2001 in Review
The year 2001 has already been tagged as infamous after the tragic events of Sept. 11. The terrorist attacks and the subsequent military action in Afghanistan were about as far removed from the business of fashion as possible, and yet repercussions of the events were felt in the apparel and textile industries as a weakened economy took a nosedive in the fourth quarter.
In light of Sept. 11, 2001 was a year of tragedy. But it was also a year of generosity, as millions of people, including many in the apparel community, gave what they could—money, clothing, supplies—to the victims.
2001 was a year of decline, as the economy and consumer confidence eroded before our eyes. But it was also a year of perseverance, as the business community looked for ways to work smarter and more efficiently. And, for some, it was a year of growth as companies merged, launched new lines, opened new stores and continued to build their businesses.
January
Military looks, including camouflage, olive and khaki shades and such details as epaulets, storm Early Summer fashion.
Fashion discovers the art of asymmetry, offering one-shoulder dresses and tops and skirts with handkerchief hems.
Holiday sales figures fall below modest expectations as major department stores including Federated and Sears and discount retailers Target and Wal-Mart revise their same-store sales estimates downward. Analysts called holiday Y2K the worst in nearly a decade.
Ace Ross, former president of One Clothing, unveils Ace Ross Studios, a line of juniors and tween apparel.
The Association of Dyers, Printers and Finishers (ATDPF) join a class-action lawsuit filed against natural gas transporters in a bid to halt escalating energy rate hikes that threaten to shut down many of the organization’s members.
Traffic is slow at Los Angeles market week, although there are bright spots, including the contemporary lines exhibiting in Designers & Agents.
The mood is “too mellow” at Surf Expo in Orlando, Fla., as buyers fill in late orders for Spring 2001.
XOXO relaunches its girls’ line in a flurry of licensing agreements that include girls’ swim, shoes and outerwear.
Kik Wear reintroduces its Greed Girl juniors collection after a yearlong hiatus.
BCBG Max Azria launches an intimates line designed by Azria’s daughter Joyce.
Quiksilver enters the world of golf with Fidra, a line of golf apparel created in partnership with John Ashworth, formerly with Carlsbad, Calif.-based golf manufacturer Ashworth Inc. February
Rhinestone cowboy looks take center stage in fashion as designers and buyers fall for denim, fringe and Western motifs for Summer.
The California Mart postpones its Designer of the Year awards, which are tentatively scheduled for April. The awards have been on hiatus since October 1999.
The California Assembly passes a measure allowing the Department of Water Resources (DWR) to sell electrical power to local, publicly owned electrical utility companies at rates no higher than DWR’s acquisition costs.
Buyer attendance is up but exhibitors say the energy is down at the Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo in Long Beach, Calif. This season, organizers limit the number of guest passes at the show in a bid to make sure the attendees include “less kids and more buyers.”
The West Coast Collective menswear show, held at the W Hotel in Los Angeles, continues its mission to offer an alternative to MAGIC International. The 3-year-old show features upscale men’s lines tailored to boutique buyers.
Exhibitors at MAGIC International report good, if not stellar, business at the Feb. 13–16 run in Las Vegas. The slowing economy weighs on everyone’s minds but buyers are still buying—although many reps report lead times are getting shorter.
The Womenswear in Nevada (WWIN) show, held concurrently with MAGIC, draws brisk traffic from buyers looking for missy and plus-sized lines.
L.A. Dye & Printworks closes its doors in the face of mounting natural gas rate prices. The closure of the large player draws industry speculation that more printers and dyehouses will close unless energy prices fall. March
Paul Frank Industries continues to expand with a retail store in San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury district and more stores planned for Los Angeles and London.
Los Angeles-based law firm Reinis & Reinis closes its doors after 20 years as Richard Reinis joins local law firm Buchalter, Nemer, Fields and Younger.
Garment Industry Laundry shutters its Anaheim, Calif., facility ACCW in the face of skyrocketing prices for natural gas.
Reps are pleased with the turnout at the second Urban Suburban menswear show at the Cal Mart. The show features 46 urban menswear lines, including Mecca, PNB, Phat Farm and Rocawear.
Modern Amusement opens a boutique on Third Street in Los Angeles. The Costa Mesa, Calif.-based menswear manufacturer has stores in Costa Mesa, Honolulu, Tokyo and Osaka, Japan.
Tyco International acquires CIT Group for $9.2 billion in a stock-for-stock exchange, creating the largest factoring firm in the country. April
Suits are a designer favorite for Fall, with offerings ranging from stretch wool and pinstripes to velveteen and leather.
Orange County, Calif., retailer the Closet opens a new contemporary store in Costa Mesa, Calif., called the Closet Ltd.
Los Angeles is host to a dozen fashion shows from such designers as Alicia Lawhon, Rojas, Magda Berliner, Michelle Mason, Cornell Collins, Eduardo Lucero and Jared Gold.
Santa Monica, Calif.-based retailer Sara opens its third Southern California store in Newport Beach.
Designer Kevan Hall opens a design studio in Los Angeles. The move is a homecoming for Hall, who attended the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles before heading to New York, where he headed such design houses as Halston and Anne Klein.
Fall I market draws fewer buyers than expected, but reps report “quality” orders being placed.
Sharon Tate leaves Los Angeles Trade-Technical College after nearly 20 years over a dispute concerning class schedules. Tate is transferred to East Los Angeles College.
Designers & Agents, the New York-based contemporary trade show held at the New Mart, hosts an opening-day panel discussion featuring representatives from American Rag, Traffic and Fred Segal Flair.
JNCO relaunches its juniors line under the name C.85. Charlie Amzallag, former designer of Jane Doe, is set to design the new line.
Tarrant Apparel Group agrees to purchase a sewing facility in Ajalpan, Mexico, completing the company’s shift to vertical production. Tarrant also owns denim and twill mills and a garment processing facility in Mexico.
Maurice “Corky” Newman enters a guilty plea to three counts of conspiracy and securities fraud concerning financial statements made about Sirena Apparel Group when he was chief executive officer of the swimwear company.
SunTrust Bank Receivables Capital Management opens a Los Angeles office.
Los Angeles-based Miken Clothing purchases Santa Ana, Calif.-based Hana in a bid that diversifies Miken’s distribution to department stores including Sears and J.C. Penney.
Atlanta-based Surf Expo announces plans to host a back-to-school show March 11–12 at the Anaheim Convention Center in Southern California.
Textile reps report sporadic traffic from very focused buyers at the April 23–25 run of the Los Angeles International Textile Show at the Cal Mart.
Manufacturers cautiously investigate new technology at the Sewn Products Expo at the Los Angeles Convention Center.
Richard A. Gerhart pleads guilty to counts of conspiracy, securities fraud, making false statements to the Securities and Exchange Commission, falsifying books and circumventing accounting controls when he was chief financial officer of Sirena Apparel Group.
New York-based Nautica Enterprises purchases Los Angeles contemporary denim line Earl Jeans for $45 million and 1.1 million shares of stock.
Mark Weinstein, president of MJW Investments, announces plans to develop 78,000 square feet of retail and residential space near the Cal Mart called Santee Court.
DuPont Lycra hosts a showing of Randolph Duke designs at a star-studded event at the Beverly Hills, Calif., estate of the late Tony Duquette.
Richard Tyler previews his Fall 2001 collection paired with Sotheby’s jewelry at a fashion show at the auction house in Beverly Hills, Calif.
May
Menswear details are key for contemporary designers for Fall. Men’s suiting fabrics, ties and tailored jackets are all part of the look.
Hot Topic launches plus-size teen concept stores called Torrid. The City of Industry, Calif., retailer plans six stores nationwide, with a wider rollout planned in coming years.
Bella Dahl founders Jeffrey and Kym Lubell join Azteca Production International to form a new contemporary denim label called Hippie Jeans.
Contemporary designers John Cherpas and Kellie Delkeskamp merge with Calabasas, Calif.-based missy manufacturer John Paul Richard. Cherpas and Delkeskamp are the designers of the Fever Jeans, Josephine Loka and John Cherpas labels.
Los Angeles-based CAD/CAM company Tukatech introduces its Tukacenter concept in downtown Los Angeles. Tukacenters, modeled after Kinko’s Copies retailers, allow designers and pattern makers to rent time on Tukatech equipment and plot and print markers in the centers.
Femme debuts in New York. Organized by MAGIC International, the show formed following the cancellation of the International Boutique and Style Industries shows. Exhibitors report good ambiance and steady traffic at the show.
Anaheim Mills Corp. shutters in the wake of escalating natural gas prices.
GMAC files suit against Levine Leichtman and Chorus Line, claiming that the partnership defrauded GMAC on a $40 million loan.
BCBG halts production on its menswear line with plans to relaunch at a later date.
Cal Mart owner Hertz Investment Corp. purchases the Union Bank Plaza in downtown Los Angeles for $89 million. The deal brings the Hertz portfolio to 4.5 million square feet.
Los Angeles-based Koos Manufacturing forms a partnership deal with Adriano Goldschmied for a new denim line called AG/Adriano Goldschmied.
Westland Industries shutters its Western Dye House, citing exorbitant natural gas prices.
The New Mart announces plans to renovate its third floor to open up 25 percent to 35 percent more exhibition space. The third floor currently houses the Designers & Agents and D&A Annex shows five times a year.
Gardena, Calif.-based Koam Knitech announces that plans are underway to open a sweater facility in Guatemala to take advantage of the trade benefits of the Caribbean Basin Initiative. June
Black is back for Fall/Holiday 2001 as designers return to the color.
Los Angeles-based juniors manufacturer Tyte moves most of its production offshore to Mexico and China.
Sales reps report buyers placing orders for key items despite slow traffic overall at Fall II/Holiday market in Los Angeles.
A group of South African manufacturers and contractors hold a trade show looking for California business during Los Angeles market week.
Warnaco Group files for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. The New York-based company is parent to California labels ABS by Allen Schwartz, Speedo and Cole of California.
Jonathan Martin and Hype owner Uri Harkham form a joint venture with Swat/Fame. Under the partnership, Los Angeles-based Swat/Fame is to produce Jonathan Martin apparel.
Sun Valley, Calif.-based manufacturer Jolna Design Group files a lawsuit against former employees Jeff and Kym Lubell and their new partner company Azteca Production International. The suit claims the Lubells stole trade secrets and competed unfairly when it launched new denim line Hippie Jeans with Azteca.
Los Angeles retailer B. Curious moves to a new, larger location on Third Street. The 1,200-square-foot store carries menswear, shoes, baby clothes and housewares in addition to the retailer’s contemporary offerings. July
Accessories take on an opulent look as designers turn out pearls, cameos and crosses in antiqued gold.
The Cal Mart and New Mart shift Fall 2002 market dates to April 12–16 to avoid conflict with the Easter and Passover holidays and Dallas market week.
The price of natural gas decreases, but local dyers and finishers find they are still struggling with energy prices after finding themselves locked into long-term contracts at higher prices.
Los Angeles boutique Emma Gold hosts a fashion showing of three up-and-coming designers: Koi, Josh & He Yang and Rebecca Rich.
Los Angeles-based missy manufacturer City Girl by Nancy Bolen launches a contemporary missy line called Ruby Cho under the design direction of Gracie Cho.
Immigrant workers march in front of Gov. Gray Davis’ Los Angeles office demanding the scheduling of a hearing on labor law enforcement.
Contemporary boutique Erica Dee bows in Corona Del Mar, Calif. The 1,500-square-foot store carries such labels as Seven, True Couture, Michael Stars and Diane von Furstenberg.
Windsor Fashions and Arden B. open downtown Los Angeles buying offices in the Cal Mart and Cooper Building, respectively.
Maurice “Corky” Newman is sentenced to probation and six months confinement in a halfway house following his guilty plea on the count of securities fraud while he was CEO of the Sirena Apparel Group.
Suburban founder John Bernard launches new lines Exothermic and 5 Crown.
An informal group of fashion industry executives joins to explore the possibility of organizing a formal Los Angeles Fashion Week.August
Designers update classic lace with a modern edge for Holiday.
Lab founder Shaeen Sadeghi signs Billabong and Adventure 16 to his 40,000-square-foot retail development called the Camp in Costa Mesa, Calif.
Garment workers and contractors present their respective cases before a joint meeting of the Labor Committee and Budget Subcommittee of the California Assembly in Los Angeles.
Hertz Investment, parent company of the Cal Mart, signs a deal with three entities to bring gift tenants to the Mart. The deal between Hertz and the Dallas Market Center, George Little Management and DMG World Media Mart effectively brings the Cal Mart to full capacity.
The Cal Mart hosts a job fair in its Fashion Theater with the help of Dress-4-Success, Mervyn’s Community Closet and General Relief Opportunities for Work. The partnership, called LA Connection: People Helping People, draws more than 300 applicants who network among the 30 employers present.
The National Jewish Medical and Research Center honors Moss Adams’ Rob Greenspan and Macy’s West’s Jacque Hall at a gala event in Beverly Hills, Calif.
Extravagant, elegant and over-the-top theatrical fashions are part of the look for Holiday 2001.
Los Angeles menswear show West Coast Collective plans a Las Vegas addition coinciding with MAGIC International in February 2002. The news comes during the Aug. 5–7 run of the 3-year-old upscale men’s show at the W Hotel in Los Angeles. The West Coast Collective also hosts a menswear fashion show featuring such labels as Jhane Barnes, Joseph Abboud, Wendell Williams and Ralph Lauren at the Napa Valley Grill in the Westwood section of Los Angeles.
Grey Ant designer Grant Krajecki launches a new contemporary collection called Treat Me Right.
Fashion Technology by Design bows at the Cal Mart, drawing about 300 designers, importers and educators to survey the offerings of about 20 design-based technology companies. The trade show is sponsored by the California Fashion Association and the California Technology, Trade and Commerce Agency and funded by a grant from Long Beach City College.
Traffic remains slow but reps report focused buyers writing key orders at the Aug. 10–14 run of Los Angeles market week.
Sirena Apparel Group begins the sale of its labels in anticipation of dissolving the company. New York-based A.H. Schreiber Co. purchases the Sirena trademark from Foothill Capital, the majority shareholder of the swim label.
Streetwear and alternative designers “keep it real” as they prepare for MAGIC International with “garage gear” and neo-punk styles for Spring.
Los Angeles-based 4WhatItsWorth, maker of Tyte junior apparel, launches a line of missy denim under the label Beau Dawson.
DuPont Lycra sponsors the California Summer Countdown, a music, fashion and entertainment show on the Fox Family Channel. In a segment titled Lycra Fashion Four, the fiber manufacturer highlights brands that use its fiber, including Levi’s, Bisou Bisou, Coolwear, Esprit and Roxy.
Juniors fashion takes on a playful tone with knee-length skirts, off-the-shoulder tops and whiskered and washed denim styles.
BC Ethic founder Jeff Shafer joins Carpinteria, Calif.-based Solitude, the surf-inspired sportswear line founded by pro surfer Shawn Tomson and his wife, Carla. September
Designers put a sexy spin on sweatsuits for the Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo in San Diego.
Caution is the watchword at MAGIC International, held Aug. 27–30 in Las Vegas, as manufacturers keep expectations conservative and buyers place orders carefully.
Los Angeles urban designer Karl Kani launches a new denim-driven line for men and women called Life.
Los Angeles-based e-commerce company e-style, which runs the babystyle.com and kidsstyle.com Web sites, launches a maternity line for Bloomingdale’s.
Los Angeles-based juniors manufacturer I.L.U. launches a missy sportswear division called Infusion by I.L.U.
Teen retailer Wet Seal partners with WB Network’s “Popstars” program to create a line of clothing called the Popstars Collection, inspired by the TV series.
Executives are stranded and business comes to a standstill when terrorists hijack airplanes to attack the World Trade Center in New York and the Pentagon in Washington, D.C. The attacks come as many West Coast executives are attending New York Fashion Week and the Material World textile trade show in Miami.
Skate is the category favorite at the Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo in San Diego as 50 new exhibitors join the show. About 19,000 attendees turn out to check out the latest in skate and surf gear.
Maxine Swim Group purchases the Liz Claiborne license and Apparel Ventures picks up production facilities in Los Angeles and Mexico and equipment from Sirena Apparel Group, which prepares to sell its remaining assets at auction.
Jeff and Kym Lubell file a countersuit against former employer Jolna Design Group to regain ownership and prior profits from the Bella Dahl and Jefri Jeans labels. The Lubells founded the two labels prior to joining Jolna but left the company after a few months to launch a new label with Azteca Production International.
Several Los Angeles companies plan to assist in the New York relief efforts by collecting funds and hosting charity sample sales. Among them are Hot Kiss, Space Girlz, reps from Janette Lisner, Tessuto, Erin Evans and KLA in the Cal Mart and New Mart and Haute Press.
Los Angeles designers BCBG Max Azria, Cornell Collins, Jared Gold and Alicia Lawhon are among the few designers who are able to stage their New York Fashion Week shows prior to the terrorist attack in New York.
Paseo Colorado opens in Pasadena, Calif. The 565,000-square-foot open-air project is designed by TrizecHahn Development Corp.
DuPont, Levi Strauss & Co., Guess, the Gap and Sara Lee Corp. are among the apparel giants to donate supplies and funds to the relief efforts in New York and Washington, D.C.
Teen retailer Forever 21 announces it is investigating charges that it hired contractors that violated labor laws in the payment of its workers. The Asian Pacific American Legal Center filed suit against the retailer, charging overtime and minimum wage violations.
The West Coast Fashion Summit highlights designers Meoshe, Ahneva Ahneva and Kenneth Mack at the Los Angeles Convention Center. The event is part of the Los Angeles Black Business Expo. October
Reps report slow traffic at the third installment of the Urban Suburban menswear show at the Cal Mart.
The Textile Association of Los Angeles issues a call to action to its members and accounts to encourage apparel production in Los Angeles.
The Garment Contractors Association retains an attorney to contest the labor commissioner’s proposed regulations stemming from legislation that would extend liability for labor law violations throughout the apparel industry supply chain.
Buyer traffic suffers at the Spring Junior/Contemporary market in Los Angeles as some retailers cancel trips to the West Coast, but reps report that those who come to market place cautious orders.
The ripple effect of the national crisis stemming from the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks is felt at the ISAM (International Swimwear and Activewear Market) show at the Cal Mart, where buyers and reps consider the show’s possible move to Santa Monica, Calif.
Freddi Rojas, designer of the Rojas label, joins young men’s and young contemporary label Private Circle.
Ilse Metchek, executive director of the California Fashion Association, is honored by the Fashion Industries Guild of Cedars-Sinai Medical Center at a gala in Beverly Hills, Calif. Metchek gives a rousing speech honoring the many women who helped build California’s fashion industry.
Directives West, Barbara Fields Buying Office and ISAM host fashion shows during the Spring Junior/Contemporary market in Los Angeles.
Nike opens its new concept store Nikegoddess at Fashion Island in Newport Beach, Calif.
Textile buyer turnout is good but falls below expectations at the Los Angeles International Textile Show at the Cal Mart. The show marks the debut of the French Pavilion, a collection of representatives from French textile mills.
ISAM announces plans to move to the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium following a 43–11 vote in favor of moving by ISAM’s board of directors. November
Designers return to full skirts for Spring with offerings that are pleated, ruffled and flared.
Frontier fashions bow for Spring, as designers offer romantic looks with prairie touches.
Burberry opens a Beverly Hills, Calif., store with a celebrity-studded event.
Robinsons-May announces plans to open a 140,000-square-foot store at the Irvine Spectrum Center in Irvine, Calif.
Santa Barbara, Calif.-based young men’s and juniors line Porn Star enters a partnership with Jasco Apparel.
Business is brisk despite national concerns at Spring market week in Los Angeles.
Armani Collezioni bows at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif.
The California Fashion Association helps secure more than $1.2 million in funds for the promotion of exporting California apparel lines. The funds include a $400,000 award from the U.S. Department of Commerce.
New retail development Hollywood & Highland bows with 645,000 square feet of space for more than 70 retailers. The $615 million project was developed by TrizecHahn Corp.
Designer Suzanne Bjontegard opens three Suzi B. stores in San Diego.
Gen Art’s Fresh Faces in Fashion opens Los Angeles Fashion Week, spotlighting Eisbar, O Maillots de Bains, Corey Lynn Calter, Development, Josh & He Yang, Rami Kashou, MartinMartin, Shawn, Tres Flores, Pant Mfg., Monika and Hand Maid.
Automaker Audi sponsors six designers’ shows during Los Angeles Fashion Week, including Eduardo Lucero, David Cardona, Cornell Collins, Jared Gold, Tree and Petro Zillia.
Designer Michelle Montano organizes the New Arrivals show at downtown Los Angeles arts space the Lab. Gladys & Jeanell, Cotton Candy, People’s Couture and Art of Wear join Montano on the runway.
The Dallas Market Center and the Cal Mart host a town hall meeting with tenants to discuss renovation plans for the Mart.
B. Clothing founder Sean Knight leaves his label. B. Clothing was launched in 2000 in partnership with Bisou Bisou. Marc Bohbot, Bisou Bisou owner, says the company is looking for new financing for B. Clothing.
Ina Celaya and Grey Ant are among the many designers who host fashion shows during Los Angeles Fashion Week. Los Angeles couture designer David Hayes teams with French designer Lloyd Klein for a runway show at Cicada restaurant in downtown Los Angeles. Grey Ant designer Grant Krajecki debuts his new line Treat Me Right as part of a fundraiser hosted by Cal Mart showroom Ben-Amun’s Fabulous. The Fierce and the Fabulous show also features S.O.B. by Susan Bessire and Heatherette and raises funds for the Twin Towers Orphans Fund.
The Coalition of Los Angeles Designers closes Los Angeles Fashion Week with a party and fashion photo shoot featuring Coco Klics, Eisbar, Hipster G., Nikolaki, Rojas, St. Vincent and Mrs. Weir, Standard + Riche, Talking to Angels, TEN:02 and Ynnub.
Clubwear designers take athletic influences and give them a punk edge for Spring.
Warnaco announces plans to sell ABS by Allen Schwartz but retain swim labels under the Authentic Fitness umbrella as the manufacturing giant reorganizes under Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. The news comes on the heels of an announcement that company chairman and CEO Linda Wachner had resigned.
Westfield Shoppingtown Promenade opens in Woodland Hills, Calif. The 600,000-square-foot center is anchored by Macy’s and a 16-screen AMC Theatre.
PAD System Technologies hosts a fashion show fundraiser to assist pattern makers affected by the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks. The show features designs by Lip Service, Bebe, Self Esteem and William B. December
Textile dyers, printers and finishers hope to be able to renegotiate natural gas contracts as energy giant Enron files for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. Many are locked into long-term contracts struck early in the year when natural gas prices were rapidly escalating. Natural gas prices have decreased substantially but firms are still shutting down. Recent closures include Heng Sang.
Windsor Fashions hosts a prom preview at the Los Angeles retailer’s annual holiday party at the House of Blues in West Hollywood.
Factors, bankers and manufacturers discuss strategies for dealing with the current economic crisis at the Apparel Summit organized by the California Fashion Association.
Lucky Brand Dungarees hosts its annual black tie and blue jeans gala to raise funds for children’s charities. The event features performances by Jay Leno, Jackson Browne and David Crosby. In Memoriam
Feizollah Neman, chairman and co-founder of Los Angeles-based textile trading company Neman Brothers and Associates.
Ben Kluger, founder of Ben Kluger Trimming Co.—later sold to Freudenberg Nonwovens USA and renamed Pellon Sales-West—and co-founder of the Downtown Property Owners Association.
Charlie Rose, veteran sales rep for such labels as Rudi Gernreich, Pucci Knits and Oscar de la Renta. Sidney Liroff, sales executive and founder of swim label Beach Mates.
Bob Berg, textile executive and former executive director of the Textile Association of Los Angeles.
Court Overin, show director of the Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo.
Steve Brownstein, Los Angeles textile executive and member of the Textile Association of Los Angeles.
Harriet Berger, textile executive and co-owner of the Print Works converter.
