if not entirely accurate: Azria didn’t break with the past so much as refine it, with a grown-up, sexed-up collection.
He opened with two classic shapes: a lean camel trench followed by a slashed leather sheath—both just sly enough to keep things interesting. These were followed with paneled leather jackets, slim pants, pin-tucked chiffon tops and all the slinky, plunging evening dresses a girl could ever need.
Colorwise, the collection was heavy on seductive black, as well as moody hues such as wine and maroon. The wide-shouldered, tightly cinched suits had a cool refinement, as did an aubergine chiffon halter-top dress. The overall effect of the clothing—worn by models with white streaks in their slicked hair and spiky little booties on their feet—brought to mind the kind of tough babe who can bring home the bacon, fry it up in the pan and never let any male forget he’s a man. In other words, these are clothes for women with busy days and glamorous nights.
These days, Azria seems to be courting a more upscale customer, and she’s likely to respond to the sharp tailoring, luxury fabrics and sophisticated details. Even the accessories, which included leather obis and smart-looking train cases, had a tough, chic look. More problematic were the leather and lace evening dresses with Stevie Nicks overtones, and the Lurex suits, which looked too jokey to work off the runway.
